When will my 10 bolt break?
This is a discussion on When will my 10 bolt break? within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Here's an answer for super-frequently asked questions. When will my 10 bolt break? Unfortunately, there is no 'set' horsepower where ...
04-14-2006, 07:10 AM #1
When will my 10 bolt break?
Here's an answer for super-frequently asked questions.
When will my 10 bolt break?
Unfortunately, there is no 'set' horsepower where the 10 bolt will give out. It can break on stock power, at 350hp, 400hp, even 500hp+ for some lucky ones.
Because you cannot gauge exactly when it will break, it is important to think ahead a little bit, and take some steps to preserving your 10 bolt if a 12 bolt is not in your immediate plans.
1. If you are going to be drag racing frequently and plan on running very sticky drag radials, you might want to think about getting to know someone who has a truck & trailer, just in case.
2. If you have an automatic car, you have a better chance of a longer-lasting rear end, due to less shock in the drivetrain. This does not mean it will never break - it'll just last longer.
3. Cars that come equipped with Torsen (mechanical) differentials tend to have more problems than Auburn (clutched) differentials. You can see which differential you have at your next rear-end fluid changing interval. If you have a torsen rear end, you will see gears inside of the differential, and there will be a steel block pushing your axles out. If you have an Auburn differential, you will see bright yellow springs inside of it.
3a. The torsens seem to wear out quicker whether you race or not. Tell-tale signs of a fading torsen are ratcheting/clunking noises when turning/low speeds/etc. If your torsen does break, you can replace it with another, or pick up an aftermarket carrier.
Preserving your 10-bolt:
1. Eliminate wheel hop. Suspension is very important - what good is a lot of power if you cannot channel it to the ground effectively? Wheel hop breaks rear ends. To minimize wheel hop consider stiffening your suspension. Aftermarket lower control arms, relocation brackets, panhard bars, even torque arms will help plant your rear to the ground.
2. Maintain your differential. Always keep an eye on the fluid. Fluid seeping from the pinion seal is normal on these cars, but if it begins to drip onto the floor have it replaced.
3. If your rear end makes a considerable amount of noise, or you have had gears installed and the noise continually gets worse, consider having the car looked at. Failure of individual parts can trigger others to fail as well, so try and fix the problem before it gets any worse.
How do I beef up my 10 bolt?
It seems like too easy of an answer, but it holds true. The 10 bolt will always be limited by the fact that it is simply smaller than a 12 bolt, 9 inch, or Dana 60. Smaller = weaker.
Besides replacing the ring & pinion and bearings, adding aftermarket parts such as stronger axles only seems to be a waste of money. The minute you fix one thing, another will break. Rear end installs can be costly if you are not doing the labor yourself - it adds up quick. Don't be the guy who says he can't afford a 12 bolt, but has spent $1500 dumping money into his 10 bolt.
04-28-2006, 02:04 PM #2
- Join Date
- Apr 2006
- Atlanta, GA
- 2001 TransAm WS6
Are rear ends covered by aftermarket warranties? I know that the clutch isn't; so is a rear-end considered "wear and tear" item?
05-03-2006, 05:08 AM #3
All aftermarket warranty companies are different, so you would have to check with them about it.
07-19-2006, 08:12 AM #4
I like the very first suggestion.. "1. If you are going to be drag racing frequently and plan on running very sticky drag radials, you might want to think about getting to know someone who has a truck & trailer, just in case."
08-02-2006, 11:41 AM #5
- Join Date
- Jun 2006
- bay area california
black on black on black
- 02 z28
No Way Gm Wont Cover The Warranty On Your Rearend There Asses About The Rearends,unless Stock Like F1 Tires And Your Original Size Wheels Are On It.and Not Bald..also They Can Check Your Computer For Your Last Rpm Shifts So They Can Usually Tell You Beat It Up ,and They Will Do Anything To Make You Look At Fault...iv Been There But If Its Bone Stock And Making Noises But Still Driveable Mabey And Thats A Mabey...and Once 1 Dealership Denies You Then The Rest Will Be Notified...and If You Brought It To The Dealership To Get It Checked And They Denie You Be Prepared To Pay For Inspection And Reassembly...assholes They Are..and We Pay Extra For Nothing
08-03-2006, 09:39 AM #6
i went to the track several times this year and usually i will see another auto with a stall, the two cars that i saw both had problems with there rear ends making noise and clunking that night, that is why i am going to wait to get a 12 bolt the a converter. cause i do like to drag race a lot
sorry if this has been asked before but what parts exactly brake in the diff on the 10 bolt, and.........
