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Stock 10 bolt

This is a discussion on Stock 10 bolt within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Smittro so do my puller car manual transaxles.. And with both.. Too tight will generally burn your ...

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    Senior Member Z28Thunder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    so do my puller car manual transaxles..
    And with both.. Too tight will generally burn your gears up, and too loose will generally create slop and an annoying howling sound. If and I say this is a big if this is the noise he states..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Streak View Post
    OOh Ooh.... what would happen if a 4th Gen SS was mixed with a 1st Gen T/A?
    A 5th gen wannabe????

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98maro View Post
    i dnt get it sorry lol
    what u mean?
    Over time an old universal can loose grease from inside.. Moister can then get to the needle bearings and they can become noisey.. If enough lubericant is lost the joint can dry out inside. Again, becomming noisey just before it fails..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Z28Thunder View Post
    A 5th gen wannabe????
    Also known as a monstrosity....
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Streak View Post
    Also known as a monstrosity....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Z28Thunder View Post
    And with both.. Too tight will generally burn your gears up, and too loose will generally create slop and an annoying howling sound. If and I say this is a big if this is the noise he states..
    We get diff walk, and bind in the puller transaxles if we don't shim the diff right.. Very noisey as well. I have a strait tooth LSD in my project muncie it will be noisey always..lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    Over time an old universal can loose grease from inside.. Moister can then get to the needle bearings and they can become noisey.. If enough lubericant is lost the joint can dry out inside. Again, becomming noisey just before it fails..
    that im not sure,,, but i knw that i dnt like taht noise at all..
    00 ss blk m6 " STOCK" strano springs, slp bilstein shocks, adj LCA, adj panhard bar, relocation brackets, 2 point SFCs welded,OEM zo6 rims black, magnaflow exhaust, CME exhaust,E/cutout, slp grille, custom front plate mount, HIDs, whistler mod, side moldings delete, slp air lid, ported and polished TB, strut tower brace, 3.73s gears, and some other parts to list!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    Over time an old universal can loose grease from inside.. Moister can then get to the needle bearings and they can become noisey.. If enough lubericant is lost the joint can dry out inside. Again, becomming noisey just before it fails..
    I've also heard nearly every noise a bad UV can make. From howls, rumbles, and sqweeling, even had them lock up before.. Not saying this IS you issue but for all the more a replacement costs, it could'nt hurt to check it out..
    Last edited by Smittro; 01-05-2011 at 10:48 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    We get diff walk, and bind in the puller transaxles if we don't shim the diff right.. Very noisey as well. I have a strait tooth LSD in my project muncie it will be noisey always..lol
    If you're building for performance I think that is a choice you make. I don't mind the whine of gears (trans and rear) with the sound of the motor. As long as both have been set correct.

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    Another thing that adds to the noise problem is the shape of the hatchback glass. It magnifies sounds inside the vehicle that come from rear underside. Adding soundproofing material (like Dynamat) will help quiet it down inside the car. Two layers of Dynamat inside will really quiet it down, but is a little pricey. Alternatively, you can put down one layer of Dynamat inside and add a good thick layer of undercoating to the bottom outside of the car near the differential.

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