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New PST driveshaft way to close to exhaust!

This is a discussion on New PST driveshaft way to close to exhaust! within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Well, It appears this new PST driveshaft is slightly larger then stock. Maybe a .5 inch? Either way, it seems ...

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    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    New PST driveshaft way to close to exhaust!

    Well, It appears this new PST driveshaft is slightly larger then stock. Maybe a .5 inch? Either way, it seems VERY close to this one off custom exhaust and im worried about it rubbing and screwing up my 400 dollar driveshaft. What do you guys think? I would have to take the exhaust out and drive to a exhaust shop, it will be so effing loud! Hopefully I could get some new piping made up to move the I pipe over slightly.






    Too close right?

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    Heres the same shot put I rotated it


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    Damn! Looks like you're running dual driveshafts. That is pretty tight. I'm trying to picture the panhard bar setup -- it would be pushing the rear away from the exhaust if I remember right. Probably depends on how much wobble you have in both your rear end and exhaust mounts, but it does look like they can make contact. Any chance of pulling your exhaust away from it just a bit towards the rear of the car? Another 1/2" might do it since there would be little or no side-to-side motion near the front of the exhaust and driveshaft.

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    Well, I can move the exhuast to the right (passenger) about 1/4 or so. Im looking for any way to keep this exhaust party because I really like the sound, I think it flows great and im getting broke. Any suggestions would be welcomed. As it stands right now. Im going to put it on the ground tomorrow and take it for a short slow spin and then put it back up and check. If it shows any signs of rubbing my 400 piece of driveshaft, im take that pipe off and trying to get everything to a decent exaust shop. It will be so loud ill have a hard time getting around some of the police around my town.

    Note, if I can get the ehaust to the right even a full 1/4 inch... I would be comfortable with that clearance. That would give me roughly 3/4" clearance.

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    Holy mother of god HI-PO! Looks like you been buyin' parts @ a Mack truck shop. jk. Could you possibly have a shop put a slight crease along the side of the pipe? Nothing major but just enough to give ya maybe another .5 in.? I definetly think it's way too close. I think one good bump and it will scrape as is. Other than that I like it! I likey alot!
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    Are your rear exhaust mounts the factory "rubber" style? If so, you may just want to run a piece of wire from the mount to the body to put some tension on the system and pull it away from your driveshaft. It's cheap, ugly as hell, and 100% redneck, but it may give you just a bit more clearance. I would really hate to see you mark up that new driveshaft.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    Holy mother of god HI-PO! Looks like you been buyin' parts @ a Mack truck shop. jk. Could you possibly have a shop put a slight crease along the side of the pipe? Nothing major but just enough to give ya maybe another .5 in.? I definetly think it's way too close. I think one good bump and it will scrape as is. Other than that I like it! I likey alot!
    eh, I might be able to do that. When you get down to it, a TD 2.5" setup has more cross section area then one single 4". I want this setup to work, but I dont want it to cost me an arm and a leg.

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    Does it look that way when the car is lower on the ground, ive noticed that the driveshaft comes real close the the exhuast when in the air but when lowered its not a issue. I dont know how yours is exactly other then the picture of it as your car is lifted.

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    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    honestly i would just have a new exhaust made man.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Are your rear exhaust mounts the factory "rubber" style? If so, you may just want to run a piece of wire from the mount to the body to put some tension on the system and pull it away from your driveshaft. It's cheap, ugly as hell, and 100% redneck, but it may give you just a bit more clearance. I would really hate to see you mark up that new driveshaft.
    Yes, stock rubber hangers.

    Thats what I was going to do. Red neck I can handle Scaring up a brand new PST driveshaft I cant

    But I need to pull it to the right. I didnt look for anything to pull on/tie wire to over there.

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    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Yes, stock rubber hangers.

