Hubs (replacement)

[nomolos1]

I just replaced both of my hubs, on my 98 T/A. It cost me a around $111.xx. It was very easy and only took 30 min per wheel. I feel like I had a small victory over the repair shop. (got a quote for around $250 a wheel) Found a place online that shipped both hubs (new) to my door, for the $111. Auto Zone and Advanced charges around $160. each. If you need the link, PM me.
I'm very happy with my results.

[Wesman]

I just replaced both of my hubs, on my 98 T/A. It cost me a around $111.xx. It was very easy and only took 30 min per wheel. I feel like I had a small victory over the repair shop. (got a quote for around $250 a wheel) Found a place online that shipped both hubs (new) to my door, for the $111. Auto Zone and Advanced charges around $160. each. If you need the link, PM me.
I'm very happy with my results.

Whats the brand on the hubs??

If they are no-name made in china, then you're going to be doing them again in the near future.

The only OEM quality brands are SKF, Timken, and National. The rest tend to fail prematurely.

[nomolos1]

They are no name, so you're probably right about the china thing. But just about everything we buy these days are made there. That includes a lot of auto parts that are OEM. The company I bought mine from also have Timkin at a very good price.

[JayTA98]

I got my Timken ones price match at 150 each with tax included at autozone. I just showed them the Rock auto price and they took off 30 dollars off each one. The rock auto ones with shipping were around 141 each. I prefer to get them local for the warranty exchange, its easier and quicker.

[nomolos1]

Timken= 141
Auto thrust= 102
Made in China, Off Name brand (Replacement)= 65. They work fine for me.
I got a discount for buying 2. Free shipping, no tax. They were shipped out of Virginia

[nomolos1]

Well several thousand miles later, the cheap hubs are great. I'm very happy. I sold the car to a friend, so I can still see how far they will go.

[NastySS]

Hi,

I have to do this. Anyone know the Torque Spec for the 4 bolts that secure the hubs? I have an '01 SS. Thanks,

Nasty

[nomolos1]

I didn't use any tq specs. I just tightened them as much as I would for the brake calipers.

[NastySS]

These bolts hold the front wheels on. If I were to consider using a Torque Spec outside of Engine Components and Internals, I would feel better doing that to these bolts.

It seems very difficult to find this Torque Spec. I wonder why? I have a separate issue just asking this question. The Topic has readers, but no replies. Again, I wonder why?

[cpop98ws6]

I put Nationals in my car about 3 years ago, they are made by Federal-Mogul and have a lifetime warranty. Got them for 102 a piece.

[NastySS]

CPOP,

Did you torque your bolts by any chance??

[cpop98ws6]

I did, not that critical though.

[cpop98ws6]

i think the torque spec is around 89 ft lbs. I will find out for sure when i get back to work.

[cpop98ws6]

63 ft. Lbs. Hub assembly bolts

[Smittro]

You can change out to stronger hub carrier bolts anytime..

It's the hardness of the bearing races I'd be concerned with..

That's just me tho...

[NastySS]

I replaced the Left Front Hub, and unfortunately the Two Dummy Lights on my dash (ASR OFF & ABS INOP) did NOT go off after I put the new Hub on.

The 2 Computer Codes were (C0035 and C0245), which as you are probably aware mean "Left Front Wheel Speed Circuit Malfunction" and "Wheel Speed Sensor Frequency Error". I did make sure the Wire is plugged in very Securely to the Sensor on the back of the Hub.

I even reset the PCM, by pulling the 2 PCM fuses. The 2 dash warning lights went off for a minute or two, then came right back on. So now I don't know what I am going to do. I have driven the car about 25 miles since the repair. Does anyone have any idea if there needs to be more miles on the car for the computer to recognize the new Hub? I am rather frustrated at this point.

Obviously I am going to need to get the Computer Codes rechecked.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...!

Tom

[nomolos1]

What size wheels are you running? Are they staggered? If so, try turning the traction control off.

[sayjoegee]

I replaced the Left Front Hub, and unfortunately the Two Dummy Lights on my dash (ASR OFF & ABS INOP) did NOT go off after I put the new Hub on.

The 2 Computer Codes were (C0035 and C0245), which as you are probably aware mean "Left Front Wheel Speed Circuit Malfunction" and "Wheel Speed Sensor Frequency Error". I did make sure the Wire is plugged in very Securely to the Sensor on the back of the Hub.

I even reset the PCM, by pulling the 2 PCM fuses. The 2 dash warning lights went off for a minute or two, then came right back on. So now I don't know what I am going to do. I have driven the car about 25 miles since the repair. Does anyone have any idea if there needs to be more miles on the car for the computer to recognize the new Hub? I am rather frustrated at this point.

Obviously I am going to need to get the Computer Codes rechecked.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...!

Tom

From the GM shop manual:

2001 Chevrolet Camaro | Camaro, Firebird VIN F Service Manual | Document ID: 665621
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DTC C0035-C0051
Circuit Description
As the wheel spins, the wheel speed sensor produces an AC signal. The EBCM uses the frequency of the AC signal to calculate the wheel speed.

Conditions for Running the DTC
C0035 C0040 C0045 C0050
The ignition is ON.

C0036 C0041 C0046 C0051
• Vehicle speed is over 40 km/h (25 mph).

• The brake pedal is not pressed.

