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My 8.8 Rear Build

This is a discussion on My 8.8 Rear Build within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Now zero out the housing again so you can clock the housing ends correctly. Prior to putting them on the ...

  1. #101
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Now zero out the housing again so you can clock the housing ends correctly.






    Prior to putting them on the center rod I made angle measurement and what side the housing goes too.

    (someone at the machine shop can't spell, My last name isn't Alex, and it should read Axle )






    Here is the housing end in place and clocked for welding.

    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 08-23-2012 at 07:35 PM.

  2. #102
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Now I have 2 question..



    1st question:


    These are from a 97 LT1 TA. Are these the same as 98-02 yrs?




    2nd Question:

    I counted the ABS ring on both the 10 bolt and 8.8 differentials. The 8.8 ABS ring has 107 teeth while the 10 bolt ABS ring has 106.


    My question - If I was to splice a 10 bolt ABS wire harness to the Ford ABS sensor, shouldn't this work? I can't see one tooth difference being an issue?

  3. #103
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    That's the way to do it

    On the first question,,,,no. Those are for 97 and down calipers which have the e-brake built into the caliper and a different (smaller) rotor. Completely different setup for the 98-02 setup which uses a backing plate (like a drum brake setup) but instead of drum brakes you have e-brake shoes, and a different rotor with a small drum on the inside for the e-brake shoes, and the rotor is slightly larger diameter as well.

    On the second question,,,,I'm thinking you are speaking of a 3 channel sensor with a rather large reluctor wheel on the posi unit?

    On the 4 channel with reluctor wheels on the axles,,,they have 47 teeth.

  4. #104
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    That's the way to do it

    On the first question,,,,no. Those are for 97 and down calipers which have the e-brake built into the caliper and a different (smaller) rotor. Completely different setup for the 98-02 setup which uses a backing plate (like a drum brake setup) but instead of drum brakes you have e-brake shoes, and a different rotor with a small drum on the inside for the e-brake shoes, and the rotor is slightly larger diameter as well.


    Ok thought so just wanted to confirm.


    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    On the second question,,,,I'm thinking you are speaking of a 3 channel sensor with a rather large reluctor wheel on the posi unit?

    On the 4 channel with reluctor wheels on the axles,,,they have 47 teeth.
    Yes I am talking 3 channel ABS. I don't have TCS or 4 channel on my car. I'm not to worried about losing ABS, but if I can make it work, it's worth the try.

  5. #105
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Not sure what the extra tooth would do, would be interesting to find out though

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    Very slick setup. Looks like you may get this wrapped up before Christmas!

  7. #107
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Jeff I hope much, much sooner. Hell I want my transmission rebuild by then.


    Well I got word this morning from my friend that is doing all the welding that two things may delay him welding. (1) His job is taking him out of town for a couple of weeks and (2) We are now in the cone of Tropical Storm that may tune into Hurricane Isaac.


    So I might be on idle for a few weeks till he gets back.


    I hope he's able to weld the housing ends this weekend, if he's able to I can still work on other stuff while he's gone like installing the gears and pinon. I have to have the housing ends on before I can order the axles.




    FBJ - do you have to have the axles in order to figure out the back lash and stuff?

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    She-Member jrbonds's Avatar
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    Im ready to see end results!


  9. #109
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    FBJ - do you have to have the axles in order to figure out the back lash and stuff?
    Nope. Pinion bearing preload is determined with an inch lbs. wrench with the pinion being the only thing in the housing. Then the carrier with ring gear to set back lash with a dial indicator while holding the pinion completely still. Carrier may have to come in and out a few times to get the backlash you are looking for. Then axles etc...

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    2nd Question:

    I counted the ABS ring on both the 10 bolt and 8.8 differentials. The 8.8 ABS ring has 107 teeth while the 10 bolt ABS ring has 106.


    My question - If I was to splice a 10 bolt ABS wire harness to the Ford ABS sensor, shouldn't this work? I can't see one tooth difference being an issue?
    I think there is a 95% chance it won't work. There are alot of variables that could throw off this idea.
    One tooth will throw off the reading by 1/2 mph at highway speeds which should be ok, but might give you problems. Depends on how sensitive the system is.
    But bigger problems are the internal resistance of the Ford sensor and the GM sensor. If the resistance of the ford sensor doesn't fall within the specs of the GM ABS system, the ABS light could pop on and disable the system.
    The other thing I can think of is the signal output of the Ford sensor compared to the GM sensor. Its possible the signal voltage could be too high or too low.
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  11. #111
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    Why do you want the housing welded before ordering the axles? I am in process of building an 8.8 for my 02 Camaro. I was planning to buy the axles first so I could use them in fit up of the correct housing width. Looking good so far. I will be following this thread. A portaband is an awesome tool isn't it?

