Rearend Went, Need Tips

**Cobra Killer** · 05-29-2010, 03:19 PM

Well after having the new Mickeys on her I thought I would try and run a VR4... Stupid idea, 3200rpm launch bye bye rearend. Its still works, kinda... I am debating which direction I should go... 12 bolt, 9in, or rebuild. I dont wanna spend an arm-and-a-leg. Can you beef up the 10 bolt to make it decent? Which is cheaper 12 bolt or 9in? Advantages of both? Any help would be the bees knees. Thanks guys.

**pajeff02** · 05-29-2010, 03:23 PM

Sorry to hear, but obviously not a surprise that it went. There is some good info in this thread: http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125182 Lots to choose from and it really depends on what you are looking to do with the car.

**Cobra Killer** · 05-29-2010, 03:43 PM

Thanks brother that thread helped alot. Looks like I will be ditching the 10 bolt. I didnt feel like reading the whole thing what did you end up going with and how it it working out for you?

**pajeff02** · 05-29-2010, 03:46 PM

Moser 12 bolt, welded sway bar brackets, 4 channel ABS/TCS, 33 spline axles and an Eaton True Trac. It's a bit noisier than anticipated but only have about 80 miles on it. Here's the install thread: http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127890

**Danger731** · 05-29-2010, 04:00 PM

Yeah I dropped 1700 bux on a rebuild, dumbass

**pajeff02** · 05-29-2010, 04:01 PM

Originally Posted by Danger731

Yeah I dropped 1700 bux on a rebuild, dumbass

Ouch!

**Y2KPewterSS** · 05-29-2010, 08:43 PM

I wouldn't even waste a dime on rebuilding a 10 bolt. Upgrade for sure.

**02transamce** · 05-30-2010, 07:48 PM

What ever you decide on 12 bolt or 9 inch Order from Moser or Strange directly,don't fool around with internet vendors trying to save some bucks,trust me,I wish I would have ordered straight from Moser!!! See nightmare 12 bolt thread in AAG!
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**Cobra Killer** · 06-01-2010, 08:36 PM

Okay so I am never going to make enough power to break those rearends. Which one fits better, lower maintence, easier to work on? And which is cheaper?

**Hi-Po** · 06-01-2010, 08:47 PM

Originally Posted by Danger731

Yeah I dropped 1700 bux on a rebuild, dumbass

On a 10 bolt rebuild???

**Supershafts** · 06-05-2010, 06:32 AM

12 bolt.....

You are building for performance or just to waste time and lose, you want to win right...or you want to leave/lose some hp ? ? ? ?

The 12 bolt is your answer....

You can get it cheaper if you find the right shop that is a dealer for them.... just use a reputable shop and not some dopey flashy gimmick to get your attention thru good advertising gimmicks

**Knight** · 06-05-2010, 12:02 PM

Originally Posted by Supershafts

12 bolt.....

You are building for performance or just to waste time and lose, you want to win right...or you want to leave/lose some hp ? ? ? ?

The 12 bolt is your answer....

You can get it cheaper if you find the right shop that is a dealer for them.... just use a reputable shop and not some dopey flashy gimmick to get your attention thru good advertising gimmicks

Are you refering to the 9 inch as a bad rear end, or upgrading the 10 bolt as a waste of time? If the 9 inch - you are sadly mistaken. If upgrading the 10 bolt - you are quite correct.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-05-2010, 12:21 PM

OP - Either choice and you are going to be dropping some coin. The 12 bolt will be less expensive.

Here is a very informative article that compares the two units; pros and cons of each.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...son/index.html

**mxlplx71** · 06-05-2010, 02:34 PM

will the stock 10blt driveshaft fit with a 12blt swap?

**pajeff02** · 06-05-2010, 05:17 PM

I believe my PST drive shaft is about an inch shorter than stock. Off the tailstock, I only had 5/8" of clearance to the drive shaft damper. It may depend on whose 12 bolt you purchase though -- mine was a Moser. Also, you will need a conversion u-joint if you retain the stock drive shaft. The aftermarket axles has a 1350 style yoke.

**mxlplx71** · 06-05-2010, 06:33 PM

i think they have a 1310 option

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-05-2010, 06:36 PM

If you are dropping that much coin on a rear end, I would also suggest upgrading the driveshaft and yoke to the 1350. If you don't, your DS will be the next weakest link in your drivetrain. They do sell adapters. I don't think they have the 1310 yoke as an option, but I may be wrong. I don't remember seeing that on the Moser when I was researching when I got my 9".

**pajeff02** · 06-06-2010, 02:32 AM

Before I ordered my driveshaft, I did find an adapter u-joint that would have worked at our local NAPA. I agree though, the stock piece would just be the "next weakest link" in the chain. There have been a few posts on here in the past year or so where guys have torn up their stock shafts.

**02transamce** · 06-06-2010, 05:08 AM

Correct i got the 1310 yoke and napa had the u joint.I am planning a driveshaft upgrade in the future...carbon fiber!
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**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-06-2010, 07:32 AM

Originally Posted by 02transamce

Correct i got the 1310 yoke and napa had the u joint.I am planning a driveshaft upgrade in the future...carbon fiber!
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I would research a little on the CF drive shaft before dropping that much money on one. I've heard that rocks and other debris can cause damage to them because they are made of carbon fiber. I personally went with a PST.