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Is there a problem back there?

This is a discussion on Is there a problem back there? within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I had the "rusty screw" prob. Replaced the RP rear end oil with syn racing and GM additive. Noise still ...

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    Is there a problem back there?

    I had the "rusty screw" prob. Replaced the RP rear end oil with syn racing and GM additive. Noise still there, not all the time. Got 41K on the odo. Do I, or will I, have a problem back there? If, or before it gets worse, I could go to a 12 or 9 like many have suggested, but I was also reminded that the shipping of a rear end housing to Hawaii will probably bite me. So, I also read threads about just replacing the differential with an aftermarket set up. Since I don't race, that sounds okay. Any recommendations?? The shipping on just a diff may not be as painful. Any and all thoughts on the matter are welcome. Thanks...

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    Your friendly policeman FinZ28's Avatar
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    I think before I pulled the trigger on a new rear-end or differential, I'd take the car to a reputable mechanic first and get him to look it over first. Then go from there.
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    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Simply put, the factory 10-bolt in these just is'nt all that great.

    3800 v6 guys break them under stock power which is'nt even 200hp to the wheels.

    Then you have others though (from what I've seen are few) that have no trouble with their rears over 100k.

    Kinda hit or miss imo..

    If your noise goes away from time to time I'd start looking @ bearings first and for exsesive(sp) ring & pinion lash.

    How do your universal joints look? I would check them for issues also as they like to make noise when they start to fail also.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Chris and Steven are right on the money. If you plan on adding more power, expect to swap the rear. You can baby the stock one, with proper servicing, and have it last for quite a while normally. Most people have problems babying these types of cars though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Knight View Post
    Chris and Steven are right on the money. If you plan on adding more power, expect to swap the rear. You can baby the stock one, with proper servicing, and have it last for quite a while normally. Most people have problems babying these types of cars though.
    All I got so far are bolt-on suspension stuff, intake, exhaust and it's a 6 speed w/ MGW shifter. Don't intend to do major power adders. It's just a fun car to drive. So what's your definition of "babying"??

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    No heavy launches or burnouts. Watch heavy acceleration over bumps as well.
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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knight View Post
    Most people have problems babying these types of cars though.

    <<<as he slowly raises his hand......I subscribe to the Spaz driving school
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    My y87 (auto) car with 3:42's out back made noise when I got her @ ~26k on the ticker.

    Put her in under warranty for the noise and they added the GM additive then she got quiet.

    I got rid of her @ ~ 130k and the rear had been whining since ~ 80k.

    In the 6 or so years I had her I may have done 7 burn outs total, and only ever had her stuck once..

    M6 (t56) is harder on rears than the automatic cars as a well known rule amoung many 4th gen f-body owners.

    These rears were more suited behind the "Iron Duke"..

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    Thanks guys, you've put my mind at ease...a little. Being a "used to be" drag racer, I like to pound thru the gears. I guess I'll have to start driving more like a road racer. Anyway, the wife is always telling me to "slow down" when she's in "shotgun", so this news will make her happy....

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    Tell her that the rear end is about to grenade and you need a 12 bolt or 9" for both your and her safety.
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    It's on jackstands.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Tell her that the rear end is about to grenade and you need a 12 bolt or 9" for both your and her safety.
    LOL, Jon...Ah yes, if only she was that gullible...I'd being asking you guys where to get my 12 bolt... Okay, back to reality..I was looking thru threads about the Torsen & 10 bolts in general. If it ever comes to it, how about replacing the diff with an aftermarket (i.e. Eaton)?? Thunder Racing has one for less than a $K. It aint no 12b but a lot cheaper?

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    IMO, any money spent upgrading the 10 bolt is a waste. Save it, and get a stronger rear.

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    The rusty screw nose is from the Torsen Differential. It is an all gear diff and some make this noise but it is not a death sentence. You may be able to drive with that issue for years without a failure. If you don't want the noise anymore then replace the limited slip diff fo ranother brand like Auburn.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

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    i dont think mine wines, im at 86k, but then again my exhaust sound may be covering it up
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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knight View Post
    IMO, any money spent upgrading the 10 bolt is a waste. Save it, and get a stronger rear.
    ^^This

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Jon and Knight are correct. Enjoy the time you have left with the old 10 bolt, when you get close to ordering your 12 bolt or 9" then you can go crazy and beat the life out of your rear. Trust me, it will put a smile on your face.

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