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one wheel burnouts

This is a discussion on one wheel burnouts within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; hey guys, I know I should switch to a 12 bolt but for the time being I don't have the ...

  1. #1
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    one wheel burnouts

    hey guys, I know I should switch to a 12 bolt but for the time being I don't have the money for that. In my 98 a4 z28 I'm gettin 1 wheel burnouts out of the(as far as I know) stock 10 bolt. Are there rebuild kits or does the diff itself have to be replaced for this? I've been looking around and I cant find anything on it and haven't found any rebuild kits.
    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Sold: LS1 '85 El Camino ls1camino's Avatar
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    You need a limited slip rear end. Due to the rotation of your driveshaft, the right (passenger) side of the axle lifts slightly which with a standard rear end allows all power to go to the wheel that has the least traction resulting in the single tire burnout.

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    Senior Member Z28_Driver's Avatar
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    Didn't all the V8 car come with a limited slip as standard equipment?

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    James Bond Spikito's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1camino View Post
    You need a limited slip rear end. Due to the rotation of your driveshaft, the right (passenger) side of the axle lifts slightly which with a standard rear end allows all power to go to the wheel that has the least traction resulting in the single tire burnout.
    I always wondered how that worked

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
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    I think 98's have the auburn cone posi as standard equipment. Its probably worn out. You need a new posi like one of these:
    Eaton:

    Auburn:

    Torsen:

  6. #6
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    ok thanks guys.
    So far one of the few things I miss about my mustang. Less than $50 to rebuild the track lock haha

  7. #7
    Impounded
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    You could also go for a detroit trutrac, they're pretty good. On an m6 I would just save for a different rear end but with an a4, it might hold up with a girdle cover and new center section

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    That would be cool
    Would this be the right one?
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DTL-911A415/
    gotta say that was a lot cheeper than I was thinking

  9. #9
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    Car Craft had a recent article on all the different types of posi units and this was deemed the best one for a street car. Also, the True Trac does not utilize any cones or clutches, therefore, you do not need limited slip additive and you will never have any "chatter".

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
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    Quote Originally Posted by pk222 View Post
    That would be cool
    Would this be the right one?
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DTL-911A415/
    gotta say that was a lot cheeper than I was thinking
    NO
    Thats a 26 spline 2 series. You need 28 spline, 3 series.
    edit: Oops one question...What gear ratio do you have?
    Last edited by Cutlass; 01-03-2010 at 07:41 AM. Reason: add a question

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    I think I have 3.23s. 60 in over drive at around 2000 rpm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pk222 View Post
    I think I have 3.23s. 60 in over drive at around 2000 rpm.

    Unless something has been changed, you can can check the RPO codes on the back edge of your driver door. Here is a listing of the codes: http://performanceworks1.com/LS1%20r...tion_codes.htm Note: Link is to info stickied under "General Help".

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    the axle ratio is gu5 so that would be 3.23s if it is the factory gear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pk222 View Post
    the axle ratio is gu5 so that would be 3.23s if it is the factory gear.
    Same as our car -- GU5. You can always put it up on jackstands and turn the driveshaft by hand to check it. Should take approximately 3-1/4 turns to make the tire go around one time.

  15. #15
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    I think 98's have the auburn cone posi as standard equipment. Its probably worn out. You need a new posi like one of these:
    Thats whats wrong with my Auburn diff, the cone clutches are worn creating excessive play in the driver's side axle. It will still spin both tires in a straight line, but in any situation where one tire has significantly more traction than the other (such as in a hard turn) it will just light up the wheel with less traction. For that reason I'd reccommend against the OP replacing his current Auburn with another one, there are much better options.

    I'd definitely consider the Detroit TruTrac, I've heard good things about those. I would stay away from a locker though, they are better suited to trucks. A locking rear only engages both tires after a certain amount of wheel slip takes place, so it would still spin one tire momentarily on hard straight line acceleration, and it could cause instability in a turn if it locks mid-corner.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 SGM
    Lid, Pro 5.0, WS6 Short Stick, LS7 Clutch, TB Bypass, Detroit TrueTrac, Poly Mounts, Bilstein Shocks, LS6 Intake, SFCs, CTS-V Brake Upgrade, STB, Nitto 555's. SS Longtube Headers and True Duals w/ H pipe and Magnaflows. Tuned by Harris Speed Works. 341.4WHP/346.1 lb/ft.

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    Thats whats wrong with my Auburn diff, the cone clutches are worn creating excessive play in the driver's side axle. It will still spin both tires in a straight line, but in any situation where one tire has significantly more traction than the other (such as in a hard turn) it will just light up the wheel with less traction. For that reason I'd reccommend against the OP replacing his current Auburn with another one, there are much better options.

    I'd definitely consider the Detroit TruTrac, I've heard good things about those. I would stay away from a locker though, they are better suited to trucks. A locking rear only engages both tires after a certain amount of wheel slip takes place, so it would still spin one tire momentarily on hard straight line acceleration, and it could cause instability in a turn if it locks mid-corner.
    I got the same problem
    Might consider a tru-trac for that reason
    Rear needs to be done soon anyways, and i dont have cash for the 12-bolt just yet

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    I thought lockers were full time locked all the time? I definitely don't want that for a dd in my are with all the tight turns and cliffs.
    It has 3.23s I checked.

  18. #18
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pk222 View Post
    I thought lockers were full time locked all the time? I definitely don't want that for a dd in my are with all the tight turns and cliffs.
    It has 3.23s I checked.
    No, a spool is locked all the time. The problem with that is you won't be able to turn very well, and every time you do, you squeal and chew up the rear tires. Spools are good for straight line drag racing only, you can't go around turns with them.

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    I understand the problems with a spools on the street but was thinking that lockers were almost as bad on the street.
    So what should I be looking for? I'm guessing the trutrac

  20. #20
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pk222 View Post
    I understand the problems with a spools on the street but was thinking that lockers were almost as bad on the street.
    So what should I be looking for? I'm guessing the trutrac
    Basically a clutch type or gear type limited slip. Eaton makes some of the best, either the Eaton Posi or Detroit TruTrac would be a good choice.

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