Steps to replace a 10 bolts?
This is a discussion on Steps to replace a 10 bolts? within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I'll soon install a new stock rear end, what are teh correct steps? The new rear end has no brakes ...
03-15-2006, 12:22 PM #1
Steps to replace a 10 bolts?
I'll soon install a new stock rear end, what are teh correct steps?
The new rear end has no brakes nor brake lines and I'll have to reuse mines.
I was thinking:
remove panhard rod
unbolt torque arm and put it aside without removing it from the front mount
remove control arms
now the rear end is hanging on the shock adsorbers
at this point can I remove the brake lines without disconnecting the pipings?
then disconnect the shock adsorbers and swap the rear end
reconnect everything the opposite way
Do I have to remove the exhaust?
Do I have to remove the crossmember + crossbrace?
Thanks - Stefano
03-15-2006, 05:12 PM #2
well, if you are swapping a complete rear minus the brakes, there's no need to remove the axles. you can unhook the brake lines fro mthe rear housing without having to open the lines. no, you do not need to remove the exhaust. if you are refering to the upper panhard brace, no, you do not need to remove it. you do need to remove the sway bar. here's tech article i made back when i swapped a rear out of a 3rd gen f-body. basically the same except for brake hardware. http://www.fl-thirdgen.org/rearswap.htm
03-15-2006, 09:48 PM #3
good writeup! thanks.
The new rear end has no brakes and I'll have to reuse mines and to remove the axles.
So you think I can unbolt the brakes, hang them somewhere and install the rear end without opening the lines?
To bleed the lines is not a problem, but If I can avoid it...MODS: A4 > M6 conversion, SC raptor hood, Vortech V9 G-Trim SQ, homemade water-alcohol injection
DYNO: 410 RWHP, 417 TORQUE @ 5 PSI
03-16-2006, 02:03 PM #4
yes. once you remove the calipers, just let them hang.
03-16-2006, 11:19 PM #5
This is a 2002 original M6 rear end, will it have the Torsen diff?
I think the Torsen doesn't need the limited slip additive... can I just use a 75W90 gears oil?
The rear end is now somewhere between Cincinnati and Zurich so I really don't know what is in there.
If it's a Torsen does it have the same C-clips as the older differentials? Same way to disconnect the axles?
03-17-2006, 02:23 PM #6
yes, GM additive.
yes, just like the old day c-clips. here's a tech article i did on swapping gears. it'll give you a run down on how to remove the axles.
03-17-2006, 02:32 PM #7
Oh I see, it has a spacer. The old style had a rod... not so much different.
I don't understand this of the LS additive: I was thinking it was only for the Eaton differential (with clutches).
Are you sure a Torsen will ned that?
Is there any advantage to use a 75W140 oil instead of the 75W90?
03-17-2006, 02:34 PM #8
i put the GM additive in mine. it came that way from GM. the 140 will be thicker and absorb more heat. along with more protection where the gears mesh.
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)