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Vibration at 55mph+ everything has been tried

This is a discussion on Vibration at 55mph+ everything has been tried within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; 2001 camaro m6, full suspension rear suspension, full bolt-on, cam, Strange Dana S60 w/eaton truetrac here is the issue: its ...

  1. #1
    used and abused at wot ibanez7's Avatar
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    Vibration at 55mph+ everything has been tried

    2001 camaro m6, full suspension rear suspension, full bolt-on, cam, Strange Dana S60 w/eaton truetrac

    here is the issue:
    its been 3-4 yrs, 10xxx miles and a handful of autoX and dragraces (except in the last 8 months) since the dana S60 install.
    however in the past 2 months my camaro has decided to start vibrating at 55mph+
    -center console shakes to all hell
    -floorboards shake
    -seats shake more then any good massage

    -steering wheel and brakes DO NOT shake!

    Because of the vibration I never took the car over 75mph trying to diagnose it, except one day I said screw it, took it up to 125mph and this is what I noticed:
    (the noise from the vibration and vibration did get worse as expected, but new variables appeared)
    -clunk,clunk, clunk, clunk noise from the rearend area appeared. (sounded kind of rotational but could have been the TA hitting the floor)
    -noise and vibration goes away when i tap the brakes, come back when I release the brakes
    -noise and vibration still there, when I press the clutch or drop the t56 into the neutral gate.

    at 75mph hitting the brakes I never noticed the vibration or noise go away, because the car slowed down below 55 to fast, but tapping the brakes or even holding them to slow down from 120mph most of the vibration and noise associated with it went away.
    Once I released the brakes and still above 100mph, the sounds and noise returned.

    things that have been checked:
    -tire and wheel balance, out of round, alignment, bent wheel, etc = good
    -brake rotor parallelism = good
    -1350 ujoints/driveshaft balance = good
    -transmount = good
    -wheel bearings front and rear = good
    -brake calipers = good
    -S60 axles = good
    -pinion angle = -2.5 = good been running that since installed
    -metal flakes or shavings in rearend = clean as new
    -never hit a curb or pothole.


    This vibration has me lost. I checked everything that typically causes a vibration and all is good. Plus this came out of nowhere, yet goes away when I tap or hold the brakes at a high enough speed. I was thinking it could be the EATON True Trac but damn that diff. does not clutches or typical wearable parts like many diffs do.

    Strange is willing to work with me on this, however I do not live close to Strange in IL anymore, so its a PITA to ship this stuff back and fourth.
    I will be talking to Eaton this week.

    Any ideas?!?!? not sure what is worse vibration or electrical issue hunting!

  2. #2
    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    I have the exact same problem I have a 2000 with 42000miles and after my 3:73's the vibration got even worse from my 2"73's All new bearings etc in the rear new tranny , balanced drived shaft bought new rims and tires I am completely lost mine starts at 70mph plus

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    Member Supershafts's Avatar
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    So both of you have a vibe that goes away when a load is added....

    ibanez7? is the vibe there under accel load or only when that car is at cruise at those speeds, but getting to the speed is the vibe present or not ?

    Also ibanez7 what is the gear ratio in your car.

  4. #4
    That guy thearborbarber's Avatar
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    I am betting the U-joints are on the way out even though you checked them. My sub goes from nice driving to shitty vibration when the u-joints go out. The rear is first and the front is soon to follow. Mine are tight when they are twisted but when you take the drive shaft out you can feel almost a detent in the joint. It will virbrate at a speed range too. Usually between 55-65mph.

  5. #5
    Member Supershafts's Avatar
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    Shafts that run straight it is normal for them to get a detent feeling, it doesn't mean the joint is bad, resetting the joint will remove that feeling of a detent, that is very common in imps and euro shafts since many run 0 angle in them, just resetting them straightens that out in 70% of cases.

  6. #6
    Member SuperSSguy's Avatar
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    Had a buddy that had a bad shake when above 80 +in his Lt 87 SS..It was the u joints @ diff end.

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    Junior Member silver99ss's Avatar
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    Mine has been doing this for a while too. I'm going to replace my u joints tomorrow, I'll post if it fixes the probelm.

  8. #8
    What Would Earl Do? Vexzer's Avatar
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    I call - u-joints.

  9. #9
    Member SuperSSguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vexzer View Post
    I call - u-joints.
    Nice lookin ride Vexzer!

  10. #10
    Junior Member silver99ss's Avatar
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    I replaced my u joints yesterday and the rear u joint was hard to move. I put the driveshaft back in and that took care of most of the shake.

  11. #11
    Member SuperSSguy's Avatar
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    Anything yet OP? (Jason)

  12. #12
    Member DaddySS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supershafts View Post
    So both of you have a vibe that goes away when a load is added....

    ibanez7? is the vibe there under accel load or only when that car is at cruise at those speeds, but getting to the speed is the vibe present or not ?

    Also ibanez7 what is the gear ratio in your car.
    Those are good questions. I find it interesting that you say the vibration stops when you tap or hold the brakes - that's usually an indivation of an axle or wheel bearing problem. Does it also go away if you hold the ebrake up just enough to apply drag?

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    I have the same problem at 45mph, after dealer replaced my pinioin seal at 9k. Everyone said tires out of balance, ended up replacing tires and still vibrates when cruising above 45mph. The vibration goes seems to go away under load or when RPM's drop, like pushing the clutch in. I was going to upgrade clutch to Z06 and will replace u-joints. I thought I was crazy until I read this post. I learned to stay away from the dealer!

  14. #14
    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS8813 View Post
    I thought I was crazy until I read this post. I learned to stay away from the dealer!
    You can just come in here first, and go to the dealer with some knowledge.

  15. #15
    Nightmare RedFenix_68's Avatar
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    hahaha damn looks like this boat is full of all of our problems...well i also have same problem. but mine is very slight. i replaced the u-joints in front and the back and problem and noise where still there. long story short, came down to the problem as my "tie rods" were shot, also i had noise coming from tranny area...pretty sure the input shaft and the pilot bearing also have the reason for the shakes and play....cars look great but have multiple problems just running.

  16. #16
    Member Supershafts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silver99ss View Post
    I replaced my u joints yesterday and the rear u joint was hard to move. I put the driveshaft back in and that took care of most of the shake.

    You had a seizing joint which will make a vibe as it can't oscillate on that axis and goes into bind and throws the shaft forward.


    Quote Originally Posted by SS8813 View Post
    I have the same problem at 45mph, after dealer replaced my pinioin seal at 9k. Everyone said tires out of balance, ended up replacing tires and still vibrates when cruising above 45mph. The vibration goes seems to go away under load or when RPM's drop, like pushing the clutch in. I was going to upgrade clutch to Z06 and will replace u-joints. I thought I was crazy until I read this post. I learned to stay away from the dealer!
    Check your rear joint and see if they dropped the shaft and had a cap take a short trip and lose some needle bearings.


    Ibanez7 ??? have you found anything yet ?

  17. #17
    Junior Member
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    Replaced the u-joints, one seemed to be binding, problem solved!

  18. #18
    Member Supershafts's Avatar
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    Yes binding joints will make a severe vibration because it doesn't allow the joint to oscillate which then is overcome by being forced to and the shaft is kinda thrown.

  19. #19
    Junior Member nfellman's Avatar
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    Well I am glad I saw this thread! My car has been doing the same thing. Looks like Ill be replacing both u joints when I install the clutch next weekend! Thanks for all the info guys!

  20. #20
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    OP hasn't logged onto the site since October 10th. He must be staying busy over there across the pond.

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