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Pinion seal question

This is a discussion on Pinion seal question within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; So my 10 bolt is leaking again, a while back I had an issue with the axle and pinion seals ...

  1. #1
    Army Dude robcas47's Avatar
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    Pinion seal question

    So my 10 bolt is leaking again, a while back I had an issue with the axle and pinion seals leaking so when I had my cam/stall done I had both of those fixed. I didnt have any leaks until about a month ago I noticed a few drops here and there and now I've had a small puddle. I serviced the rear end with a bottle of oil and after about a week I noticed another small puddle. It's not like it's all dumping out after I service it, but after driving for a few days it suddenly lets out what looks to be about a cup of oil. I've pinpointed to the pinion seal and went to get a quote on the fix at the local dealer here in town. I got two different quotes, one was for about $80 to fix/replace just the seals, the other was just over $300 if it has a bad crush washer. So the ? is why so much for a crush washer fix/replacement? What makes it so much of a PITA for labor costs?

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    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    To replace the washer you have to take the hole thing apart to get to it and there is a torqe spec it has to be crushed to the seal all it is is the yoke net comes of and you can get to the seal
    "The Camaro SS looks like it could kick your ass. The Trans Am WS6 looks like its on its way over to do it."

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    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    the crush sleeve is to set the preload on the inner and outer bearings for the pinion... if the first shop didnt tighten it tight enough then the pinion could move alittle when driving causeing the pinion seal to wear prematurely if it is tightened too tight then you would have premature bearing failure in both cases you would probably hear noise coming from the rear end.... they should not have to disassemble it that far to replace a seal...

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    Army Dude robcas47's Avatar
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    I'm hoping it is just the seal and it seems like that may be the case since it doesn't leak bad unless I drive it for a day or two. My first thought about the crush washer was that it acted as some sort of a retainer for the seals. I guess I was a bit off on that one, but that's why I couldn't understand why the cost difference was there. We use these types of washers in our helicopters fuel system and always need replacement whenever removed, so again I was stuck wondering what the deal was with the difference in cost for a part I thought would probably need replacing either way.

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    What Would Earl Do? Vexzer's Avatar
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    Just in case..
    If the yoke is damaged, you do not have to replace it. Your local bearing distributor will have a product by Redi-Sleeve. a Redi-sleeve is a sleeve that installs over the damaged seal area and fixes it. Search for Purvis or Bohls Bearing for an example of what you are looking for in your market. A Redi-Sleeve for my 12-bolt was $37.00 .

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    Army Dude robcas47's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vexzer View Post
    Just in case..
    If the yoke is damaged, you do not have to replace it. Your local bearing distributor will have a product by Redi-Sleeve. a Redi-sleeve is a sleeve that installs over the damaged seal area and fixes it. Search for Purvis or Bohls Bearing for an example of what you are looking for in your market. A Redi-Sleeve for my 12-bolt was $37.00 .
    Very good advice Vexzer, Thanks. Had it checked out today and was told the exact same thing, More than likely it's the seal and I'll get it fixed in a couple days.

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    Army Dude robcas47's Avatar
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    Ok so I'm gonna do the seal myses directly lf since it's not as complicated as I originally thought. My next question is whether or not the pinion bearing is directly behind the seal. If so should I replace the bearing, too?

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    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    It will be to hard to replace the bearing properly without removing the pinion... When I say properly that is removing the bearing race

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    Army Dude robcas47's Avatar
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    OK, I'll just do the seal for now and hopefully this fixes the leak. Need a 12 bolt, this will definitely fix the leak

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    What Would Earl Do? Vexzer's Avatar
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    Be sure to punch mark the nut and shaft and count or take a picture of the exposed threads or something similar. You want to at least be sure you set the nut back to the original position before loosening. Too tight affects the bearing & crush sleeve. Too loose is too loose. Probably a good idea to use Locktite since some of the original bolt tension will be lost. Have Fun!

  11. #11
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by My00Z28 View Post
    It will be to hard to replace the bearing properly without removing the pinion... When I say properly that is removing the bearing race
    You cannot replace the pinion bearings without taking the whole pinion shaft out. Which means pretty much taking the whole differential apart, then removing the pinion bearings, then the pressed in race in the differential housing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vexzer View Post
    Be sure to punch mark the nut and shaft and count or take a picture of the exposed threads or something similar. You want to at least be sure you set the nut back to the original position before loosening. Too tight affects the bearing & crush sleeve. Too loose is too loose. Probably a good idea to use Locktite since some of the original bolt tension will be lost. Have Fun!

    Yes this. At least tighten the big pinion nut back to where it was. (unless you find that the pinion shaft is loose, which is why the new seal failed. Then you have to go with your gut feeling about how tight to make the nut, as a rule of thumb, keep tightening until you no longer have any end play and maybe 1/8 turn more.)

    And yes, the bearing is directly behind the seal, but when you take off the yoke, you will see why it can't be changed without dissassembling the whole thing.

    Love your avatar, BTW!

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    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    You cannot replace the pinion bearings without taking the whole pinion shaft out. Which means pretty much taking the whole differential apart, then removing the pinion bearings, then the pressed in race in the differential housing.
    The front pinion bearing(roller) can be replaced but removing the race is nearly impossible without removing the pinion, and replacing the rear pinion bearing you must remove the pinion and press off the bearing!!!

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    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    ^^^Oh yeah, right you are. But like you say, why would anyone replace just the bearing and not the race?

    That's like saying, just put a new oil filter on and don't change my oil lol.

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    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    ^^^Oh yeah, right you are. But like you say, why would anyone replace just the bearing and not the race?

    That's like saying, just put a new oil filter on and don't change my oil lol.
    Haha yup

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