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Rear end pinion seal

This is a discussion on Rear end pinion seal within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I think my seal is leaking. Dripping at the nut. Is it easy to change the seal? Some rear ends ...

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    Rear end pinion seal

    I think my seal is leaking. Dripping at the nut. Is it easy to change the seal? Some rear ends have a crush sleeve and torque specs to set the backlash.

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    Super Moderator mrr23's Avatar
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    is it easy, somewhat. getting the nut loose without an air gun will be difficult. there is a crush sleeve. if you have access to air tools, you can do what i have done. mark the nut and pinion. count the threads showing past the nut. take off, replace seal and tighten the nut back down matching the mark you made on the pinion snout.
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    How hard is it to get the seal out and in.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Rear end pinion seal

    Honestly a PITA.

    You have to remove the driveshaft then pinion nut, pinion and will need to replace crush sleeve to replace the seal and hope you can put the pinion nut black on without changing the backspace or lash of the diff. A lot of times you're going to have to just blow it apart and redo it.
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    Super Moderator mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnfin View Post
    How hard is it to get the seal out and in.
    simple. just pry the old one out, then lightly tap the new one in. put some silicone around the seal shell.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    If it's just weeping or a really slow drip I'd just refill the diff and not worry till it really starts to leak. It's almost like GM intended for them to leak some. If any consultation my 8.8 rear weeps too.

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    Pic looking up. Exhaust is soaked. Only a slight drip though.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Yeah no longer weeping there.

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    So is it seal time? I would hate to f-up my rear end

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    yes.

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    My pinion nut was not very tight. Whats with that? And how come some people say you have to replace the crush sleeve. Also do you need a puller for the yoke?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    You must replace the crush sleeve. As you torque it down, it crushes down to provide correct spacing for the pinon back spacing, if you over torque the sleeve is too small and gotta get a new one and start over. Too tight and the bearing wears out fast, too loose and same thing.

    The yoke should slide off, you may have to tap it to assist but never dead blow it.

    If it was loosen then it wasn't one tight enough. After it's tighten to torque spec I take a punch and at the base of the nut I give a tap just enough to indent the thread. It will help prevent the nut from loosing up but will still allow it to come off. You may need an impact to do so but it does work.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 05-21-2018 at 06:48 AM.

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    I forgot again, what is the RPO Code for the factory installed leaky pinion seal? I know it was one of the most common options on our cars.

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    my rear end is shot. Yolk moves up and down. Is it possible to remove the front bearing and crush sleeve with normal tools?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Nope, You're going to need to replace the inner bearing as well as the outer. The inner needs to be pressed off and back on as well as have the shim in place.

    Need a socket to for the pinon nut, the rest are 13mm and IIRC 15mm for the main bearing caps. And an 8mm for the pin. If you have difficulty getting a socket on that one, take the pass side bearing cap off and then remove it. Be careful not to round it off. Some mechanics are dicks and gorilla torque that bolt.


    There's a little more to it all, but if you do it yourself, I can give you the break down. Main thing you'll need is a press for the bearings. The setup of the back lash is a PITA.

    I really recommend having a pro do that or you're going to be having on do it all again.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 05-22-2018 at 09:06 AM.

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    Rear end

    1. Does the ws6 rear end differ from the v8 firebird rearend

    2. Can i half ass it and just replace the front bearing



    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Nope, You're going to need to replace the inner bearing as well as the outer. The inner needs to be pressed off and back on as well as have the shim in place.

    Need a socket to for the pinon nut, the rest are 13mm and IIRC 15mm for the main bearing caps. And an 8mm for the pin. If you have difficulty getting a socket on that one, take the pass side bearing cap off and then remove it. Be careful not to round it off. Some mechanics are dicks and gorilla torque that bolt.


    There's a little more to it all, but if you do it yourself, I can give you the break down. Main thing you'll need is a press for the bearings. The setup of the back lash is a PITA.

    I really recommend having a pro do that or you're going to be having on do it all again.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Difference would be gear ratio and if it has 3 or 4 channel abs.

    Just doing the outer bearing may get you down the road but not for long. Think of it this way. If the outer is wobbling so is the inner. Maybe not as much but it still is.

    If not set up right it's going to cost you more. Broken gears, snapped axle, etc....

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    abs

    How can I tell about the different types of ABS by looking at the unit?

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    3 channel ABS only has a sensor/wiring on top center of rear end,4 channel ABS and Traction Control has a sensor/wiring at each side dust shield at the ends of the rear end housing. NO,you can't 'rewire' a 3 channel to work as a 4 channel and you can't 'rewire' a 4 channel to work as a 3 channel.

    I've(FirstYrLS1Z) been conversing with you on the other forum.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Correct, Also if you have TCS you have 4 channel, if you don't it's 3 Channel.

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