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Light weight Flywheel?...

This is a discussion on Light weight Flywheel?... within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I was wondering how many of you guys have them, and what kind of difference does it make overall? Looking ...

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    My Neighbors Hate Me!!! lvbroham1's Avatar
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    Light weight Flywheel?...

    I was wondering how many of you guys have them, and what kind of difference does it make overall? Looking into getting one soon... Any advice is appreciated.

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    Senior Member Rhinohuey's Avatar
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    When I first got mine, it was weird getting going from a stop. The car stalled alot easier becuase the flywheel had so much less momentum at whatever rpm you launch at. Thats my only complaint. Once you actually get going though the car revs noticeably faster.

    Most people prefer the lightweight for twisty racing and the heavy flywheel for drag racing. I never really race except for the occasional straight race but I would actually prefer the lightweight one now.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I have the lightweight flywheel in my wifes car,,,but it was intalled for a different reason than most here would think of.

    A local shop here was the only place in town that would machine flywheels, and they went out of business. I wasn't driving 50-60 miles to get a flywheel machined so I ordered a Fidanza aluminum flywheel.

    Makes clutch jobs much easier and faster now. I can simply remove the steel insert and replace with new,,,and it's done.

    No more going accross town to machine flywheels,,,waiting sometimes most of the day to get it back,,,turning a clutch job into a 2 day affair,,,screw that.

    Now I have the job done in 3-4 hours simply swapping the steel insert right on the spot and reassemble with new clutch

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    My Neighbors Hate Me!!! lvbroham1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I have the lightweight flywheel in my wifes car,,,but it was intalled for a different reason than most here would think of.

    A local shop here was the only place in town that would machine flywheels, and they went out of business. I wasn't driving 50-60 miles to get a flywheel machined so I ordered a Fidanza aluminum flywheel.

    Makes clutch jobs much easier and faster now. I can simply remove the steel insert and replace with new,,,and it's done.

    No more going accross town to machine flywheels,,,waiting sometimes most of the day to get it back,,,turning a clutch job into a 2 day affair,,,screw that.

    Now I have the job done in 3-4 hours simply swapping the steel insert right on the spot and reassemble with new clutch
    That's a nice feature to have. How much did you spend on that flywheel?...

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    My Neighbors Hate Me!!! lvbroham1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhinohuey View Post
    When I first got mine, it was weird getting going from a stop. The car stalled alot easier becuase the flywheel had so much less momentum at whatever rpm you launch at. Thats my only complaint. Once you actually get going though the car revs noticeably faster.

    Most people prefer the lightweight for twisty racing and the heavy flywheel for drag racing. I never really race except for the occasional straight race but I would actually prefer the lightweight one now.
    So a stock flywheel would be more for the drag racer type?...

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lvbroham1 View Post
    That's a nice feature to have. How much did you spend on that flywheel?...
    It's been a long time, but I believe it was somewhere in the $300 range.

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    My Neighbors Hate Me!!! lvbroham1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    It's been a long time, but I believe it was somewhere in the $300 range.
    That's not bad at all, I was thinking it would be more like 7-800 hundred...

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lvbroham1 View Post
    That's not bad at all, I was thinking it would be more like 7-800 hundred...
    Naaa, $800 would do the entire clutch setup with everything new.

    If you do an internet search for Fidanza flywheels, you'll find them. They are made for both the LS1 and LT1 and various other cars.
    I think you can even find them sold new on Ebay. I got turned onto them years ago because it's what a local 4th gen shop here uses on all their builds.

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    My Neighbors Hate Me!!! lvbroham1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Naaa, $800 would do the entire clutch setup with everything new.

    If you do an internet search for Fidanza flywheels, you'll find them. They are made for both the LS1 and LT1 and various other cars.
    I think you can even find them sold new on Ebay. I got turned onto them years ago because it's what a local 4th gen shop here uses on all their builds.
    Thanks a lot for the insight, I will definitely look into them.

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    Senior Member Rhinohuey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Makes clutch jobs much easier and faster now. I can simply remove the steel insert and replace with new,,,and it's done.
    Same reason I went with the aluminum.

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    Senior Member Rhinohuey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lvbroham1 View Post
    So a stock flywheel would be more for the drag racer type?...
    Exactly. Because the flywheel is heavier, it has more momentum on the launch. Therefore, when you drop the clutch, your car will go more and your rpms will drop less.

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    My Neighbors Hate Me!!! lvbroham1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhinohuey View Post
    Exactly. Because the flywheel is heavier, it has more momentum on the launch. Therefore, when you drop the clutch, your car will go more and your rpms will drop less.
    Ok, that makes sense. I haven't been to the track in mine yet, but I want to start going. I guess it would be better for me to just keep my stock one. By no means is it a DD, just a garage queen and weekend toy.

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    Missing 4 Cylinders BULLET_WS6's Avatar
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    yeah you want a heavier flywheel so when you shift you keep the momentum going

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    Senior Member Rhinohuey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BULLET_WS6 View Post
    yeah you want a heavier flywheel so when you shift you keep the momentum going
    Yeah thats another thing. rpms will drop less between shifts the heavier your flywheel is.

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    My Neighbors Hate Me!!! lvbroham1's Avatar
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    Now I'm leaning more to keeping my stock flywheel, if a lighter flywheel sacrifices performance on the strip, I'd rather stay with the stocker.