  12. #112
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Because if you pre-order the axles you will be taking a huge chance of miss measuring the axle length in comparison to the total axle length. If you are off a 1/8th too much in either direction effects alot. Moser has an order sheet that takes the guess work out but you need to have precise measurements. Also if I was using 28 spline axles I could just used my f body axles and stay with the 10 bolt axle ends. By going with 31 spline axles and 9" housing ends I eliminate the c clips. So I have to wait to order the axles.I've been holding back on the final mapping of the measurements between the 2 rears because I wanted to finish and make sure it all works. I can pm it to you as long as you understand that you need to verify on your own 10 bolt.

  13. #113
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    I am still confused. The way I am reading your post, you are saying you want to build the housing first to measure for the axles. Basically building the axles to match the housing. Why not build the housing to match the length of the axles? Make the new axles the same length as the 10 bolt axles and then build the housing to suit the axles. Are you concerned you can not build the housing that precise? I do not intend to argue, just to understand your decision. I feel comfortable I can build the housing to the exact length I need to suit a pair of axles, but if I am missing something I don't want to make an expensive mistake. Thanks for humoring my ignorance.

    I also plan to upgrade to the 31 spline axles and 9" ends.

  14. #114
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    No problems in asking. Hell I still do. Ask FBJ.....

    I did build the rear to the exact 10 bolt measurements. All my measurements are based off the pinon center line. After I get it all tack up I'll measure again before final welds. When welding the tubes can shift because of the heat. That is why it's best to wait.


    Now I could just order the axles to f body length, but Moser rep highly suggestion it is better that I wait till all welding is done. That way there's no chance I make a mistake. Having an axle to a little long can be adjusted, however if it's too short you're screwed.



    Now I've been using several sources as guides for this build. Mostly on tech haven't explain in as much detail or show any mistakes as I've done. I don't know if all of them are already experts or just don't care to share that much info.

    I know no one has posted a thread like this here so in part that is why I've been doing one here.

  15. #115
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Well at least I was able to get something done today. With Hurricane Isaac all work stuff has stopped for me and my welder so I went over this afternoon and we burned in the 9" housing ends











    I'll let them sit and cool for a while before I remove the jig.

  16. #116
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    Looks good. What's next on the agenda?

  17. #117
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Save $$$$ for axles, ring & pinon. Fab the upper control tabs and weld.

  18. #118
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  19. #119
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Thanks Mud.




    A set of Yukon 4.11 ring & pinon gears ($224) are being shipped today. I'll also pick up the tubing up that needed the inside diameter opened to 1"ID later today for the upper control arms.



    What's left make/order - fab some more tabs, weld up the upper control arms, order axles (That will now have to wait for Oct 1st).



    Wow I think I can see the light at the end, just hope it's not an oncoming train.....



    ***Edit***

    I also need to vent the pressure from the housings, researching on what/how to do this.


    FBJ - if you see this, throw me a bone please.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 08-31-2012 at 09:07 AM.

  20. #120
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    If you want the factory plastic vent in the top with the little cap,,,,you can drill the cast iron center pumpkin to size and it's just a press fit. There should be a flat area on top of the center section somewhere for this if the 8.8 didn't have it already....or

    Drill and tap the center cast iron pumpking (1/4" pipe tap is large enough) and install a simple pipe thread nipple,,attach a hose,,,and you can run the hose up to the floor of the car and attach it. The end of the hose will also have one of the plastic vents on the end to keep debri out.

    Another method that you'll see on alot of your OEM 9" fords and some of your aftermarket 9" fords, Dana's, and 12 bolts is dilling the axle tube on the top side, tap it and install a brass nipple of some form.

    I personally like to use the highest point I can find a flat surface on the center section.

    What ever is easier for you.....but if you need one of those plastic vents,,,,rob it out of the 7.5 you had. With a little wiggling and twisting they usually come right out. The plastic cap on top that is loose (for venting) just snaps on and off,,,the actual tube is just a press fit in the housing. You could use that hole size as a base for drilling the new hole in the 8.8 center section and just press it in there.

    On a side note,,,I've actually pressure washed the bottom side of a car before and blew those little plastic vents right out of the housing They don't press in there very tight.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 08-31-2012 at 09:53 AM.

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