    Thats what I was going to do. Red neck I can handle Scaring up a brand new PST driveshaft I cant

    But I need to pull it to the right. I didnt look for anything to pull on/tie wire to over there.

    i think eventually the tie or wire would give with the bumps and just road vibration.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zboner View Post
    honestly i would just have a new exhaust made man.
    Honestly, I have spent 6000+ dollars on this TA in a few months man.

    Im getting broke, and seriously need to stop dropping big money on this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    eh, I might be able to do that. When you get down to it, a TD 2.5" setup has more cross section area then one single 4". I want this setup to work, but I dont want it to cost me an arm and a leg.
    I gotcha, I was'nt tryin' to be a dick, I really do like that exhaust. My eyes fell outta my head when I first saw it.LOL Just sweet dude very sweet.

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    Run it....if it hits, I highly doubt it breaks anything, it'll probably just leave a lil line in the DS. If it doesn't hit, great....if it does, THEN you spend the $$$ to change it.

    -Will

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    Senior Member Zboner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Honestly, I have spent 6000+ dollars on this TA in a few months man.

    Im getting broke, and seriously need to stop dropping big money on this.

    trust me im not far behind man, not far at all

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    I think that if you lift and support the car by the body and let the rear end down to its full droop, the panhard will pull the rearend (and DS) slightly closer to the exhaust and you can see how close it really can get. You might also try wiggling the exhaust to see if it can wiggle towards and touch the DS.
    Maybe you could loosen up some clamps, tweek it/twist it over and retighten. Or try bending you exhaust hangers. If for nothing else, then to at least be able to drive it with the exhaust on to an exhaust shop.
    Overall it looks like it might rub at some point.
    Last edited by Cutlass; 06-09-2009 at 07:07 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    I think that if you lift and support the car by the body and let the rear end down to its full droop, the panhard will pull the rear slightly closer to the exhaust and you can see how close it really can get. You might also try wiggling the exhaust to see if it can wiggle towards and touch the DS.
    Maybe you could loosen up some clamps, tweek it/twist it over and retighten. Or try bending you exhaust hangers. If for nothing else, then to at least be able to drive it with the exhaust on to an exhaust shop.
    Overall it looks like it might rub at some point.
    The car is up in air and rear end is in a full drop postion in those pictures. I will try and bend some hangers tomorrow, maybe tonight. You think when the suspension is loaded it might get further away? Didnt think about that honestly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by karpetcm View Post
    Does it look that way when the car is lower on the ground, ive noticed that the driveshaft comes real close the the exhuast when in the air but when lowered its not a issue. I dont know how yours is exactly other then the picture of it as your car is lifted.
    Im going to give that a shot. Hopefully I gain .5 inch or more. Thanks guys.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    a TD 2.5" setup has more cross section area then one single 4". I want this setup to work, but I dont want it to cost me an arm and a leg.
    Actually if you do the math the mufflex system comes out ahead,,,it looks like this.....

    Single 4 inch,,,
    (pi*(4/2)^2 = 12.6in^2)

    Dual 2.5",,,,
    (2*pi*(2.5/2)^2 = 9.8in^2)

    That's confusing as hell

    The single 4 inch will also have less surface area per unit of length than the dual 2.5" so there will be less friction along the wall.

    Now that I've confused the hell out of myself I would do what ever necessary to just make some clearance. Minor adjustment is all you need. I think you can make it work

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Actually if you do the math the mufflex system comes out ahead,,,it looks like this.....

    Single 4 inch,,,
    (pi*(4/2)^2 = 12.6in^2)

    Dual 2.5",,,,
    (2*pi*(2.5/2)^2 = 9.8in^2)

    That's confusing as hell

    The single 4 inch will also have less surface area per unit of length than the dual 2.5" so there will be less friction along the wall.

    Now that I've confused the hell out of myself I would do what ever necessary to just make some clearance. Minor adjustment is all you need. I think you can make it work
    Hmmm, I did my math also. Well, I had some help I got different but Im sure I did it wrong

    I do want this to work, just trying to get some info on how to. I might go drop the cra right now, im very curious how much, if anything that gains me.

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