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Thinking about getting the Tick performance master cylinder

This is a discussion on Thinking about getting the Tick performance master cylinder within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I have a 99 Trans Am with a 6 speed manual and I am thinking about getting the Tick Performance ...

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    Thinking about getting the Tick performance master cylinder

    I have a 99 Trans Am with a 6 speed manual and I am thinking about getting the Tick Performance master cylinder. I have some issues that I think is related to the clutch and from what I read, this could help it. Since I have never worked with a transmission / clutch system before I wonder how hard it can be? (I have done other mechanical work so I could probably fix it with the correct instructions). I guess that all the hydralic fluid will flow out when I remove the current master cylinder and that I need to fill up and bleed the system afterwards. Is this hard to do? I guess I fill fluid into the reservoir and after that bleed it? I read that the "Mityvac bleeding system" might be a good investment. Would this make it much easier to do? Especially if I'm alone doing it?

    Thaks in advance!

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    Senior Member raynor139's Avatar
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    Tick has stated that the mityvac system does not work on their master all that well and from personal experience I can agree with that statement. We had to rebleed the system multiple times and one time I had to have the car towed since it completely locked me out every gear but first. Tick recommends a speed bleeder setup for their master cylinder. Of course it would have helped if my mechanic had listened to me and installed the speed bleeder I bought but in his "opinion" speed bleeder on gm systems suck. He no longer works on my cars.
    Mods - Lid, Skip Shift Eliminator, MGW shifter, UMI SFCs, Founders Lower Control Arms, Founders Panhard Bar, Founders Adj. Torque Arm, UMI Torque arm mount, MWC Drive shaft safety loop, KONI Yellows, Strano Springs, Strano Sway bars, UMI Upper and lower A Arms, 160 thermostat, TSP headers and TSP true duals Monster stage 2 clutch, racetronix fuel pump, Strange S60 rear axle and tune by Frost.

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    Senior Member raynor139's Avatar
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    But overall I'm seriously happy with my tick master. The pedal no longer falls to the floor after some spirited driving and once you see it next to the stock piece you will wonder how the hell that little gm master ever worked.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Tick MC with Speed Bleeder makes it easy as hell to do.

    There are a couple of things in the instructions you need to pay attention to when you go to install.

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Tick MC's are worth every penny and a little PITA to get in as the sizes are a little different a buddy helps but it can be done by yourself as I did. As far as the speed bleeder they work awesome and I used my mighty vac and had no issues. However you will need to remove the tranny to install the speed bleeder. Depending on the mileage on your clutch you may want to plan on a new LS7 clutch and Tick MC with speed bleeder that's going to rack you at $1k
    If not in your budget then Tick with manual bleeding would be a great start
    99 Trans Am, SLP Lid, Blackwing filter, smooth bellow, Ported TB, LS6 intake, Ws6 lower ram air box, OBX LT's, Magna Flow cat back, LS7 clutch, Tick MC, Hurst Shifter, Frost Tune, UMI SFC,LAC, STB, PB, Torq Arm, Super Hawk hood, Torq Thrust II, Kee Audio.
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    I don't want to remove the whole transmission since that would be a big job. Is it difficult to manually bleed the system? I have never done it on any car so don't know how it's done. I guess you open a screw on the master cylinder and pour new fluid into the reservoir while someone is pressing the clutch?

    I have the problem of the clutch sticking to the floor when driving at a high rpm. I also have to be gentle when putting the gears in from time to time. For example if I am at 4th gear and goes to neutral and back to 4th agan in a few seconds I get a grinding noise. The reverse can be hard to get in to and gives a grinding noise. If I put it in reverse I usually hold my hand on the stick and push it while I start to drive. When it starts to move I feel that the stick moves a few mm and the reverse goes in as it should. If I don't hold my hand on it, it's a 50% chans the reverse is in or I just get a grinding noise. Maybe this is an issue in the transmission...

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    High rpm rapid shifts are a common problem with the stock MC.

    Bleeding the stock system will require a couple of ppl. One to push and hold the pedal and the other to open/close bleeder screw and fill the the reservoir.

    The speed bleeder isn't to hard to install. You remove the stock bleeder nut off the slave and install the one Tick provides with the speed bleeder and then route it to where you want it. Mine comes up next to the MC.


    Remember to use DOT III brake fluid (or DOT IV). NEVER DOT V or ATF.

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    You still either have to drop tranny or unbolt it and slide it back in order to access the slave cylinder. Here is the ad right from Tick NOTE the last paragraph....
    Bleeding the late model GM hydraulic system in it's stock form is a bear. You've got to have someone pump the pedal while you're under the car cracking the bleeder and hoping everybody's timing is right - not to mention keeping the reservoir full! It's easy to see how something so simple can quickly turn into a huge ordeal.

    With our "One Man Job" Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line, Tick Performance is taking great strides in making things much easier on you. At 4'+ in length, you're able to route the line to nearly anywhere on the car you want. Here in house, we usually zip tie it to a brake line coming out of the brake master cylinder so it's easy to reach with the hood popped. Another huge improvement is our SPEEDbleeder end - allowing you to simply crack it open one time and close it once the air is out of the system, instead of having to open and close the bleeder with every pump of the pedal.

