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Read End Pinion Seal

This is a discussion on Read End Pinion Seal within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I also had 2 GM techs making sure I did everything ok. Granted the method was different than above, but ...

  1. #21
    Member 98Hardtop's Avatar
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    I also had 2 GM techs making sure I did everything ok. Granted the method was different than above, but these guys have been doing it that way for years.

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    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    yes, i have spent many hours swearing i would run out to buy air tools only to suffer without them time and time again. I don't have air tools, but i am convinced they make every thing easier. One day, one day I will have the money. I have the spot in my garage reserved and ready. I even put in a new 20 amp breaker, just waiting patiently.

    i still haven't changed it yet. We tackle our project list one pay check at a time, to make sure we don't spend out of control. This weekend is new radiator hose clamps for the Sebring. I may pick this weekend to try the pinion seal. I am so afraid I will get have way through it and get stuck. Or worse do the whole job and have a drip leak because i crushed something.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    I would say it'll be very difficult to retighten the pinion nut without an 1/2" impact. You need to be able to bolt something to the pinion flange that you can wedge against the body or the ground while you use a 24" breaker bar to tighten the pinion nut.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    I would say it'll be very difficult to retighten the pinion nut without an 1/2" impact. You need to be able to bolt something to the pinion flange that you can wedge against the body or the ground while you use a 24" breaker bar to tighten the pinion nut.
    its not easy and normaly requires a good non homofobic freind to be stuck under the car with you will need to be provided

  5. #25
    Member 98Hardtop's Avatar
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    I took the liberty to make a How To. This is how we did it.

    *Disclaimer. I am not an expert and this was my first time attempting this. I am sure there are easier and better ways to do this, but this method worked for me. Sorry I did not get any pictures. Of course I work with 2 former Gm technicians and they helped me through this to make sure I didn't screw it up

    Tools needed:
    11mm wrench
    34mm socket
    Hammer
    Chisel/punch
    Flat head screw driver
    Jack stands and a jack

    * It is highly recommended to use an impact gun during this repair. Otherwise it can make tightening the pinion nut pretty difficult.


    First thing you have to do is raise the vehicle up into the air. I used a lift at my work so that made the job that much easier. It can be done with jack stands but will make it more time consuming.

    Once supported, take your 11mm wrench and undo the 4 bolts that hold the driveshaft to the yoke. Remove the driveshaft to allow room for the impact gun.

    What you need to do now is scribe into the nut, yoke and gear all in the same place to mark as a reference. I used a punch and hammer. I also counted the amount of threads the nut was on. You need to do this so when you put it back together it is at the same spot for torque reference.

    Remove the nut with an impact gun using the 34mm socket. You may get some gear fluid onto you, so be prepared. You may have to tap on the backside of the yoke to get it to come out.

    Once the yoke is out you will need a flathead screwdriver and either pry or chisel out the old pinion seal. Once the old one is out you can place the new one in. I used a hammer and hammered it in evenly on all sides on the outside edges of the seal. This process requires using the right amount of force. You don’t want to hammer to hard or too light.

    Now you reverse your steps to reassemble everything.

    Notes- I also took some emery cloth and cleaned up the inside of the yoke to make sure any burrs were removed.
    Also when tightening the nut, if you go past your marks DO NOT BACK IT OUT! leave it where it is.

    If I am missing anything on this, please feel free to post up.

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  6. #26
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Sounds about dead on to me! Good write up!

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Don't forget to apply sealant on the splines,,,,or you'll have a leak all over again,,,coming out through the nut/washer.

  8. #28
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    I would say it'll be very difficult to retighten the pinion nut without an 1/2" impact. You need to be able to bolt something to the pinion flange that you can wedge against the body or the ground while you use a 24" breaker bar to tighten the pinion nut.
    Exactly, I mentioned earlier in here somewhere that I made a tool to bolt to the yoke out of 4 inch flat stock, with a hole drilled in the middle.
    Also perfect for checking preload on posi unit clutch packs.

  9. #29
    Member 98Hardtop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Sounds about dead on to me! Good write up!
    Thanks. I replaced a trans mount yesterday and no leaks.

  10. #30
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    thanks to everyone

  11. #31
    Member 98Hardtop's Avatar
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    I take it went ok?

  12. #32
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    funny, we sold the car for the Silver 02, my avatar.

    I'm have resurrected the thread to ask a follow up question.

    Would you have oil goo in the tunnel above the yoke if the pinion seal was leaky?

    I noticed on the 02 the carrier is dirty gooey filthy. There is oil stained gunk around the edge of the cover and on the fill side it is nasty and gooey.

    the tunnel area looks clean though. my 99 had under body coating and always made it hard to spot stuff. this 02 does not, so i can clearly see silver paint above the yoke area.

    the passenger side of the carrier is the nastiest. the drivers side for some reason looks clean-ish. of course the torque arm is on the drivers side, lol...

    i also noticed the passenger side of the axle shaft is yucky and the driver side is just rusty.

    it seems about half of the goo under there looks old and dry. The rest seems newer and you can easily finger wipe it off. Kind of like nice oil road grim goo and dirt.


    when i was first under their i wrote it off as someone made a huge mess since it seemed to only be around the fill plug. Maybe it is maybe not. I know I always wipe down my mess so not sure.

    now i wish i had taken pics of my old 99 or had it in the drive way. I can't remember all of it, damn old age, lol...

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