How to strengthen my rearend

**getcha01** · 03-19-2009, 04:35 PM

I have a 01 WS6 with 3:42's, alum driveshaft and 6 speed, I have headers,catless y-pipe,slp lid,mac filter,free mods,msd plug wires, and a hooker muffler, before the LT headers and catless 3in y-pipe and built tranny with spec clutch I ran 13.08 with no spin at all taking off at 2,500rpm...my stock clutch slippied a bit is why it didnt spin I think, but since the headers and catless ypipe, it wheel hops really bad untill I shift to 2nd then it lays marks on the road all through 2nd gear then stops in 3rd....Im scared my rearend is going to go out soon since it was pretty much a 12.90 car before, and now im getting it tuned and should run mid 12's and its a stock rearend...what do I need to do to keep from wheel hopping and spinning so bad without tearing the rearend out, because I know of a lot of T/A's and Z28's that tear out their rears...I havnt heard of any SS camaro or WS6 trans ams tearing rearends out because theres not many at the track, but I assume they are same rearends but different ring gears...my tranny builder said to put a girdle on my rearend, whatever that means?...I want to install lakewood adjustable LCA's, and maybe aftermarket torque arm and I want 4:10's...what can I do to help traction and strengthen my rearend?...I took off at 2,500 slipping the clutch and ran 13.08 on my only run b4 3rd went out...now I will have about 60-80 more hp and it never spun before now it does bad, and I want to get drag radials and launch it actually at around 3,000...what do i need to do rearend wise?...remember im laid off, and im a welder, I can make things like subframe connectors......im short on cash though

**Fastdaddy** · 03-19-2009, 08:19 PM

Just installed a UMI adjustable torque arm with the tunnel arm re-location bracket. This was the most amazing transformation I have seen. I had major whell hop issues trying to turn 275/40-18's. I tried bags, and considered the lakewood c/a's. My car is lowered which changed the pinnion angle considerably, which was the major cause of hopping for me. I had the t/a installed and angle set to -5 and I am amazed. Total cost bought and installed was around 500. This will help protect the rear end, and take the stress off of the tail piece on the transmission. Unreal is all I can say.......

http://www.umiperformance.com/2202?category_id=130

**zmg00camaross** · 03-19-2009, 08:52 PM

I have a ss and broke my 10 bolt on the street with 4.10 slaming second so you are lucky you haven't broke now only way to survive is a expensive 9 inch if your laid off just save your money I am building a 9 inch right now just be easy on it my recommendation I think ppl will agree

**Hi-Po** · 03-19-2009, 10:14 PM

Building up your 10 bolt is like putting a band aid on a wound that requires staples and stitches. If your short on cash now, dumping money into your 10 bolt and THEN breaking it, will just set you back further. There are many 12 bolts and 9" used for sale at good prices.

And where are you getting an extra 80 HP from exhuast and a lid? Your not gonna come close.

**zmg00camaross** · 03-20-2009, 07:22 AM

hey if your a weld/fab you can find a cheap 9 housing at a junk yard and weld your own control arm mounts and for your torque arm it can be done

**km346** · 03-20-2009, 09:21 AM

If the car is getting drag raced frequently, its going to pop the ten bolt eventually no matter what. i would start rolling pennies for a 12 bolt or 9". Or just stop drag racing the car until you can afford to throw a rear end in it when it goes.

**blackbirdbrain89** · 03-20-2009, 11:46 AM

i build my stock 10 bolt up... every thing but a locker and i keep breaking lsd's and im only a mid 12 car on street tires. money well wasted... i just got a none inch and liking the fact that im not going to break it...

**robcas47** · 03-20-2009, 11:52 AM

how much of a pain in the ass is it to do a 12 bolt swap? and about how much will this usually cost?

**bigrondownhiller** · 03-20-2009, 12:27 PM

With all the plans you have I wouldn't waste money on the 10 bolt. Save the money for a 12 bolt or 9". Another option is an 8.8 out of a mustang. They are cheap and you might be able to find one with 3.73 or 4.10 already. Then you can weld on the mounts you need from your old rear. Since you can weld you can box your lower control arms to save a little cash. New shocks will help your hopping problem too.

**Zboner** · 03-20-2009, 02:19 PM

Originally Posted by robcas47

how much of a pain in the ass is it to do a 12 bolt swap? and about how much will this usually cost?

