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Rear end girdle.

This is a discussion on Rear end girdle. within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hey guys I am rebuilding the 10 bolt in my Formula. It has 97,000 miles on it and it's noisy ...

  1. #1
    Formulatastic yellowv's Avatar
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    Rear end girdle.

    Hey guys I am rebuilding the 10 bolt in my Formula. It has 97,000 miles on it and it's noisy and showing wear. I just got a new Auburn differential that was an SLP takeout. I am also going to get a new set of Motive 3:42's and the Ratech complete kit with all the seals, bearings, etc. I know I would be better off with a 12 bolt or 9" but I don't have the cash for it. I got a great deal on the diff. and hopefully will be around $400 in parts for everything to make the rear as good as new (which we all know isn't too great) which is why I am staying with the stock gear ratio. My ? is will a TA rear end girdle really make a difference in strength for the rear?

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    well the way the girdle works is by reducing bearing cap flex........they look like they are legit...BUT. that in no way means the rearend will be strong enuff for any more power.........how much rwhp do you push ....id say 400 rwhp is goint to break that rear no matter what......even a hard 2nd gear shift would blow the 7.5 by then.....if your going to build this rear, as precaution weld the axle tubes also...get stock ratio 3.42 gears(last alot longer)

    you said you bought an eaton...awesome....do all these things and break the gears in right..and 400 rwhp will be held pretty well as long as you dont dump the clutch with drag radials.....also the suspension bind will make the 10 bolt flex and your gears will break(pinion deflection) so get some control arms and such.....

    hope this helps...

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    Rollo Tomassee AKIRA's Avatar
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    He said he got an Auburn.

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    Formulatastic yellowv's Avatar
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    I did get an Auburn. As for the gears I did also say I was staying with 3:42's. I have made the 4:10's in a 10 bolt mistake and wont do it again. I am just looking for a way to make the rear as strong as possible. I dont expect to make 3000rpm launches on ET streets or anything. Right now the car is bone stock so it is making probably around 300rwhp. At about the same time I do the rear I will be adding long tubes, TD's, and a lid but I should still be under 350 or right around it. I figure with the rebuilt rear I should hopefully be able to get the occasional trip to the track without problems as long as I don't use anything stickier than Nittos. Now once I get a cam I may be asking for trouble.

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    Rollo Tomassee AKIRA's Avatar
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    I am waiting for someone to come on in here and say to just get a 12-bolt.

    I just rebuilt my rear end. Ive got the Eaton (clutch driven) differential, TA Rear End Cover, Richmond 373 gears, Ratech Install Kit, and "Axle Savers." Thats about as strong as you can get, but if I am going to keep the car, I will continue to modify it and all this shit will have to be replaced. Its going to happen. Or I will sell my car, but no matter what, one of those options will occur.

    Where is S. Florida do you live? Do you know of ANY speed shops that dyno tune? I need a tune bad. I live 45 min N of West Palm Beach.

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    ls1devil lt1dragon's Avatar
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    I have a T/A girdle when i had my 3.73 gears put in the shop said they are worth the money so i had one installed.

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    Formulatastic yellowv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKIRA View Post
    I am waiting for someone to come on in here and say to just get a 12-bolt.

    I just rebuilt my rear end. Ive got the Eaton (clutch driven) differential, TA Rear End Cover, Richmond 373 gears, Ratech Install Kit, and "Axle Savers." Thats about as strong as you can get, but if I am going to keep the car, I will continue to modify it and all this shit will have to be replaced. Its going to happen. Or I will sell my car, but no matter what, one of those options will occur.

    Where is S. Florida do you live? Do you know of ANY speed shops that dyno tune? I need a tune bad. I live 45 min N of West Palm Beach.
    I am in Port St. Lucie. I don't know of anyone locally that dyno tunes.

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    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKIRA View Post
    I am waiting for someone to come on in here and say to just get a 12-bolt.

    I just rebuilt my rear end. Ive got the Eaton (clutch driven) differential, TA Rear End Cover, Richmond 373 gears, Ratech Install Kit, and "Axle Savers." Thats about as strong as you can get, but if I am going to keep the car, I will continue to modify it and all this shit will have to be replaced. Its going to happen. Or I will sell my car, but no matter what, one of those options will occur.

    Where is S. Florida do you live? Do you know of ANY speed shops that dyno tune? I need a tune bad. I live 45 min N of West Palm Beach.
    He said he doesn't have the money for a 12 bolt or 9". Besides, alot of guys get lucky and get a good amount of use with the 10 bolt. I had 136,000miles of massive abuse on mine, and it took it well.

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    Rollo Tomassee AKIRA's Avatar
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    Hah im in stuart.

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    Formulatastic yellowv's Avatar
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    I figured you must be close when you said you were 45 mins N of West palm. You must drive slow I am north of you and it takes me 45 minutes too

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    Formulatastic yellowv's Avatar
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    I'm hoping it holds up pretty decent. All in all I should only have about $500 or so of parts in it when all is said and done. Much cheaper than well over $2000 for a 12 Bolt, 9 inch or S60. I have known many guys who put literally hundreds of passes on the 10 bolt w/ 3:42's and an M6 that were in the high to mid 12's. That is about where I would like my car to be for the forseeable future. When it doesn't need to be my daily driver anymore (I drive 90-100 miles a day) then I may swap the rear.

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    i was consistently running low 12's on my fully built 10 bolt-m6 combo...and that's when i was consistently busting ring and pinion gears....and eventually blowing out aftermarket diffs....

    and a fully built 10 bolt can easily be broke with stock hp. and dr's

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    Quote Originally Posted by stunna-shades View Post
    i was consistently running low 12's on my fully built 10 bolt-m6 combo...and that's when i was consistently busting ring and pinion gears....and eventually blowing out aftermarket diffs....

    and a fully built 10 bolt can easily be broke with stock hp. and dr's
    Yeah, we all know that there is a limit to what they can handle, but for the most part they are sufficiant. Yes, it would be money well spent buying a 12 bolt or such, but their damn expensive!

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    definately..if you want full potential from your f-body..otherwize a built 10 bolt should be fine

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    Member lrader99's Avatar
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    welding the axle tubes is a really good idea but make sure they put the rear in a jig...when you weld it gets the metal hot and prone to distort...the last thing you want is warped axle tubes....but on the subject of the girdle i am running a TA girdle its much thicker than the factory piece which on top of it being stronger it also helps absorb the heat in the rear end...aluminum cools much faster than steel.

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    the aftermarket covers also hold more fluid,which would dissipate more heat..so if not just for that reason

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    Rollo Tomassee AKIRA's Avatar
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    Thats actually the only real reason why I thought they were beneficial. I mean, does have the "stoppers" in them too, but are they really that effective?

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    Yes, it puts a load on the caps

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    its not a big diffrence but every little thing helps

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    I dont really think it helps much, looks cool tho.

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