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umi torque arm issue!

This is a discussion on umi torque arm issue! within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; first of all, im not trying to complain. i like umi. im trying to get insite on this problem. I ...

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    true savage stunna p's Avatar
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    umi torque arm issue!

    first of all, im not trying to complain. i like umi. im trying to get insite on this problem. I got a tunnel mount adj. torque arm from umi. it has 2 adjustments for the arm height on the crossmember. the lower bolt hole is suppost to be the stock arm level. and the upper bolt hole is the better one to use. well mine hits the drive shaft and floor board. kinda sucks, umi told me to use the lower setting to avoid issues. but? thats not my preference.. i wanna use the top hole. because the front end doesnt raise up when dropping the hammer. anyone had this issue??
    02 ws6,m6,umi sfc, bbk lt's,y pipe,stainless borla straight pipew/dynomax bullet,160 stat,4.10's,umi adj trq arm,k&n,sportlines,kyb agx's,98mm clear lid,all free mods,d-scrnd mass,fernco,e3 plugs,short stick,tunedbyfrost,no hood baffles,hood to air box w/adh. foam,needs a cam

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Hitting the underside is a common issue from what I gather. A lot of people have to "massage" the floor board to create clearance on tunnel mount TAs.

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    i got the same thing happening here. it's annoying as hell! guess i'm gonna have to bring out the hammer again.

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    Just ran a search and found this thread. Same issue with the top mount by the tunnel, plus I have almost no clearance between the bolt head and my PST driveshaft (3-1/2" dia.). I have the tunnel brace slid all the way to the right to clear the driveshaft, but this puts the nut almost in contact with the tunnel. I will have to use the lower hole for now and may whack the top of the brackets off.



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    modify the bolt holes in the trans cross member ,and try to slid the trans and drive shaft away from the torque arm.or put spacers between the torque arm cross member and the under body,to lower the front of the torque arm.
    Last edited by garygnu65; 02-22-2010 at 02:56 PM. Reason: more infor

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    Quote Originally Posted by garygnu65 View Post
    modify the bolt holes in the trans cross member ,and try to slid the trans and drive shaft away from the torque arm.or put spacers between the torque arm cross member and the under body,to lower the front of the torque arm.
    Actually am considering spacing the mount down by shimming it with a piece of flat stock. Probably have to go at least 3/8" to 1/2" to get into the comfort zone.

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    Member joedude02's Avatar
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    i used the lower hole and actually cut the remainder of that piece off for clearance. i also did what you were talking about with shimming the tunnel mount lower from the body, but you'll be faced with the tunnel mount cross member being very low and dragging on everything in uneven parking lots i.e. speed bumps, gas tank fill lids, etc...
    Last edited by joedude02; 02-22-2010 at 04:31 PM.

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    Member Rk ws6's Avatar
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    hahah mine just finally quit banging ... i let it work its own slot

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    Quote Originally Posted by joedude02 View Post
    i used the lower hole and actually cut the remainder of that piece off for clearance. i also did what you were talking about with shimming the tunnel mount lower from the body, but you'll be faced with the tunnel mount cross member being very low and dragging on everything in uneven parking lots i.e. speed bumps, gas tank fill lids, etc...

    I was going to take a look at it from the side to see how much ground clearance I have. Our car is not lowered so I may be ok with a set of shims.

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    mine does not hit, but i have the nuts on the driveshaft side and i think i am using the top hole but i dont remember. its still a noisy son a bitch tho over bumps. and you can hear ALL of your gear noise in the rear end hahahahaha

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    Quote Originally Posted by blue02Z View Post
    mine does not hit, but i have the nuts on the driveshaft side and i think i am using the top hole but i dont remember. its still a noisy son a bitch tho over bumps. and you can hear ALL of your gear noise in the rear end hahahahaha

    Stock driveshaft?

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    i have the spohn tunnel mount, and yeah, it makes the rear end noise much more noticable. hah. stock driveshaft here, and no contact. i did use 2 flat washers as spacers where it bolts to the tunnel. i don't have issues with it hitting the floorboard, but it does clunk from time to time. Oh and with my 9", the torque arm hits the top of the tunnel where it mounts on the rearend..but that's a whole different story!

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    I just got my 3 point subframe connectors and it shows mounting the SFC in between the floor and the tunnel mount TA crossmember. So you should be able to shim that crossmember down for more clearance if you wanted. the sfc mount flange is about 1/8" to 3/16"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    I just got my 3 point subframe connectors and it shows mounting the SFC in between the floor and the tunnel mount TA crossmember. So you should be able to shim that crossmember down for more clearance if you wanted. the sfc mount flange is about 1/8" to 3/16"
    I have 2 point SFC's that I installed last year. Looking at the tunnel brackets that are spot welded to the body I wondered about upgrading to a 3 point. There just doesn't seem to be a whole lot to them, especially on the passenger side.

    Last night, I spaced mine down about 3/8" just to check clearances. The plan now is to fab a new set of plates to mount the torque arm to the tunnel mount. I will probably drill it somewhere between the bottom and top hole positions of the UMI plates.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    So shimming the TA crossmember down 3/8 inch didn't give you the clearance you needed?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    So shimming the TA crossmember down 3/8 inch didn't give you the clearance you needed?
    Not to the point that I would feel 100% safe running it. If I had the stock driveshaft there wouldn't be any issues. I posted a pic of the setup above -- which was taken with the car on its wheels.

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