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Rear End Clunk

This is a discussion on Rear End Clunk within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA Hmmm...got any more? lol I dont plan on modding it so i dont need something that ...

  1. #21
    Member jujofields's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    Hmmm...got any more? lol I dont plan on modding it so i dont need something that will hold a lot of power and i dont take it to the track. I just need something to take regular street driving. I know you cant really beef up a 10 bolt but if a set of gears will help or anything else for cheap I am willing. Any other thoughts? If I were able to get a ford 9" do they bolt in without any modification? This is most likely not going to happen but i am just curious
    Actually, you can beef up a 10 bolt to withstand at least 400rwhp...and it'd be a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a 9" or 12 bolt...

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    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jujofields View Post
    Actually, you can beef up a 10 bolt to withstand at least 400rwhp...and it'd be a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a 9" or 12 bolt...
    Please Proceed...Im stock and as I said Im not plannin on modding anytime soon so Im up for that

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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    Well TCS is a nice thing to have especially in the rain lol. And if you dont have the rear ABS thr front still works correct? But I am looking for one in good condition, let me know what you want. I will call him because Im not trying to install this myself when i get it...just more problems. But good to here from ya again man
    Well if you dont have ABS in the back it will act funny the first few times you brake on start up and then after about 5 min of driving the ABS system shuts down(i could go in detail why it happens but i dont wanna type that much haha). Thats what my car did. So i just pulled the fuse and left it off. I actually like not having ABS. Before you go buying a bunch of parts i would definitely call him, have him take it for a drive and see what he says. He will most likely recommend a rebuild and in your case im almost positive its the pinion bearing. I wouldnt worry about the ONE clunk around one corner. If happens frequently maybe. BUT the master rebuild kit will replace everything but the gears and posi and you should be set.

    Maybe search the forums or maybe someone hear can chime in, ive heard about replacing the crush sleeve? maybe? with a solid one or something. Because when that goes, it causes play in the rear which kills your pinion bearing.

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    Just a souped up sunfire. Ryans99LS1's Avatar
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    oh and buy a rear end girdle. I found a MAC one on ebay for $60 brand new. Same as the T/A one.

    OHH shit i didnt even see those pics. You cracked the fuck out of your diff hahahaha. Ignore that last post then. If your tight on money ill sell the rear and gears for $125.
    Last edited by Ryans99LS1; 10-17-2008 at 06:29 PM.

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    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    The gears do not look eaten up but if you look in the 2nd pic there are gear marks where it was cracked on the posi unit? I dont know much on differentials so im not sure what that part is called lol. But if its cheap to have mine rebuilt to just handle the stock power im up for that. I just dont know what to look for

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    Just a souped up sunfire. Ryans99LS1's Avatar
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    yeah thats my bad. I edited that post above while you were postin i think. You need a new rear, probably not gears but why not get some 4.10s if you can find a set, and the rebuild kit.

    Now my posi was in my car for about 42k so its got some wear on it but last i knew, it worked. If you can find an 3 series (m6 standard) posi for cheap then pick that up along with the rebuild kit and then make a choice on buying new gears or not. If your in a pinch then you can always buy mine, its not going anywhere.

  7. #27
    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryans99LS1 View Post
    yeah thats my bad. I edited that post above while you were postin i think. You need a new rear, probably not gears but why not get some 4.10s if you can find a set, and the rebuild kit.

    Now my posi was in my car for about 42k so its got some wear on it but last i knew, it worked. If you can find an 3 series (m6 standard) posi for cheap then pick that up along with the rebuild kit and then make a choice on buying new gears or not. If your in a pinch then you can always buy mine, its not going anywhere.
    Well the car is about to be put in storage, as i posted in your thread in the WS6 section lol, so i wanna take my time. I would prefer to rebuild the rear to hold stock power because I believe That would be the cheapest/easiest. Were would you suggest looking for that posi?

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    Member jujofields's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    Please Proceed...Im stock and as I said Im not plannin on modding anytime soon so Im up for that
    I will find the complete article, filled with step-by-step instructions & pictures, and post it up here for you. If you don't plan on modding your car past 425rwhp, beefing up your stock 10 bolt will be extremely effective and would cost roughly $500! Compared to paying well over $2000 for a 9" or 12 bolt, I'd say this might be the way to go for you.

    Until I can find the article link, I'll give you a VERY BRIEF summary: Invest $500 to weld the axle tubes, install aftermarket axles, & put on a TA differential cover......