• The ABS is not active.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
C0035 C0040 C0045 C0050
One of the following conditions exists for 0.02 seconds:

• A short to voltage - the wheel speed sensor signal circuit greater than 4.25 volts.

• An open - the wheel speed sensor signal circuit voltage is greater than 4.25 volts and wheel speed sensor return circuit voltage is less than 0.75 volts.

C0036 C0041 C0046 C0051
All of the following conditions exists for 10 ms:

• The suspect wheel speed equals zero.

• The other wheel speeds are greater than 40 km/h (25 mph) for 0.01 seconds.

• The suspect wheel equals zero during drive off, and the other wheels are greater than 12 km/h (7.5 mph).

• A short to ground - the wheel speed sensor signal circuit is shorted to ground.

• A deviation of two wheel speeds at either side of the vehicle greater than 6 km/h (4 mph), or at the front axle greater than 10 km/h (6 mph) for a time period of 10 to 20 seconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
If equipped, the following actions occur:

• The EBCM disables the ABS/TCS for the duration of the ignition cycle.

• The ABS indicator turns ON.

• The Traction Off indicator turns ON.

• The Red BRAKE Warning indicator could turn on.

Conditions for Clearing the DTC
• The condition for the DTC is no longer present (the DTC is not current) and you used the scan tool Clear DTC function.

• The EBCM automatically clears the history DTC when a current DTC is not detected in 100 consecutive drive cycles.

Diagnostic Aids
C0035 C0040 C0045 C0050
If the customer comments that the ABS indicator is ON only during moist environmental conditions (rain, snow, vehicle wash, etc.), inspect the wheel speed sensor wiring for signs of water intrusion. If the DTC is not current, clear all DTCs and simulate the effects of water intrusion by using the following procedure:

•Spray the suspected area with a 5 percent saltwater solution. To create a 5 percent saltwater solution, add 2 teaspoons of salt to 354 ml (12 oz) of water.
•Test drive the vehicle over various road surfaces (bumps, turns, etc.) above 40 km/h (25 mph) for at least 30 seconds.
•If the DTC returns, replace the suspected wheel speed sensor or repair the wheel speed sensor wiring.
•Rinse the are thoroughly when completed.
C0036 C0041 C0046 C0051
Under the following conditions, 2 Wheel Speed Sensor Input is 0 DTCs are set:

• The 2 suspect wheel speeds equal zero for 10-20 seconds.

• The other wheel speeds are greater than 16 km/h (10 mph).

• The other wheel speeds are within 11 km/h (7 mph) of each other.

Diagnose each wheel speed sensor individually.

C0036 C0041 C0046 C0051
A possible cause of this DTC is electrical noise on the wheel speed sensor harness wiring. Electrical noise could result from the wheel speed sensor wires being routed to close to high energy ignition system components, such as spark plug wires.

Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

4.This step tests the wheel speed sensor for the proper resistance value.

5.This step ensures that the wheel speed sensor generates the proper voltage.

Step

Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

Schematic Reference: Antilock Brake System Schematics

1
Did you perform the ABS Diagnostic System Check?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS

2
•Install a scan tool.
•Turn ON the ignition.
•Set up the scan tool snap shot feature to trigger for this DTC.
•Drive the vehicle at a speed greater than the specified value.
Does the scan tool indicate that this wheel speed DTC set?
8 km/h (5 mph)
Go to Step 3
Go to Diagnostic Aids

3
•Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
•Disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector.
•Measure the resistance across the wheel speed sensor.
Does the resistance measure within the specified range?
800-1600 Ω
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 8

4
•Spin the wheel.
•Measure the AC voltage across the wheel speed sensor.
Does the AC voltage measure greater than the specified value?
100 mV
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 8

5
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the wheel speed sensor. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairsin Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 6

6
•Disconnect the EBCM harness connector.
•Install the J 39700 using J 39700-530 to the EBCM harness connector only.
•Test the wheel speed sensor circuits for the following:
• An open

• A short to ground

• A short to voltage

• Shorted together

Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Wiring Repairsin Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 7

7
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector for the EBCM. Refer Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 9

8
Replace the wheel speed sensor. Refer to Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Replacement or Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement in Rear Suspension.

Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 10
--

9
Replace the EBCM. Refer to Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement.

Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 10
--

10
•Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
•Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text.
Does the DTC reset?
--
Go to Step 2
System OK

[NastySS]

THE TRACTION CONTROL DOES NOT WORK. THAT IS WHAT THE DUMMY LIGHT (ASR (Acceleration Slip Regulation) OFF) MEANS. The little orange light on the ASR toggle switch is NOT illuminated, and nothing happens when you move it either way.

I have no Anti-lock brakes and no Traction Control. The cause was supposed to be a bad ABS sensor in the left front HUB, according to the 2 codes that came out of the computer.

All 4 wheels and tires are the stock size. (275/40-ZR17)

I guess the real question I have is : Does replacing the bad HUB fix the problem IMMEDIATELY, or do you need to drive the car a certain amount of miles before the Computer recognizes the new HUB ABS Sensor? For example, When you unplug the 2 PCM fuses (This in effect resets the computer), it takes about 100 miles of driving before the computer recognizes everything it needs to.

[nomolos1]

I'm lost on that bro. When my hubs went out, they had a bad viberation. The computer didnt know they were bad.