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My 8.8 Rear Build

This is a discussion on My 8.8 Rear Build within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; subscribed...

  1. #181
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    On your ass flashing
    my highbeams

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
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    It's a long read....

  3. #183
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    They say boredom can lead to trouble.........









    I thought I had a pic of the pin in place to show for now it clears. Need to get someone that knows how to do check for wear pattern and shim installation to confirm final clearances. For now at the most I may need to shave an 1/8" off the drivers side axle.






    Here you will see I have plenty of room for upper control tabs


    After I tore it all back down I installed the ring gear and got one pass on the bolts of 30ftlbs. Need a 2nd pass to get to 60ftlbs, but that will need to be another day with someone that can use both arms and has the strength to do so.

  4. #184
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Had some friends come over and help me today.

    Got the ring gear torqued to 60ftlbs (Yeah that was fun....)




    And did a preliminary spacer mock up and ring gear pattern. Need to get a hold of a dial indicator to check backlash.



    Yes the drivers side axle is going to need to be shaved down at least an 1/8". It touches but doesn't bind. I'm not going to risk it doing anything to the pin so another trip to the machine shop. I would do it if I had a band saw but since I don't......

  5. #185
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    Hack saw?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Done.....took a 1/4" off

  7. #187
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    Looks good.

  8. #188
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Got clearance?




    Tomorrow going to drill, tap for the vent cap.


    Here's how the T bolts mount up. They come with a lock washer but I'm going to swap out for nylon lock. Not enough bolt thread to use the lock washer.






    Next step is to lift the car this weekend and start fabbing the UCA tabs.

  9. #189
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Drilling pilot hole



    Next using 37/64" bit (yeah had to order that one)



    After tapping the threads...




    In case you're wondering this is to let the pressure inside the case to escape so it doesn't blow a gasket or seal. And yes it will thread all the way down.

  10. #190
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    So you ordered your axles a hair long and cut them to fit? If so, that takes a lot of stress out of ordering axles.

    Those are pipe threads cut into the axle tube right? Pipe fittings shouldn't bottom out, have to be careful when running the tap not to go too far. If you did go too far, I don't see it affecting much in this application.

  11. #191
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Passenger axle tube was out.

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    Junior Member DukeCity NM SS's Avatar
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    What size T bolts you using to hold the backing plates On? Great Job Buy the Way, I see your going no Torque Arm.. Im Going with the hilsty T/A Mount Since i want the stock feel..
    1999 Camaro SS M6

  13. #193
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I used these from Moser



    For now I'm going with a modified ladder bar set up (again) I have the Hiltsy mount in case it doesn't work.

    Does anyone know of any tricks to be able to slide the axles with the bearings in & out of the housings? I can get them in but pulling the axles off I have to use a hammer to get them back off. Major PITA.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 08-31-2016 at 07:27 AM.

  14. #194
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    Do you have a slide hammer with a finger attachment?

  15. #195
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad idea View Post
    So you ordered your axles a hair long and cut them to fit? If so, that takes a lot of stress out of ordering axles.

    Those are pipe threads cut into the axle tube right? Pipe fittings shouldn't bottom out, have to be careful when running the tap not to go too far. If you did go too far, I don't see it affecting much in this application.
    Not exactly........I was dead on with measurements for axles if I left it with the stock housing ends for the 10 bolt. But because I choose to eliminate the c clips I had to use 9" housing ends. Somehow I shorted the drivers side an 1/8". Not sure how but it happen. It's not a killer, just glad I have an adjustable pan hand bar.

  16. #196
    Junior Member DukeCity NM SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I used these form Moser



    For now I'm going with a modified ladder bar set up (again) I have the Hiltsy mount in case it doesn't work.
    Cool Thank you, Also you used 7900fm Housing end with timken set 20 bearing Correct? Figure i ask before i order tomorrow.. As for c clip eliminator which are you using? Sorry for all the question I seen your list But Its soo tiny Lol

  17. #197
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Correct on the 7900FM housing, not sure exact bearing because when I ordered my axles I had Moser tell me which ones I needed for a 31 spline axle using those housing ends.


    If you want a better detailed list pm me your email and I'll send it pdf to you in the morning.

  18. #198
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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  19. #199
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I know it's a bad shot, but that's not the point..... The 8.8 bolts right up without a glitch. Something must me wrong.....



    I'm getting in place to start tacking tabs for upper control arms. After that dropping the tank to swap out for a Racetronix fuel pump. If I didn't have to drop out the rear to begin with I would be doing the trap door method.

  20. #200
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Please don't hate on my tack welds. I have a cheap mig. These are just to hold till I get someone to weld for real.

    BTW....Powder-coating is a MF to remove.







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