I have seen used ones go for as cheap as $1,600 and a new one can run up to $2,600 easily just depends on the options you get on it

**Y2KPewterSS** · 03-20-2009, 03:13 PM

Originally Posted by robcas47

how much of a pain in the ass is it to do a 12 bolt swap? and about how much will this usually cost?

Not hard at all to swap.

**Spikito** · 03-20-2009, 03:16 PM

wow, you mention strengthening your rear end, someone else mentions a pain in the ass. and yet no one makes a crude remark.

I'm impressed

**getcha01** · 03-20-2009, 05:16 PM

Originally Posted by Hi-Po

Building up your 10 bolt is like putting a band aid on a wound that requires staples and stitches. If your short on cash now, dumping money into your 10 bolt and THEN breaking it, will just set you back further. There are many 12 bolts and 9" used for sale at good prices.

And where are you getting an extra 80 HP from exhuast and a lid? Your not gonna come close.

Im hoping to get an extra 40-50 off headers,no cats and tune....headers 20-25hp,no cats 15-25hp, and tune 15-20hp, so im hoping for 20, and I ran 13.08 before all that with tore up tranny and possibbly stock clutch with 110,000mi....I have built tranny $3000 worth of workk thats with me taking it out and installing it, plus headers, spec clutch,tune...i'd say 50hp is no problem out of that...the 01-02 WS6 has some dynos from factory at 310RWHP with the 241 heads and Z06 block, which I have both from factory.....and the exhaust was very restrictive, and the header and catless y-pipe was as much a benefit as a 224/224 cam install on the 01-02 year WS6, my buddys dad has worked for GM 30 years as mechanic and a big hot rodder, thats why I pick what I pick and do what I do, he knows it all, I just cant get ahold of him everyday I need something.....but trust me he converted a corvair into a front engine LS1 running 11.20's on motor, it was out of a 01 corvette, he's in an issue of car n driver I think or hot rod mag if u think im lying its white with orange stripes...the best motor was 01-02 WS6,SS, or Z06 the Z06 was more money and only diff was camshaft, so he got a 01 WS6 motor, he told me they have 25RWHP over the others if it has the Z06 block, which I found in my WS6....I aint stupid, and im not here to fight...ur the type of guy that u have to install a bigger t/b and MAF to get power, thats not true, I just do the big power gains which are exhaust first and tun which can give you up to 70hp on a 01-02WS6, and camshaft...lid,filter,free mods are worth about 20hp all together...but on 01-02 cars its exhaust and cam...do you think installing headers,catless y-pipe, and getting a tune I will only run 12.99, when I ran that before?...I see guys with cams in their LS1's running 12.70's at best...I will atleast get .4 thenths from all my mods bud...that means 12.60 I guarantee you without touching my motor...oh wait I put new header bolts in..................

**getcha01** · 03-20-2009, 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS

Not hard at all to swap.

Thats what I was told is to to a 12 bolt swap also...but how do I do that?

**Y2KPewterSS** · 03-20-2009, 05:37 PM

Originally Posted by getcha01

Im hoping to get an extra 40-50 off headers,no cats and tune....headers 20-25hp,no cats 15-25hp, and tune 15-20hp, so im hoping for 20,

Your HP goals for the headers and tune are attainable, but removing the cats maybe nets 5. The cats on LS1s are not very restrictive. I have seen a lot of LS1s dynoed and the best I have ever seen out of an LS1 with a 6 speed, headers and tuning was 360 and usually more like 350.

**Y2KPewterSS** · 03-20-2009, 05:40 PM

Originally Posted by getcha01

Thats what I was told is to to a 12 bolt swap also...but how do I do that?

http://ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20560

The link above is a sticky in this forum, excellent write up that would help with the swap.

**getcha01** · 03-20-2009, 05:49 PM

Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS

Your HP goals for the headers and tune are attainable, but removing the cats maybe nets 5. The cats on LS1s are not very restrictive. I have seen a lot of LS1s dynoed and the best I have ever seen out of an LS1 with a 6 speed, headers and tuning was 360 and usually more like 350.