  16. #16
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Well it doesn't necessarily sacrafice performance at the strip. There are other thing to take into consideration.

    Having a hard time taking off because you have lightened the flywheel can be compensated in many ways.
    Taking into account the ratio of 1st gear in the trans coupled with the rearend gear will give you an idea.
    With the stock 2.66 first gear in the 6 speed and a stock 3.42 rearend gear,,,then installing an aluminum flywheel with less momentum can possibly make it more difficult to get the car rolling,,,,I personally have not noticed any difference in day to day drivability,,,and my wife drives it 99% of the time without complaints, and still running stock 3.42 gears.
    You can compensate for this with more rearend gear though if it's a problem,,,something most people do anyway even with the steel flywheel...

    The engine in theory should accelerate faster throughout the rpm range due to less recipricating weight. This should far outweigh any disadvantage of rpm recovery during upshifts.
    Again I have not noticed any ill affects here either.

    Generally speaking, as far as drag racing is concerned,,,,The biggest reason competetive racers go with a heavy steel flywheel is when you are dealing with a very heavy car and/or a small cubic inch, very highstrung motor that has no low end torque, so you can get the car moving easier,,,coupled with alot of rearend gear,,,,the lighter the car or the more low end torque the engine makes,,,,the less of a concern it is.

    Quite frankly I can't even tell it's in the car,,,and a stock LT1 isn't exactly a powerhouse as far as I am concerned.

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    🤔 11s. blackbirdbrain89's Avatar
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    i have a fidanza alum fly wheel and its worth every .01 if u ferr rev the tack cant keep up, u will be hitthing rev limmiter and the tack is only at 4k thats no bull shit. at the strip i ran a 12.9 with a lid and catback on street tires. its harder to find the rpm to drop it from to get it to hook and go but once u do get going its like a bat out of hell im traping 109-112 in the 1/4 with a 2.01 60ft and i only make 345hp to the wheels full car leather seats. and all

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    My Neighbors Hate Me!!! lvbroham1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Well it doesn't necessarily sacrafice performance at the strip. There are other thing to take into consideration.

    Having a hard time taking off because you have lightened the flywheel can be compensated in many ways.
    Taking into account the ratio of 1st gear in the trans coupled with the rearend gear will give you an idea.
    With the stock 2.66 first gear in the 6 speed and a stock 3.42 rearend gear,,,then installing an aluminum flywheel with less momentum can possibly make it more difficult to get the car rolling,,,,I personally have not noticed any difference in day to day drivability,,,and my wife drives it 99% of the time without complaints, and still running stock 3.42 gears.
    You can compensate for this with more rearend gear though if it's a problem,,,something most people do anyway even with the steel flywheel...

    The engine in theory should accelerate faster throughout the rpm range due to less recipricating weight. This should far outweigh any disadvantage of rpm recovery during upshifts.
    Again I have not noticed any ill affects here either.

    Generally speaking, as far as drag racing is concerned,,,,The biggest reason competetive racers go with a heavy steel flywheel is when you are dealing with a very heavy car and/or a small cubic inch, very highstrung motor that has no low end torque, so you can get the car moving easier,,,coupled with alot of rearend gear,,,,the lighter the car or the more low end torque the engine makes,,,,the less of a concern it is.

    Quite frankly I can't even tell it's in the car,,,and a stock LT1 isn't exactly a powerhouse as far as I am concerned.
    Well firebird, eventually I want to upgrade the rear end, i'm pretty much sure the stock one won't hold up when I start going to the track. So, basically I would have to configure both the gears in the rear and get my tranny built to get this thing running right?...

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lvbroham1 View Post
    Well firebird, eventually I want to upgrade the rear end, i'm pretty much sure the stock one won't hold up when I start going to the track. So, basically I would have to configure both the gears in the rear and get my tranny built to get this thing running right?...
    Well,,,,I was giving an extreme case example. If I even thought for a second that it would cause drivability problems I wouldn't have stuck one in my wifes car. God knows I'd never hear the end of it

    In all honesty though, it's a common upgrade when a clutch job is done, even for the stock or slightly modified cars. Most people won't notice such a small difference in flywheel weight in day to day driving, my wife didn't notice a thing.... I've raced the car both with and without this flywheel, and noticed no ET or MPH difference at all. We are talking about a stocker though.
    Even with the 3.42 gears, it takes off from a stop just fine. I only installed it for the reasons I explained before, simply makes the clutch jobs quicker. I order a new steel insert along with the new clutch kit and it's all installed in one shot, then you're done.

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    Senior Member Rhinohuey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackbirdbrain89 View Post
    i have a fidanza alum fly wheel and its worth every .01 if u ferr rev the tack cant keep up, u will be hitthing rev limmiter and the tack is only at 4k thats no bull shit. at the strip i ran a 12.9 with a lid and catback on street tires. its harder to find the rpm to drop it from to get it to hook and go but once u do get going its like a bat out of hell im traping 109-112 in the 1/4 with a 2.01 60ft and i only make 345hp to the wheels full car leather seats. and all
    Uhhhh....maybe I'm worng but I'd say there is something wrong with your tach. I've never had that problem.

    Nice times by the way.

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