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Hubs (replacement)

This is a discussion on Hubs (replacement) within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; where does the reluctor read on the f-bodies? I've never had the hubs off on mine. I will say that ...

  1. #21
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    where does the reluctor read on the f-bodies? I've never had the hubs off on mine. I will say that on my truck when I did a hub on it and replaced the abs sensor I had an issue after I put it back together. It ended up being rust between the dust shield and hub mounting surfaces. It grounds through the dust shield at the hub and wasn't getting a good ground. I took it back apart and cleaned those surfaces and all was good.

  2. #22
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    where does the reluctor read on the f-bodies? I've never had the hubs off on mine. I will say that on my truck when I did a hub on it and replaced the abs sensor I had an issue after I put it back together. It ended up being rust between the dust shield and hub mounting surfaces. It grounds through the dust shield at the hub and wasn't getting a good ground. I took it back apart and cleaned those surfaces and all was good.
    The wheel speed sensor it internal to the hub. Nothing can be cleaned/replaced separately like it can on some of the GM trucks.

  3. #23
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NastySS View Post
    THE TRACTION CONTROL DOES NOT WORK. THAT IS WHAT THE DUMMY LIGHT (ASR (Acceleration Slip Regulation) OFF) MEANS. The little orange light on the ASR toggle switch is NOT illuminated, and nothing happens when you move it either way.

    I have no Anti-lock brakes and no Traction Control.
    The cause was supposed to be a bad ABS sensor in the left front HUB, according to the 2 codes that came out of the computer.

    All 4 wheels and tires are the stock size. (275/40-ZR17)

    I guess the real question I have is : Does replacing the bad HUB fix the problem IMMEDIATELY, or do you need to drive the car a certain amount of miles before the Computer recognizes the new HUB ABS Sensor? For example, When you unplug the 2 PCM fuses (This in effect resets the computer), it takes about 100 miles of driving before the computer recognizes everything it needs to.
    The car will recognize the new sensor almost immediately. Usually within the first few hundred feet of driving the light will go out, even if you didn't reset the system.

    After driving it that much the light should have gone off if the hub sensor was the problem. Sounds like you need to do some further diagnosis to pinpoint the issue, must be something in the wiring or the computer itself.

  4. #24
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    The wheel speed sensor it internal to the hub. Nothing can be cleaned/replaced separately like it can on some of the GM trucks.
    ok...wasn't sure. On the truck the sensor was part of the dust shield and read the reluctor on the back of the hub. I was wrong earlier (been a while) and the dust shield to spindle was what I had rust on and had to clean....the hub was new.

  5. #25
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    My HUB didn't go. The ABS Sensor in the back of the HUB went,,,maybe.
    Last edited by NastySS; 04-12-2011 at 09:25 AM.

  6. #26
    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    You might have to reset the codes with a scanner. If that doesnt work there might be a break in the ABS wire. Try and trace it back as far as you can and look for a break.

  7. #27
    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    Did the new hub come with a new sensor wire?

  8. #28
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    I did reset the codes by resetting the computer. That entails pulling the 2 PCM fuses under the hood with the key on, but the car NOT started. After pulling the 2 PCM fuses, The Dash warning lights did go out for a short while, then came back on.

    The New HUBS do not come with wires. I plugged the old one back into it very carefully, and securely.

    I will try to trace the wire as far as I can, to see if there are any breaks that can be seen.

    Thanks all of you for your help and suggestions!

    Tom

  9. #29
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    If the hub/sensor was the problem, the lights would go off immediately, even without reseting anything.
    What brand hub are you using?
    You might have a wiring issue to that LF sensor. Look for wiring damage

  10. #30
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Thanks Cutlass,,,,I used one from National Bearing. I talked with a Chevrolet Dealer Mechanic, and he said if I didn't use a GM HUB, there is a good chance replacing the HUB would not fix the problem. Of course that is what I would have expected him to say.

    I could not find any wiring issues. Not sure what to do at this point....

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by NastySS View Post
    THE TRACTION CONTROL DOES NOT WORK. THAT IS WHAT THE DUMMY LIGHT (ASR (Acceleration Slip Regulation) OFF) MEANS. The little orange light on the ASR toggle switch is NOT illuminated, and nothing happens when you move it either way.