should i get a stall with a 12 bolt 3.73 gear, am planning on widder tires and suspesion upgrades,
03-02-2007, 01:33 PM #7
First rear i broke i cracked the spyder gears, replaced it with a Auburn differential which worked fine for a year or so. Then it started grinding and moaning after heating up never could figure out what went wrong with it though. riped it out and put a 12-bolt in
03-18-2007, 04:23 PM #8
10 bolt -12 bolt? are yall talking about the cover bolt # or ring gear bolt#'s?
i know it sounds like a dumn question ..... but the only dumn one is the one you don't ask.
03-21-2007, 12:54 PM #9
04-13-2007, 08:58 AM #10
What vehicles do 12-bolts come out of? How about 9"s
Are they a bolt in application, or do you have to weld on all the mount brackets? I imagine a hybrid U-joint will be needed? Brakes lines are same fitting at the flex hose?
04-13-2007, 09:06 AM #11
12 bolt axles generally OEM'd from truck applications. 9" axles are Ford housings, which also came in trucks mostly and some older model heavier vehicles.
Modifications to both axles are required to install them into an f-body! You can't just go to the junkyard and buy a 9" or a 12 bolt just to take them home and bolt it up. You can however send it off to Currie Enterprises or Moser to have the axle modified to fit into your car (brackets, etc). They'll also be able to help with carriers, gear sets, axles, yokes to fit your driveshaft's u-joint size, etc.
04-13-2007, 09:15 AM #12
I'll build up my own axle...was just wondering what I had in store for me. Thanks for the info!
If these axles come out of full size trucks, I imagine they have to be narrowed several inches...huh!
What's the consensus on strength. 12-bolt or 9"?
04-13-2007, 09:23 AM #13
IMO - 9" is the way to go due to its ease of service and selection of carrier housings readily available from pretty much any axle manufacturer. Basically, it comes down to preference.
Last edited by Eagle; 04-13-2007 at 09:28 AM.
10-10-2007, 02:48 PM #14
10-10-2007, 02:50 PM #15
But i agree with eagle as well. The 9in. unit is very tuff, and easy to work on.
10-10-2007, 02:57 PM #16
the 12 bolt is GREAT for 4 LINK applications, make no mistake though a 12 bolt is a hugh improvement over the stock 7.5" 10 bolt. but the location of the TQ arm bracket is the issue with the 12 bolt thats where the problems occure. the 9" is tride and true for the F-body best rear out there IMO. now you can get the lighter then the 12 bolt and for less money, they will ususlly hold anywhere from 600hp-past 1,000hp depending on the application. the S-60 IMO is WAY to much overkill, and again the TQ arm placement on those are having issues with warping the ring gear.
10-10-2007, 02:59 PM #17
on a second note the 8.5" 10 bolts hold up under a lot of HP, and have seen sub 8 second passes several times over. that is another way to get a great rear for a lot less price if your willing to take the time and have it narrowed.
10-10-2007, 03:01 PM #18
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
Am I the only one who is glad as hell GM put the money into the engine and not the differential? I would much rather spend $2k on a differential than spend ~$2k on the engine to get ~300 RWHP.
10-10-2007, 03:02 PM #19
i wish GM would of given the option to purchase a 12 bolt when the cars where new. that would of made much more sense.
11-05-2007, 08:10 PM #20
Dana 60 made by Strange FTW! if you wanna a track setup, get that, it comes in complete assembled set with upgarded gears. about $2500 shipped.
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