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Upgrade path

This is a discussion on Upgrade path within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; OK so i've been reading these threads on how universally hated the OEM rears are. As a result I don't ...

  1. #1
    Chief of his tribe! LSCyaL8R's Avatar
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    Upgrade path

    OK so i've been reading these threads on how universally hated the OEM rears are. As a result I don't want to put even 1 dime into repairing or replacing parts in mine. I've had the car all of one month and change and have already started doing the base mods i'd need to support a good all round performance combo.

    I already installed KYB AGX's all around and have UMI 3 point SFC's and UMI STB on the way.

    The next step in prepping the car for a perfomance life is something that eludes me. I know that a rear is coming but how soon is anyone's guess. From reading around here and other places it seems like a lot of people like the Strange rears. so at the moment I feel like I am leaning towards a rear from them. I don't know whether I should be eying the 9inch or 12 bolt so i'll pose that as one of my questions.

    At the moment my rear seems to have a bad bearing and a leaky pinion seal. I'll probably change out the fluid to keep it humming along for now but I'm not really concerned about it blowing up on me. If it were to do that i'd just put it in the driveway and go ahead and get the rear. I'd prefer to wait till I had the cash on hand but it wouldn't kill me if I had to order sooner.

    Assuming the rear stays in one piece we have finally reached my conundrum. After the SFC's and STB are installed would I be better served buying a torque arm relocation bracket and bushing and rear LCA's or is it not worth it till I have a new rear and am making serious power. I would like the car to be as much of a corner carver as is possible with an Fbod while still throwing down decent numbers on the strip. It will likely be some time till I can afford to make that kind of power since buying a home comes first and suspension seems to be cheaper than horses.

    Finally when I do get the rear what gears would be best for autox/drag duty while still maintaining decent highway performance. I was thinking of 4.10's or 4.30's since it seems like even with 4.30's i'd be chugging along nice and low in the RPM's at the local 50-60mph flow of traffic.

    The car is NOT a DD. I have a neat lil go-kart of a Saturn SC2 for that.

    Thanks all.

  2. #2
    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Well the stock rears are ok for mild hp automatics. guys run 300 up to 500 on a stock rear with no problem ON THE STREET. track time, 6 speeds and stickey tires seem to gut these things. I see your a 6 speed so a good bet would be a 9incher for you. Watch what mods you do first cause some will not transfer over to the 9 inch or 12 bolt houseing with out all new pieces or adapters. If you plan on going to the strip soon I would save up and get the rear in the car.

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    Chief of his tribe! LSCyaL8R's Avatar
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    I've already seen the order forms that require you to specify axle... which is why I want to plan this out. I'd hate to spend twice what I could have spent once.

    Any particular advantage in a 9 inch over a 12 bolt? I had been eyeing a 12 bolt Strange with 4.30's and all the ABS nonsense pre installed. My mind is malleable on this so if there is something I don't know that will shift me to the 9 inch please enlighten me.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I have read in threads in here and on LS1tech of people blowing up the 12 bolt. Not to say that the 9" cannot be destroyed, but this is what I have read. The 9-inch locates its pinion gear lower on the ring gear to improve tooth contact. This strengthens the rearend assembly but at the cost of approximately 2 to 3 percent loss of power to drive the gears compared to a 12-bolt.

    Most people in here I believe would tell you to go with a 9" with a M6. I did with 4.11 gears and I love it.

    Also, I would suggest getting the relocation brackets and LCA's while you are at it. It makes a big difference.

    Good luck.
    It's on jackstands.

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    Chief of his tribe! LSCyaL8R's Avatar
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    wow not much in the way of power mods on that SS. basically a lid an full exhaust eh? with all the chassis and drivetrain mods what kind of ET's are you running with that car? I'm more interested in Chassis and suspension at the moment so a little insight into what can be gained would be nice.
    Magnaflow cat back, adj KYB's, 3 point SFC's, STB, LCA reloc, adj LCA's, SLP lid, Fernco bellows, Strano Springs, Drag Bags, Tick adj Master cylinder, Monster stage3 clutch, speed bleeder, Billet flywheel, MGW shifter, !CAGS

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Haha, at a good dime too! I just got all this in the past 3 months. I haven't been able to get to the track yet. I plan on it though within the next month hopefully. The car is getting the trans built/shifter/clutch right now. Also will have it DYNO tuned before the next week and a half.