    I have no Anti-lock brakes and no Traction Control. The cause was supposed to be a bad ABS sensor in the left front HUB, according to the 2 codes that came out of the computer.

    All 4 wheels and tires are the stock size. (275/40-ZR17)

    I guess the real question I have is : Does replacing the bad HUB fix the problem IMMEDIATELY, or do you need to drive the car a certain amount of miles before the Computer recognizes the new HUB ABS Sensor? For example, When you unplug the 2 PCM fuses (This in effect resets the computer), it takes about 100 miles of driving before the computer recognizes everything it needs to.
    Check all of your grounds.

  12. #32
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Thanks, I will check all the grounds.

    I said earlier that a Chevrolet Mechanic told me that in many cases, ONLY A GM HUB WILL FIX THE PROBLEM. Has anyone out there found this to be true from personal experience, or,,,,,, have one brand not work while a different brand did work? Thanks.

  13. #33
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    Didn't have the problem with the cheapies I used.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by NastySS View Post
    Thanks, I will check all the grounds.

    I said earlier that a Chevrolet Mechanic told me that in many cases, ONLY A GM HUB WILL FIX THE PROBLEM. Has anyone out there found this to be true from personal experience, or,,,,,, have one brand not work while a different brand did work? Thanks.
    I've definitely had problems with some cheaper hubs, but its usually not right away. Usually its 3,000 to 20,000 miles down the road. Can test the resistance of the sensor with an ohm meter? Post the results.

  15. #35
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    you can also swap the hubs. is alittle bit of work but if the right one is good the code will follow the bad hub. So if you swap them and the code shows is on the right side then yes the sensor is bad and replacing the hub will fix the problem. If you know how to use an ohmeter then check it out and post the results like Cutlass mentioned. This will save you the time of swaping out. You can compare the readings with the good sensor as well.

  16. #36
    Import Ambassador nomolos1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    I've definitely had problems with some cheaper hubs, but its usually not right away. Usually its 3,000 to 20,000 miles down the road. Can test the resistance of the sensor with an ohm meter? Post the results.
    The cheapies are in 5000 mile range and still holding well, with no codes. A co-worker of mine has the car, so I will know if there is any issues.

  17. #37
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Thanks All for the suggestions,

    I do not (Yet) have an Ohm Meter to test the resistance of the sensor. Does anyone know the specific resistance that would mean the Sensor is Good (or Bad)? I assume I need to just connect the meter to the 2 leads on the sensor to get the reading? Electronic diagnosis is one of my few "Weak Areas".

    I would rather not do the "Swap" to see if the code follows the Hub to the right side, unless absolutely necessary. I still need to get the current codes after the new HUB was installed. I am just assuming they are the same (C0245 and C0035), but who knows?

  18. #38
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nomolos1 View Post
    The cheapies are in 5000 mile range and still holding well, with no codes. A co-worker of mine has the car, so I will know if there is any issues.
    There are some good cheaper hubs. Hopefully they work out for you...or your coworker I guess

  19. #39
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NastySS View Post
    Thanks All for the suggestions,

    I do not (Yet) have an Ohm Meter to test the resistance of the sensor. Does anyone know the specific resistance that would mean the Sensor is Good (or Bad)? I assume I need to just connect the meter to the 2 leads on the sensor to get the reading? Electronic diagnosis is one of my few "Weak Areas".
    Yep just hook it up across the 2 leads. Range is generally 800ish to 1300ish ohms

  20. #40
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    I had a Chevy Mechanic try to diagnose the HUB. He said my NEW left front HUB isn't even being recognized by the computer/scanner he hooked up to the computer port. It is as though the HUB isn't even there, as it's putting out NO readings. He suggests that I need to put on a GM HUB to fix the problem from his past experience. That sounds like BS to me. I really don't know WHAT TO DO AT THIS POINT.

    I KNOW,,,,,if I put the "Supposedly" BAD GM HUB I took off the front left, and put it on the front right side, what happens should tell me something. If I get no ABS CODES on the right, then the HUB isn't the issue, and it lies somewhere else like wiring or ?? Thoughts anyone?
    Last edited by NastySS; 06-05-2011 at 11:03 AM.

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