  9. #29
    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jujofields View Post
    I will find the complete article, filled with step-by-step instructions & pictures, and post it up here for you. If you don't plan on modding your car past 425rwhp, beefing up your stock 10 bolt will be extremely effective and would cost roughly $500! Compared to paying well over $2000 for a 9" or 12 bolt, I'd say this might be the way to go for you.

    Until I can find the article link, I'll give you a VERY BRIEF summary: Invest $500 to weld the axle tubes, install aftermarket axles, & put on a TA differential cover......
    Would this include the part that was cracked as seen in the 2nd pic on the first page?

  10. #30
    Junior Member kingcrab's Avatar
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    Sorry to see your mess.

    Question? Does your carhave the ABS on the carrier or the
    axles shafts? Look at the backing plate for the brakes, some have the sensors for the ECT & ABS outbound. If so any carrier that fits the housing and gear ratio is ok.

    Have you pulled the axles? You need to look it the axle bearing surface for wear!

    Gears, use Strange/US gear for the street, Summit should sell them. $300
    They also sell the install kit ,,bearings, shims ect. $100+
    The Zexel Torson Posi track carrier Is like the stock piece, they have been updated and work well. <$300.

    If you need axles, Superior are original type, Moser"s are better quality. Summit sells these as well!

    The stock setup will hold more than stock power.

    Be sure to use only GM Lube with stock type rebuild!

    Hope this helps you price things. Labor is about 4 to5 hours at the shop rate. $250 ??

    I know a great shop in NW Ohio, these guys are the best in 5 counties and are friends of mine!
    Last edited by kingcrab; 10-18-2008 at 03:52 PM.

  11. #31
    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingcrab View Post
    Question? Does your carhave the ABS on the carrier or the
    axles shafts? Look at the backing plate for the brakes, some have the sensors for the ECT & ABS outbound. If so any carrier that fits the housing and gear ratio is ok.

    Have you pulled the axles? You need to look it the axle bearing surface for wear!

    Gears, use Strange/US gear for the street, Summit should sell them. $300
    They also sell the install kit ,,bearings, shims ect. $100+
    The Zexel Torson Posi track carrier Is like the stock piece, they have been updated and work well. <$300.

    If you need axles, Superior are original type, Moser"s are better quality. Summit sells these as well!

    The stock setup will hold more than stock power.

    Be sure to use only GM Lube with stock type rebuild!

    Hope this helps you price things. Labor is about 4 to5 hours at the shop rate. $250 ??

    I know a great shop in NW Ohio, these guys are the best in 5 counties and are friends of mine!
    How do I check the axles? And When i do get the parts I am interested in the shop.

  12. #32
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    Hey dude. A few months ago, I was in the same boat you were in with my '02 TA, and I'm in northeast Ohio too. If you only need a stock replacement, your best bet would be to call Cleveland Pick-A-Part in Columbia Station. Their yard is kind of in the middle of nowhere, but they have craploads of late-model F-body parts. Back then, I found a low mileage (around 45k) stock TA rear end with all the goodies (ABS, TCS, etc.) for around $300. All you'd need is to rent a U-haul van for $20 + mileage & gas to get it back home.

    If you want to go the rebuild route, I've outlined a list of stuff you'll need. The items with a "+" are the theoretically unnecessary parts that will beef up the rear end.
    - 4 qts. Mobil1 synthetic gear oil (Any synthetic works, but I like Mobil1. ~1.5 qts. in first, then change the fluid after 500-1000 miles.)
    - Ratech rebuild kit with bearings & spacers ($70-90 at Summit)
    - 1 rear end gasket (For the 500-1000 mile fluid change. The rebuild kit should come with 1 gasket. Some use RTV instead, or a combination.)
    + Ratech solid pinion spacer (Summit)
    + New OEM crosspin (<$5 from any GM dealer)
    + Stronger axles with a higher spline count
    + Eaton TrueTrac differential (You'll obviously need a new differential. Most say the Eaton's stonger than your Zexel.)
    + Aftermarket diff cover/girdle with bearing cap preload bolts (I've got the cheap Summit one on mine, but it works like the more expensive ones.)
    - OEM pinion seal (~$12 at GM dealer. Seriously. Get this. I went through 3-4 aftermarket seals before getting the OEM. Not a drop leaked since.)
    - Labor (I found a guy in Massilon who said he'd do my rebuild for around $250, which is pretty damn cheap. If you've never rebuilt a rear before, you're better off leaving it to a pro. I've done 1 1/2 myself, and it's a tough job, no matter what anyone says.)
    + New gears (If you have a M6, most people recommend a 4:10 ratio. Motive Performance, US Gear, and AAM are your best bets. I got my Motive Performance gears for around $185 at Summit.)
    - Loctite (The installer may have this, but you want the red stuff. Make sure he Loctites the ring gear bolts & the crosspin bolt.)
    Last edited by jcws6; 10-18-2008 at 09:19 PM.

