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Rear Axle Alignment

This is a discussion on Rear Axle Alignment within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I have a '98 Z28 Camaro that had a half-inch difference in gap from the back of the rear left ...

  1. #1
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    Rear Axle Alignment

    I have a '98 Z28 Camaro that had a half-inch difference in gap from the back of the rear left tire to the bumper than the rear right tire. I was on my way home tonight and raced a little and got some rear axle hop. When I got home, I took a brief look to make sure everything was ok. Now there isn't any difference between the two back tires and the bumper (everything looks perfectly spaced, comparing the left and right sides).

    Does anyone have any ideas as to why this might have happened and what/if anything could be wrong with the car?

    By the way, I got axle hop going around 85 when shifting into fourth gear (TCS light came on, lol).

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    Aftermarket rear end? I think Im understanding what your describing your problem to be. What lower control arm is on the car? An adjustable will let you center the wheel.

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    If things are moving around on you check for worn bushings in your lower control arms and panhard bar, or possibly a broken mount somewhere.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gottalikeexplosives View Post
    By the way, I got axle hop going around 85 when shifting into fourth gear (TCS light came on, lol).
    Time for adjustable LCA's and better tires.


    Does the car have a 9" rearend in it?? Common problem apparently with that bigass housing.
    I know my car had the same problem before getting the UMI double adjustable LCA's.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Time for adjustable LCA's and better tires.


    Does the car have a 9" rearend in it?? Common problem apparently with that bigass housing.
    I know my car had the same problem before getting the UMI double adjustable LCA's.
    Dont know how a 10 bolt would have this problem.

    I didnt have to do any adjusting when I installed my 9". That was nice.

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    Candy Apple Red
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Time for adjustable LCA's and better tires.


    Does the car have a 9" rearend in it?? Common problem apparently with that bigass housing.
    I know my car had the same problem before getting the UMI double adjustable LCA's.
    Actually, it has brand new Sumitomo's. Front (245/40ZR18) Back (275/40ZR19). I'm going to check on the rearend now. I don't think it's stock. I've only owned this car for 3 weeks. Previous owner has this thing getting 480rwhp.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Time for adjustable LCA's and better tires.


    Does the car have a 9" rearend in it?? Common problem apparently with that bigass housing.
    I know my car had the same problem before getting the UMI double adjustable LCA's.
    Ok. This does have a 9" rear end and there is some moisture on the bottom of it and a very slight drip stain underneath it.

    So you recommend using UMI double adjustable lower control arms to fix this? Should I just get the seal replaced on the rearend for the drip?

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    I always say, if it drips then fix it. If it seeps out a little, then its ok to leave it alone.

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    Ok. I found out that the torque arm is cracked and that is why my rear end has been moving. Getting it fixed this weekend and replaced with a double adjustable torque arm.

    Thanks everyone for your inputs!

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    Quote Originally Posted by gottalikeexplosives View Post
    Ok. I found out that the torque arm is cracked and that is why my rear end has been moving. Getting it fixed this weekend and replaced with a double adjustable torque arm.

    Thanks everyone for your inputs!

    Stock or aftermarket torque arm that broke?

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    Pretty sure it was stock.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gottalikeexplosives View Post
    Pretty sure it was stock.

    The stock one is stamped steel. I believe all the aftermarket ones are tubular with plates welded in for support.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gottalikeexplosives View Post
    Actually, it has brand new Sumitomo's.
    Yeah, those are complete shit.
    I was blowing off the 315/35/17's when hitting 4th gear.
    Worst street tire I have had on the car.....Used 275/40/17 Continental's held the power better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    Yeah, those are complete shit.
    I was blowing off the 315/35/17's when hitting 4th gear.
    Worst street tire I have had on the car.....Used 275/40/17 Continental's held the power better.

    My tires are Sumi HTR Z III's. And well, so far, I'd have to object to them being shit. How much power are you getting at the wheels? I'm only getting 480rwhp right now and so far they hold the power quite well. They've also gotten high acclaim on some performance forums I've thumbed through.

    Thanks for your opinion.
    Last edited by gottalikeexplosives; 10-17-2009 at 10:24 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    The stock one is stamped steel. I believe all the aftermarket ones are tubular with plates welded in for support.
    Yes, it definitely was stamped steel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gottalikeexplosives View Post
    My tires are Sumi HTR Z III's. And well, so far, I'd have to object to them being shit. How much power are you getting at the wheels? I'm only getting 480rwhp right now and so far they hold the power quite well. They've also gotten high acclaim on some performance forums I've thumbed through.

    Thanks for your opinion.
    ONLY 480RWHP??
    That is a good amount of power.

    But if you are getting any problems with wheel hop or spinning hitting 4th gear, I would say the tires are problematic.


    I make 430-440RWHP at my altitude. 531 SAE corrected.
    I am yet to find a street tire that holds the power even at altitude. So I run Nitto DR's for the street.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    ONLY 480RWHP??
    That is a good amount of power.

    But if you are getting any problems with wheel hop or spinning hitting 4th gear, I would say the tires are problematic.


    I make 430-440RWHP at my altitude. 531 SAE corrected.
    I am yet to find a street tire that holds the power even at altitude. So I run Nitto DR's for the street.

    Ya, it actually had Nitto DR's on it. They had to be replaced since they were almost bald on the back and pretty low on the front.

    Wow, 531? That's pretty damn good. What do you mean SAE corrected?

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    I live up in the clouds....Denver has thinner air, so the car makes less power with less oxygen. We tend to be about a second slower at our track than the sea level tracks.

    All dynos correct to a certain standard, and SAE is that standard. Just the correction factors aren't normally like 1.22 that we get here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    I live up in the clouds....Denver has thinner air, so the car makes less power with less oxygen. We tend to be about a second slower at our track than the sea level tracks.

    All dynos correct to a certain standard, and SAE is that standard. Just the correction factors aren't normally like 1.22 that we get here.
    Thanks for the explanation. Ya, 1.22 does sound pretty damn high.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mr. Luos View Post
    i live up in the clouds....denver has thinner air, so the car makes less power with less oxygen. We tend to be about a second slower at our track than the sea level tracks.

    All dynos correct to a certain standard, and sae is that standard. Just the correction factors aren't normally like 1.22 that we get here.

    F o r c e d I n d u c t i o n!


    Feed Slowass some air and lets see what happens.

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