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rear end woes!! (yes i already read the stickies)

This is a discussion on rear end woes!! (yes i already read the stickies) within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; so about 2 months ago, while driving home, my right rear brakes began howling and squealing. I pulled over and ...

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    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    rear end woes!! (yes i already read the stickies)

    so about 2 months ago, while driving home, my right rear brakes began howling and squealing. I pulled over and checked it out and the rotor was chewed to shit. limped it home, went and bought new pads and rotor.the pads were worn to metal. changed pads and rotor and ever since then, that wheel constantly gets covered in brake dust. fwd to today, brakes began squealing again. i was immediately reminded of my 95 t/a which did the same thing. frequent rear brake changes. so anyway, i jacked it up and took the caliper and bracket off and pulled on the axle to see if it would slide out, and no it didnt. moved maybe a millimeter. pads were shot again. i have also noticed since i installed the poly trans mount that i can feel a hard vibration in 3rd gear at highway speeds. and also have been getting rear end noise lately. question is, is the c-clip broke? why are my pads getting chewed off? and what all do i need to replace in the rear end to get it back to normal? i dont have some high hp engine, its a stock 5.3 with headers, so please dont recommend a 12 bolt or a 9in or whatever...just need the stock rear end back up to par. and without spending a shit ton of money. im pretty savvy on mechanical things (did my own engine swap with no help whatsoever) so im sure i can figure out the proper backlash. i may also consider going to a 3:73 gear while im in there. Please gimme some input and fast! i gotta get this done within the next few weeks.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    If your c clip was broke you'll have an axle floating out as you drive. So I don't think it's that. Could be bad bearings or more likely a bad brake caliber.



    your in luck I have a 10 bolt center chunk that needs a good home. Not sure of the gear ratio, but it came out of a 97 TA auto transmission. I have no need for it because I used the rear for the axle tubes for my 8.8 Frankenstein rear project.

    You want it, you can have it for free + shipping. You'd be doing me a favor.


    Let me know.

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    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    oh man you are one awesome dude! i definately want it...how would i find out shipping cost and who do i pay? and i assume i would still need a new pinion for this? and also, i dont have traction control. does that kind of thing matter when swapping the chunk?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jiveass View Post
    so about 2 months ago, while driving home, my right rear brakes began howling and squealing. I pulled over and checked it out and the rotor was chewed to shit. limped it home, went and bought new pads and rotor.the pads were worn to metal. changed pads and rotor and ever since then, that wheel constantly gets covered in brake dust. fwd to today, brakes began squealing again. i was immediately reminded of my 95 t/a which did the same thing. frequent rear brake changes. so anyway, i jacked it up and took the caliper and bracket off and pulled on the axle to see if it would slide out, and no it didnt. moved maybe a millimeter. pads were shot again. i have also noticed since i installed the poly trans mount that i can feel a hard vibration in 3rd gear at highway speeds. and also have been getting rear end noise lately. question is, is the c-clip broke? why are my pads getting chewed off? and what all do i need to replace in the rear end to get it back to normal? i dont have some high hp engine, its a stock 5.3 with headers, so please dont recommend a 12 bolt or a 9in or whatever...just need the stock rear end back up to par. and without spending a shit ton of money. im pretty savvy on mechanical things (did my own engine swap with no help whatsoever) so im sure i can figure out the proper backlash. i may also consider going to a 3:73 gear while im in there. Please gimme some input and fast! i gotta get this done within the next few weeks.
    Dont know if this helps but ..when i changed my PHB and installed poly trans and TA mounts when i went to start and drive it the rearend had a weird sound and the gears shift felt more notchy then usual,,,,,I took it to a speed shop guy who specializes in vettes and he checkd my car out and somehow the rear end wasnt aligned correctly (probably i screwed up when r/r the PHB) and of course with the rear out of alignment the drive line was at a funky angle and was also pushing up a lil on the trans side..after he aligned the rear,,viola no more problems..... also my buddys 96 SS had a hard vibration at 70+ and his was the driveline u-joints...so..........
    Last edited by SuperSSguy; 08-24-2012 at 12:17 AM.

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    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSSguy View Post
    Dont know if this helps but ..when i changed my PHB and installed poly trans and TA mounts when i went to start and drive it the rearend had a weird sound and the gears shift felt more notchy then usual,,,,,I took it to a speed shop guy who specializes in vettes and he checkd my car out and somehow the rear end wasnt aligned correctly (probably i screwed up when r/r the PHB) and of course with the rear out of alignment the drive line was at a funky angle and was also pushing up a lil on the trans side..after he aligned the rear,,viola no more problems..... also my buddys 96 SS had a hard vibration at 70+ and his was the driveline u-joints...so..........
    i have wondered about the u joints as well...will be checking into that this weekend.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    You say you pulled on the axle, but did you check for rotational movement? Only one side having an issue would lead me towards an axle bearing.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jiveass View Post
    oh man you are one awesome dude! i definately want it...how would i find out shipping cost and who do i pay? and i assume i would still need a new pinion for this? and also, i dont have traction control. does that kind of thing matter when swapping the chunk?
    1st let's find out if you need it. If it's just an axle bearing you may be lucky and get away with just a few dollars in parts.




    If you still need it PM me your address and I can find out for you how much.



    Other info you asked about:


    If you change the gear ratio you'll buy the ring and pinon in a set, they don't sell separate.

    If you start looking for gears from my research lately I found that Yukon are considered the best, with Richmond and US Standard very close. I was told recently Strange uses US Standard as their brand of choice. Some consider Richmonds a little noisy, others love 'em Price for my 8.8 gears was an average of $200

    Also look for a main cap and pinon set up kit. I got mine for my 8.8 project from Strange for $94 + shipping. I think a 10 bolt would be cheaper.

    Axle bearings you can get from any local parts store.

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    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    ok so how exactly do i diagnose the bearings without taking the rear apart? is it possible? i never considered the bearings but since you guys mentioned it, it does make sense. ive never tackled a rear end issue, so this is a learning experience.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Knight View Post
    You say you pulled on the axle, but did you check for rotational movement? Only one side having an issue would lead me towards an axle bearing.
    i sure hope thats all it is.

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    It'd be hard to diagnose without removing, but if there is excessive movement I'd think it'd be obvious. The best thing to do would be to remove the axle and inspect the bearing. You won't need to remove the carrier, but will need to access it to remove the c-clip for the axle.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    the very first thing I would do is rule out the caliper.....sure it's not sticking on the pins?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    agree caliber first then bearing

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    just out of curiosity i checked the driver side pads and they were screwed, but not metal to metal....i replaced both sides and took it for a spin and it seems ok so far.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    2 months and your pads go to shit......somethings wrong.

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    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    true...but what? the axles dont move up and down....ill say that the passenger side moves in and out about 1/16th of an inch it seems..and the driver side moves in and out a little less than that.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    and the calibers have you look and test them yet?


    You can test them by placing the rear on jack stands, wheels off. Have some one press the break a few times. Make sure the caliber clamps properly. See if one hangs up.


    Another test and this you have to be super careful. The whole rear needs to be on jack stands and front wheels chocked. Have another person put the car put into gear and at idle. After the axle turns a few listen for any noise and try to locate, next have the breaks pumped again.

    If the caliber is not hanging up you most likely need to check the bearings.

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    its short but its skinny. jiveass's Avatar
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    well i had my son press the brakes while i watched the calipers and that showed to be good...i did consider putting it in drive but i need to reposition the jackstands...i got lazy lol....texas heat is a killer.

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