    I'll definitely let you know what times I get. I can tell you that my car handles 100% better now. No more wheel hop, no more of the ass end getting squirly during power shifting. Even when I get on it in a turn the car forces itself to go straight.

    And don't worry about engine mods, haha. Those are on the way. I wanted to build everything else first though, which I believe is the right path to take. In the end, she'll have a D1SC and hopefully making somewhere in the neighborhood of 500rwhp. I need to replenish my funds for a while before that happens though.

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    Chief of his tribe! LSCyaL8R's Avatar
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    Yeah I want to get a D1SC as well but yes that is likely years away as a house comes first. and before the D1SC i want a built Texas Speed LS3..... of course by the time I can afford it I may be looking at a Gen V block with DI and VVT In all seriousness that is the next small block and that would take my head right out of supercharging and make me give a good long look at a good turbo setup.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I have read in threads in here and on LS1tech of people blowing up the 12 bolt. Not to say that the 9" cannot be destroyed, but this is what I have read. The 9-inch locates its pinion gear lower on the ring gear to improve tooth contact. This strengthens the rearend assembly but at the cost of approximately 2 to 3 percent loss of power to drive the gears compared to a 12-bolt.

    Most people in here I believe would tell you to go with a 9" with a M6. I did with 4.11 gears and I love it.

    Also, I would suggest getting the relocation brackets and LCA's while you are at it. It makes a big difference.

    Good luck.
    As he said, Most M6 guys are going to go with the 9 inch and most auto guys go with the 12 bolt.
    M6 launch at the strip causes huge shock and the 9 inch seems to take it were as the auto's don't have the drive line shock when they leave the line. If you search the forum there was a coversation about 9 inch V's 12 bolt no more than 6 months ago.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Strange 12 bolt here with M6. I launch it on slicks from 6,500+, so far so good. If I were to do it over again I'd go 9 inch for peace of mind. You'll also want to buy a chrome moly or steel drive shaft as well. I'd skip the torque arm relocation mount. I keep mine (full legnth) mounted right on the tranny, again so far so good.

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    Chief of his tribe! LSCyaL8R's Avatar
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    9 inch peace of mind eh? I hear mounting the pinion lower, as was said is the difference between the 12 bolt and 9inch, helps with running quieter as well? Could be a win win. better contact from the lower pinion and reduced driveline noise? i guess i'm suddenly seriously considering the Strange 9inch unit now. any thoughts on diff's? Auburn Torsen etc? I'm pretty sure the 4.30 range is where i'm going to end up gear wise. I rarely drive over 70mph so the rpms won't be too bad in 6th. Of course before I actually drop any coin on this i'll do all the appropriate calculations.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LSCyaL8R View Post
    9 inch peace of mind eh? I hear mounting the pinion lower, as was said is the difference between the 12 bolt and 9inch, helps with running quieter as well? Could be a win win. better contact from the lower pinion and reduced driveline noise? i guess i'm suddenly seriously considering the Strange 9inch unit now. any thoughts on diff's? Auburn Torsen etc? I'm pretty sure the 4.30 range is where i'm going to end up gear wise. I rarely drive over 70mph so the rpms won't be too bad in 6th. Of course before I actually drop any coin on this i'll do all the appropriate calculations.
    Yeah my 12 bolt makes a good bit of noise but don't think I've never read about noisy 9 inches either.. Also, I don't think Strange offers a bolt in 9 inch housing for 4th gen F bodies, just the 12 bolt and S60.

  12. #12
    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    yea check out moser for the 9inch.

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