    Why hassle with your hydraulic system every time you want to bleed it? Rely on Tick Performance to make the job much easier for you with our "One Man Job" Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line. A must-install next time you've got the transmission out of your LS1 Camaro & Firebird, 97-04 Corvette & Z06 or 04-06 Pontiac GTO.
    SMWS6TA likes this.

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    I hope I don't have to bleed it to often, so I don't think I need the speed bleeder. I think I can find someone to help me. Where is the bleeder screw? On the master cylinder or somethere else?

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Here are a few articles on bleeding with a mighty vac. How to bleed a clutch with a Mity Vac
    Having Issues Bleeding Clutch!
    I used this method even know I had a speed bleeder and it worked awesome some of the pictures are no longer there but you should get the idea. My clutch bleed out with no problems what so ever. You can pick up a mighty vac on eBay for about $50 and can be used for lots of things. I just used mine to bleed my brake system after replacing all my lines and fluid.

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    Ok but if I want to get the Tick master cylinder and it doesn't work with the Mityvac (as pointed out before) I need another solution.

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    You can get the mityvac to work it just may take multiple attempts. Other route is grab a buddy and manuel bleed the setup.

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    It is really easy to bleed the clutch with the mity vac. You stick the nozzle in the fluid reservoir, in the hole at the bottom. Pump the vac 4-5 times, then go in the car and pump the clutch 4-5 times. Release the pressure on the vac, top off the reservoir, then repeat. The first few times, you will have to move the clutch pedal by hand. After that, your foot. You can see the air bubbles coming up through the vac line. It is ridiculously easy to do.

    For the master, you will want skinny arms. If you don't have skinny arms, find a friend. YOu will need a friend regardless. The master is well under the brake booster. You don't need to remove the tranny, or anything else. You will need to jack the car up after you install the master to the firewall so that you can disconnect the lines from the slave. This is not easy, and you will need a disconnect tool kit. THe kit is these little plastic sleeves that have a slit in one side. Just slide the one that matches your line size on, and force it between the line and the slave housing, it pops loose. There is a factory one, but it more than likely going to fall apart on you.

    YOu can do all this work in 2-3 hours easy. Make sure to tuck the new master line to the slave behind the heat shields as much as you can.

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    so the mity vac will work even if I get the Tick master cylinder? Do I need to bleed the system on two places? You say first in the reservoir and after that down at the master cylinder?

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    No just bleed it at the reservoir. I have the Tick and used the vac and it was very easy. As Keith said above you should be able to bleed it at the reservoir but may have to do a manual bleed from the bottom where the bleed screw is on the slave noted in picture #1 in above article. Take your time with the mighty vac and do what is described and should work first time. I did mine with no issues the first time.

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    You will need to jack the car up after you install the master to the firewall so that you can disconnect the lines from the slave. This is not easy, and you will need a disconnect tool kit.
    Seems difficult that I need some special tools for this job. Expensive to buy something I will probably only need one time and never again.

    What to do after the new master cylinder is in place? The system would be empty of fluid now so how to get the new fluid in? Is it enought to just pour it into the reservoir and let as much as possible go in. Bleed it with the vac and fill up with more fluid?

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    The disconnect tools are going to be needed no matter what you do. They are under ten dollars. All they are is plastic little sleeves. You will need them to replace your fuel filter, or disconnect any fuel lines in the future. The mity vac is an awesome brake bleeder as well. You could use it to suck fluids out of anything as well. I recently used mine to suck coolant out of the overflow tank on my wife's van. You can bleed your brakes in a fraction of the time you usually need. Without the helper you would normally need. I installed my Tick master and would do it the same way again, with the mity vac. I just love that little tool. This whole operation should only cost you around 80 plus the Tick master. You should be able to complete it with a friend in under two hours. The last 10 minutes will be bleeding the lines and reinstalling the kick panel. Make sure you keep rags around the reservoir, brake fluid is REALLY hard on paint!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zamuel View Post
    Is it enought to just pour it into the reservoir and let as much as possible go in. Bleed it with the vac and fill up with more fluid?
    Yep, that is pretty much how you do it. Nothing special. No gravity drips, no prelubing, just fill it up, put the mity vac in the hole, pump it a few times, and pump the clutch pedal a few times. Release pressure on the mity vac, pull it out, add more fluid. Repeat.

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    From the link, these disconnect tools cost about $50 and with shipping and other stuff it would be some money.
    I found this instruction about how to install the MC but I can't see that he is using some special tools anythere?

    Another happy Tick M/C customer and a sub-par install How to - LS1TECH

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Keith has you on the right track and we have already done the swap and pretty much know how it goes so I would suggest you read up on it some more order what's needed and tear into it....if you have somewhat any mechanical ability you should be able to complete this..sometimes you just have to go for it....if not your local garage can help

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