Any help will be appreciated

[UnderHisGrace]

Ok I bought the SS around December, its a 2000 automatic, it had lt,
hypertech, and fresh tranny, I did remove the maf screens and widen the
air inlet to the intake. It was running rich when i got it then out went the o2
changed that, figured that was my problem the whole time but its still running
rich. Any ideas i want to mod it but Id like to get it running good. And should I get it tuned now with these little mods and is the lid and bellow a good investment?

[tblu92]

Taking out the screens usually makes your fuel trims way off--Can cause shifting problems--surging with an A4 as well--I would put the screens back in--The Stock MAF with screens is good for 500 HP so there is no reason to take it out--You can cailibrate one after taking it out--but it takes hours and hours or data-logging and table tweaking to get it right--The end result is still only 2-3 HP at best--Not worth the trouble or effort---

[UnderHisGrace]

Thanks tblu92, so throw the screens back in and see if that helps. Any others got any suggestions, im a newb to the ls1, and if i cant locate the screens just pick some up from a junkyard huh. I also have a 150 shot but wanna get it lined out first of course, any mod suggestions? suspension?

[tblu92]

Hi--- You said it was running rich---Is it rich at part throttle (closed loop) or is it rich at WOT (open loop) or both ? How did you figure out it is running rich? did you check it with a data logger or scan tool ?--At some point it would be best to get a real tune---Don't waste your money or time with a hanndheld tuner--They do not address all the tables that need changing--especially with an A4--Wait til you can see a tuner with HP Tuners or EFILIVE----If you have a scanner or logger --I would 1st check your fuel trims--try to see what they are at part throttle thoughout the entire PT range---They need to be at "0" or sligtly negative---It will take a tuner to correct them if they are off---Next have him set the WOT AFR--for the street with a wideband I would stay around 12.6-1-- without a wideband stay around .900 millivolts--Make sure the LTFT's are 0 at WOT----Check for spark retard--- occasional 1-2 * at most is OK --0 is best--- OH yeah-set the Hypertech back to stock and sell it on E-B**Y
It may take 50-100 miles for your LTFT's to learn out once you put the screen back--You can find the ends W/screen at a junk yard--if yours is lost-
Best bolt on mods are LT headers--LS6 intake manifold--cold air intake--Cat back exhaust--wires--stall converter---gears--
Useless mods (IMO) TB spacer--timing tricker-TB bypass-coils-shorty hdrs

Good luck !!