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My 8.8 Rear Build

This is a discussion on My 8.8 Rear Build within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Parts is good. I was glad to be able to ditch the c-clips when I switched over to the 12 ...

  1. #81
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    Parts is good. I was glad to be able to ditch the c-clips when I switched over to the 12 bolt. Looks like my passenger side oil seal is leaking on her though.

  2. #82
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Parts is good. I was glad to be able to ditch the c-clips when I switched over to the 12 bolt. Looks like my passenger side oil seal is leaking on her though.
    What type of axle seal did they send in yours? Strange setup or Moser?

    Did you assembly the axles yourself or have them sent in pieces so you could put your backing plates on?

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    Moser. I had to press on the bearings and retainers after swapping over my backing plates.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Moser. I had to press on the bearings and retainers after swapping over my backing plates.
    Ah okay. Do you remember what style of axle seal used? I assume you used the street axle with taper bearing and seal?

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    All too familiar with axle seal leaks...
    It's on jackstands.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Ah okay. Do you remember what style of axle seal used? I assume you used the street axle with taper bearing and seal?
    What axle seal would you recommend?


    Like to know prior to ordering my axles.

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    All too familiar with axle seal leaks...

    I was kind of hoping you would fly out and fix mine.

  8. #88
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Well, I've had issues in the past with Moser axle seals leaking but I haven't used them in years. Their design may have changed since then, which is why I was wondering what style Jeff had. I'm betting it's something different now, but it's somewhat unusual to have a leaking axle seal on something that is fairly new and seldom driven, made me curious as to what exactly he had.

    Strange uses a seal that resembles a cup (I'll look for a pic) and I've never had an issue with that style.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    More parts...



    These are some beef Heim Joints....




    Couple of more things to go...... it's going to be a long week......

  10. #90
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    More stuff rolling in.....

    Appoligize for the pic quality....for some reason the plastic is messing up the auto focus on my phone.



    Damn FBJ, you told me these were beefy but I didn't think they would be that beefy....







    Those vs stock comparison. This is just sad....








    These will be for the upper control arm mounting tabs. Yes I know they are a little big and I may need to trim down some. But I don't think it will be a weak point....


    3/8" thick











    Sorry if I seem unusually giddy about getting parts in. I'm just at that point where I want to finish it.



    Now that I got this stuff I can start making some progress again.





    Stuff left to come in or order is:

    Moser 8.8 cover, Richmond 4.10 ring & pinon (this still makes me mad that I screwed this up. This money could have gone to a cut-out ) and Moser 31 spline axles.

  11. #91
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    Stuff looks heavy dooooty to me. Don't know if we'll be able to call it "Spaz proof" once you are done, but I bet it'll be close.

  12. #92
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Got the housing cover today.




    I also went and ordered an Axle Alignment Jig * to be fab up by the machine shop I've been using.

    I'll need it in order to weld the 9" axle bearing housings, I should get it by Wed next week.

    So this will add $175 to the build total. I look at it as a tool investment, etc so I'm not completely going to add to the bottom line.

    This may set my time line back a little because I had to dip into the funds for the ring & pinon/axles. We'll see.











    * - Supershafts, you were right in that I would need this at some point, please don't gloat.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 08-17-2012 at 09:38 AM.

  13. #93
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    I have the same cover for my 12 bolt. Still fighting with the drain plug on it. Stripped the threads out the first time I removed it so I had to drill and tap it out to the next size. Used pipe joint compound on the new plug and when I went to remove it this spring I found that it is seized -- not a clue.

  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I have the same cover for my 12 bolt. Still fighting with the drain plug on it. Stripped the threads out the first time I removed it so I had to drill and tap it out to the next size. Used pipe joint compound on the new plug and when I went to remove it this spring I found that it is seized -- not a clue.
    Yeah, steel and aluminum don't mix well together (corrosion) Some type of metallergy reaction that is too scientific for me to explain But usually putting pipe dope on there would cure any issues so long as it comes back off in a couple years.

    I think it doesn't like you

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    My thoughts exactly. I know I pulled everything apart and checked it before installing it on the car. No clue what went awry, but "not liking me" is as good an explanation as any.

  16. #96
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Last of this round of parts came today.

    Strange 8.8 Spool Bearings Master build kit



  17. #97
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I just love free stuff....

    Just scored a 8"x24"x3/8" steel flat stock for free......











    this will allow me to finish making my UCA bracket tabs. Too bad I couldn't have gotten this 2 weeks ago. Could have saved me $60.



  18. #98
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    Steel isn't cheap like it used to be. I spent a few bucks on the rectangular stock for my engine support when I swapped out the K-member.

  19. #99
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Axle Jig is in hand. Cost me $175 for material and labor. It may seem high but me and FBJ did a search and this was much cheaper to make then to order. Some go as high as $600 and that was without processing fees, taxes and shipping. Some were close to my cost but would have still been more. In the long run I may be able to recoup some of the cost for this if I rent it out to local guys.


    This is 48" long by 1.5" thick steel. I highly doubt it will flex or bend at all.






    Pucks - Two pucks 3.062"x0.5" with 1.5" center hole, One puck 3.150"x0.5" with 1.5" center hole.

    The 2 pucks are to the 8.8 main cap bearings diamensions and the single puck is to the 9" axle bearing housing end. It fits tighter then a ....well you get the idea.





    I'll post better pics of it once I get it set up and ready to weld the new housing ends on.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 08-23-2012 at 09:38 AM.

  20. #100
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    ok everyone loves pictures.


    So I need to cut 2" from the back of this plate. 2" is how long from the back of the 9" housing ends to the edge.






    Now to help cut in a straight line I'm using this as a guide.




    After you cut them off you need to bevel the edges for welding. This also shows just how thick 10 bolt tubes are.









    Here is a full length pic of the axle alignment jig



    The puck inside.




    The other 2 placed into the housing.


    Next slide the center rod into the axle and into each puck. Place the main caps on and tighten snug.





    Now slide the 9" housing end with the puck inside onto the center rod.

    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 08-23-2012 at 07:32 PM.

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