  13. #33
    Just a souped up sunfire. Ryans99LS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcws6 View Post
    Hey dude. A few months ago, I was in the same boat you were in with my '02 TA, and I'm in northeast Ohio too. If you only need a stock replacement, your best bet would be to call Cleveland Pick-A-Part in Columbia Station. Their yard is kind of in the middle of nowhere, but they have craploads of late-model F-body parts. Back then, I found a low mileage (around 45k) stock TA rear end with all the goodies (ABS, TCS, etc.) for around $300. All you'd need is to rent a U-haul van for $20 + mileage & gas to get it back home.

    If you want to go the rebuild route, I've outlined a list of stuff you'll need. The items with a "+" are the theoretically unnecessary parts that will beef up the rear end.
    - 4 qts. Mobil1 synthetic gear oil (Any synthetic works, but I like Mobil1. ~1.5 qts. in first, then change the fluid after 500-1000 miles.)
    - Ratech rebuild kit with bearings & spacers ($70-90 at Summit)
    - 1 rear end gasket (For the 500-1000 mile fluid change. The rebuild kit should come with 1 gasket. Some use RTV instead, or a combination.)
    + Ratech solid pinion spacer (Summit)
    + New OEM crosspin (<$5 from any GM dealer)
    + Stronger axles with a higher spline count
    + Eaton TrueTrac differential (You'll obviously need a new differential. Most say the Eaton's stonger than your Zexel.)
    + Aftermarket diff cover/girdle with bearing cap preload bolts (I've got the cheap Summit one on mine, but it works like the more expensive ones.)
    - OEM pinion seal (~$12 at GM dealer. Seriously. Get this. I went through 3-4 aftermarket seals before getting the OEM. Not a drop leaked since.)
    - Labor (I found a guy in Massilon who said he'd do my rebuild for around $250, which is pretty damn cheap. If you've never rebuilt a rear before, you're better off leaving it to a pro. I've done 1 1/2 myself, and it's a tough job, no matter what anyone says.)
    + New gears (If you have a M6, most people recommend a 4:10 ratio. Motive Performance, US Gear, and AAM are your best bets. I got my Motive Performance gears for around $185 at Summit.)
    - Loctite (The installer may have this, but you want the red stuff. Make sure he Loctites the ring gear bolts & the crosspin bolt.)
    Follow this post. its exactly right. especially the oem pinion seal.. mine has since started leaking. i figured since its going into storage youd do it right. i know your closer to Mike than massilon but give both a call and see what either say. take the cheaper one!! i know mike knows his shit but im sure the massilon guy knows his stuff too!!

  14. #34
    Junior Member kingcrab's Avatar
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    Pulling Axles.

    Remove the wheels from the car.
    Remove the rotors and Parking brake shoes.
    Push axles toward center of the rear end. Remove the C-Clips from the carrier. (These are located inside the carrier and will require you to remove the retainer,,1/4" or 3/8" long bolt that goes in from the side. Piece of metal slides down between the side gears in center of carrier.) Some time I need a pencil magnet to get the C-Clips out. Slide axles out of housing.

  15. #35
    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcws6 View Post
    Hey dude. A few months ago, I was in the same boat you were in with my '02 TA, and I'm in northeast Ohio too. If you only need a stock replacement, your best bet would be to call Cleveland Pick-A-Part in Columbia Station. Their yard is kind of in the middle of nowhere, but they have craploads of late-model F-body parts. Back then, I found a low mileage (around 45k) stock TA rear end with all the goodies (ABS, TCS, etc.) for around $300. All you'd need is to rent a U-haul van for $20 + mileage & gas to get it back home.

