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My 8.8 Rear Build

This is a discussion on My 8.8 Rear Build within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by SMWS6TA Opps! Been there done that.. Next time if ya don't have a press available use a ...

  1. #21
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
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    Opps!

    Been there done that..

    Next time if ya don't have a press available use a medium (10-12in. L x 3/4 Dia.) 3/4 tapper center punch placed in the machine center, heat it,

    and @ least a 2-lbs. monkey hammer..
    Last edited by Smittro; 05-06-2012 at 10:58 AM.

  2. #22
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    Just curious on the axle tube installation -- what's the difference in O.D. from the 10 bolt to the 8.8?

  3. #23
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I should only need to take 0.001 off the outside it should slide inside the 8.8. I will cut about 3" of the 8.8 rear axle from the housing. This will act as a collar for the tubes and will mate up.

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    Just a thought -- too late to implement though. Cut the 8.8 tubes off and leave around 4-5" sticking out of the differential housing. Cut the 10 bolt tubes to length (minus the 4-5") butt them up to the 8.8 tube stubs with a 10-12" sleeve over top of everything. Less work and a stronger connection in the end.

  5. #25
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    That's about what I'm doing. I actually plan to cut about 5" out from the 8.8 housing so that I have some excess to clean up the tube cuts and make them as square as possible. Most guys only do about 3" off the housing and that makes them tough.

    After the 10 bolt tubes get cleaned up and have the 0.001 taken off the tubes they will slide in using the 8.8 axle tubes as the sleeve. This you'll see when I get to that point.


    A couple of the threads that I've been using for research has a couple of guys running 600hp cars and another one is claiming 800hp to the wheels for his track car. He is using a Mustang Torque Arm that attaches to the 8.8 axle tubes and has modified the tunnel cross-member to attached to the TA. He is claiming that it is much better then fabbing and welding a TA mount to the housing.

    But I'm not looking to do that yet. I really like the ladder bar set up because of simplicity. Plus I don't plan on building a track only car yet.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 05-06-2012 at 12:21 PM.

  6. #26
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    One more thing to add. I'm still currently using my 10 bolt till I'm sure this will all work.


    I have several local guys lining up wanting my suspension stuff already.

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    Sounds good... I thought you were flushing the tubes to the housing.

  8. #28
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Well I got some time to work on it again tonight.

    I got the 8.8 drives side off no problem, however the passenger was not so easy for me.






    Damn thing took me an hour to grind off






    ^^^

    Was not expecting this. I have to reread my research notes and figure out why the difference. I'm guessing that on the
    EB edition 8.8 rears they have bigger axles then the Mustang and Ranger 8.8's and I missed that somehow. I'll post what I find.













    Well now I am at a stand still till I can find a machine shop to make the sleeve up.




    Anyone that knows how much it should cost please chime in.

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    Nice job man!

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    Why are you playing with the tubes, and how are you going to hold that center to the mains?

  11. #31
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supershafts View Post
    Why are you playing with the tubes, and how are you going to hold that center to the mains?
    ^^
    Not sure what you mean?



    The 8.8 rear axle tubes are almost a foot shorter then the 10 bolt rear. You have to take the axles from the 10 bolt.

    Also using the 10 bolt axles gives me the spring perch, brake, LCA & PHB mounts.

    When I order the axles from Moser I'll order a set of custom axles that are the length of the 10 bolt with GM bolt pattern while having 31 spline ford 8.8 ends.


    It is a very common thing to do when doing a build like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrbonds View Post
    I'm looking forward to this also. Although I've been debating this with several people, I might just stick with rebuilding the 10 bolt. I feel like I've already stepped to far over the line with my original plans.
    Exactly my sentiments. I'm in on this and thank you.
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  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002ssslp View Post
    Too much work for me. How much will this rear cost finished and ready to go. I have the checkbook out and I'm ready to write.
    I'm in again on this !!! I marvel at the talent required to do this the right. I'll go for a completed set up and appreciate the hard work and talent to make it happen.

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    Quite the difference -- shows just how puny the 10 bolt really is and that it isn't just the gearset. Good to see continued progress. Are you going to drill a few holes into the 8.8 stubs to also plug weld the 10 bolt tube/sleeve?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Yes I will, I'm thinking at least 3/4" for the plug welds. I may even do a gridle ? over the housing to tie the axles together for added strength.

    Typing on a phone is a PITA.

  16. #36
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    And it's off to the machine shop. Sorry for the pic I had the sun above me and didn't notice the crappy pic.

    He'll let me know sometime next week after the holiday.








    I do have a footnote to add. On the Ford 8.8 axle tubes you will see that on the inside there is a seem. This will also have to be ground down.






    I'm also having him take off about 0.001" off the outside of the 10 bolt tubes so it knocks off the crap and gives a clean mating surface for measurements and fitting.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Supershafts View Post
    Why are you playing with the tubes, and how are you going to hold that center to the mains?
    ^^
    Not sure what you mean?



    The 8.8 rear axle tubes are almost a foot shorter then the 10 bolt rear. You have to take the axles from the 10 bolt.

    Also using the 10 bolt axles gives me the spring perch, brake, LCA & PHB mounts.

    When I order the axles from Moser I'll order a set of custom axles that are the length of the 10 bolt with GM bolt pattern while having 31 spline ford 8.8 ends.


    It is a very common thing to do when doing a build like this.
    But are you still doing the ladder bar set up?

  18. #38
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Yes.





    My setup is going to look a little different. I want to use adjustable roto-joints like what's in my UMI LCA's for both the upper and lower joints that connect to the axle and a fix joint that connects to the car body. I think that will help dial in the correct pinon angle and help give the axle a little bit more flexibility that ladder bars are not know for when doing autocross type stuff. Something I'll be discussing with the UMI guys when I get to this stage.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 05-25-2012 at 10:25 PM.

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    oh yeah... make sure you go with a limited slip diff... a spool is great until you look at your tires after a month of making turns...

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    Sheeesh, you have ambition, I'll give you that. There is a much easier way to do this, and probably comes in cheaper too.

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