    If you want to go the rebuild route, I've outlined a list of stuff you'll need. The items with a "+" are the theoretically unnecessary parts that will beef up the rear end.
    - 4 qts. Mobil1 synthetic gear oil (Any synthetic works, but I like Mobil1. ~1.5 qts. in first, then change the fluid after 500-1000 miles.)
    - Ratech rebuild kit with bearings & spacers ($70-90 at Summit)
    - 1 rear end gasket (For the 500-1000 mile fluid change. The rebuild kit should come with 1 gasket. Some use RTV instead, or a combination.)
    + Ratech solid pinion spacer (Summit)
    + New OEM crosspin (<$5 from any GM dealer)
    + Stronger axles with a higher spline count
    + Eaton TrueTrac differential (You'll obviously need a new differential. Most say the Eaton's stonger than your Zexel.)
    + Aftermarket diff cover/girdle with bearing cap preload bolts (I've got the cheap Summit one on mine, but it works like the more expensive ones.)
    - OEM pinion seal (~$12 at GM dealer. Seriously. Get this. I went through 3-4 aftermarket seals before getting the OEM. Not a drop leaked since.)
    - Labor (I found a guy in Massilon who said he'd do my rebuild for around $250, which is pretty damn cheap. If you've never rebuilt a rear before, you're better off leaving it to a pro. I've done 1 1/2 myself, and it's a tough job, no matter what anyone says.)
    + New gears (If you have a M6, most people recommend a 4:10 ratio. Motive Performance, US Gear, and AAM are your best bets. I got my Motive Performance gears for around $185 at Summit.)
    - Loctite (The installer may have this, but you want the red stuff. Make sure he Loctites the ring gear bolts & the crosspin bolt.)
    Well i guess if i need new axles i wont bother checking them. What is a higher spline count, would 28 be fine? And what would price be total for the parts to beef it up as well along with the rebuild parts? or how much did it cost you?
    Last edited by One_Bad_TA; 10-19-2008 at 07:46 PM.

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    I didn't really look into the axles, because I plan on upgrading to a 9" in a year or two, but I'm sure a few of these other guys can give you the info there. Just make sure you match your axle spline count to the differential spline count.

    In my case, I installed everything on that list except the axles, differential (mine was OK) and the diff cover (since I already had one). I would've spent just under $600 for the whole thing @ ~$250 for labor (I did half of the setup myself). If you add in axles, differential, and cover, you're well over a grand.

    If you're at stock power and plan on staying that way, I'd recommend everything on the list except axles, gears, and the cover. While a higher gear ratio makes the car a little quicker, the ring gear teeth are also smaller (i.e. theoretically weaker) than your stock gearing. In my opinion, the gear size is the weakest link on the whole stock rearend, and smaller teeth won't really improve that situation.


    P.S. In case you're curious, in my situation, the rear was modded with 4.10's when I bought it. It was a shitty job though, because the ring gear separated from the differential enough to shear two teeth off the pinion. The moral of the story is to always work with a competent installer.
    Last edited by jcws6; 10-19-2008 at 10:23 PM.

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    Junior Member kingcrab's Avatar
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    Spline count

    The Spline count on the axles and the carrier must match.
    More is generally considered better. Full race axles go to 33 or 35 splines.

    You will be limited on the axles available for Street use.
    26 or 28 maybe 30.

    Remember to ID the ABS ECT you have on the car. Yours could be 3 channel or 4 channel system. 4 channel has the sensors on the axles,,I believe.

  18. #38
    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcws6 View Post
    I didn't really look into the axles, because I plan on upgrading to a 9" in a year or two, but I'm sure a few of these other guys can give you the info there. Just make sure you match your axle spline count to the differential spline count.

    In my case, I installed everything on that list except the axles, differential (mine was OK) and the diff cover (since I already had one). I would've spent just under $600 for the whole thing @ ~$250 for labor (I did half of the setup myself). If you add in axles, differential, and cover, you're well over a grand.

    If you're at stock power and plan on staying that way, I'd recommend everything on the list except axles, gears, and the cover. While a higher gear ratio makes the car a little quicker, the ring gear teeth are also smaller (i.e. theoretically weaker) than your stock gearing. In my opinion, the gear size is the weakest link on the whole stock rearend, and smaller teeth won't really improve that situation.


    P.S. In case you're curious, in my situation, the rear was modded with 4.10's when I bought it. It was a shitty job though, because the ring gear separated from the differential enough to shear two teeth off the pinion. The moral of the story is to always work with a competent installer.
    Hmm. I think i might save up for a ford 9". I can get one for 1900, new. Since the car is in storage I guess Ill wait and get something i wont have to worry about. And next year i guess i could mod it as well

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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    Hmm. I think i might save up for a ford 9". I can get one for 1900, new. Since the car is in storage I guess Ill wait and get something i wont have to worry about. And next year i guess i could mod it as well
    Good call!


    Make that a Moser though.

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    Just a souped up sunfire. Ryans99LS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    Hmm. I think i might save up for a ford 9". I can get one for 1900, new. Since the car is in storage I guess Ill wait and get something i wont have to worry about. And next year i guess i could mod it as well
    Thats what i like to hear.. Ill be getting my cam after the new year.
    What are you planning on doing?

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