I dont believe anyone online I just believe what I see, because I believe different areas show diff numbers, and I've been to 2 dyno shops, 1 in STL where I had my tranny built, and 1 around where I live its the only 2 in STL area and they show 15-20hp on taking cats out on average, 20 is prolly for modified engine, 15 prolly for LS1's with nothing done....cats do a lot of hp robbing...you guys have any idea about that?...these days cats are way less hp robbing than before but still back in the day they would rod 40hp!!!...come on get off my back guys, I run what I run, U can call me a liar if u want but watch me run at gateway international in STL, you can look at my car i'll be there every weekend running 11.90's with a stock looking engine but with an SLP lid and headers...still stock tips too, but I will have ET streets

streets

**Hi-Po** · 03-20-2009, 05:55 PM

rob 40 hp?

**Y2KPewterSS** · 03-20-2009, 05:59 PM

Originally Posted by getcha01

I dont believe anyone online I just believe what I see, because I believe different areas show diff numbers, and I've been to 2 dyno shops, 1 in STL where I had my tranny built, and 1 around where I live its the only 2 in STL area and they show 15-20hp on taking cats out on average, 20 is prolly for modified engine, 15 prolly for LS1's with nothing done....cats do a lot of hp robbing...you guys have any idea about that?...these days cats are way less hp robbing than before but still back in the day they would rod 40hp!!!...come on get off my back guys, I run what I run, U can call me a liar if u want but watch me run at gateway international in STL, you can look at my car i'll be there every weekend running 11.90's with a stock looking engine but with an SLP lid and headers...still stock tips too, but I will have ET streets

streets

I never called you a liar. You are making more predictions than a weatherman though.

**Hi-Po** · 03-20-2009, 06:56 PM

Originally Posted by getcha01

Im hoping to get an extra 40-50 off headers,no cats and tune....headers 20-25hp,no cats 15-25hp, and tune 15-20hp, so im hoping for 20, and I ran 13.08 before all that with tore up tranny and possibbly stock clutch with 110,000mi....I have built tranny $3000 worth of workk thats with me taking it out and installing it, plus headers, spec clutch,tune...i'd say 50hp is no problem out of that...the 01-02 WS6 has some dynos from factory at 310RWHP with the 241 heads and Z06 block, which I have both from factory.....and the exhaust was very restrictive, and the header and catless y-pipe was as much a benefit as a 224/224 cam install on the 01-02 year WS6, my buddys dad has worked for GM 30 years as mechanic and a big hot rodder, thats why I pick what I pick and do what I do, he knows it all, I just cant get ahold of him everyday I need something.....but trust me he converted a corvair into a front engine LS1 running 11.20's on motor, it was out of a 01 corvette, he's in an issue of car n driver I think or hot rod mag if u think im lying its white with orange stripes...the best motor was 01-02 WS6,SS, or Z06 the Z06 was more money and only diff was camshaft, so he got a 01 WS6 motor, he told me they have 25RWHP over the others if it has the Z06 block, which I found in my WS6....I aint stupid, and im not here to fight...ur the type of guy that u have to install a bigger t/b and MAF to get power, thats not true, I just do the big power gains which are exhaust first and tun which can give you up to 70hp on a 01-02WS6, and camshaft...lid,filter,free mods are worth about 20hp all together...but on 01-02 cars its exhaust and cam...do you think installing headers,catless y-pipe, and getting a tune I will only run 12.99, when I ran that before?...I see guys with cams in their LS1's running 12.70's at best...I will atleast get .4 thenths from all my mods bud...that means 12.60 I guarantee you without touching my motor...oh wait I put new header bolts in..................

Dude, you are so far off in the deep end its crazy. First of all, get that non sense out of your head that a WS6 is any better than a regualr TA. Or a SS is better than a Z28. Thats dumb. Learn yourself, you make yourself look plain ole dumb.

and the exhaust was very restrictive, and the header and catless y-pipe was as much a benefit as a 224/224 cam install on the 01-02 year WS6

Are you kidding?

Your buddies dad sounds like a complete idiot, or he is filling you full of BS because he thinks its funny you believe this shit.

the best motor was 01-02 WS6,SS, or Z06 the Z06

Jesus, stop with this crap. Difference between the years are minimal. Sure, LS6 intake and rod bolts in 98's are known issues. But a 2001 Z28 is just as good an engine as a 2001 SS. Its a damn body package. Again, Learn yourself. I always read you posting this crap about how much better SS and WS6's are then regular Z28's and TA/firebirds. Your a retard.

Good luck on gaining a full second with the addition of LT, y-pipe, tranny work and NO CATS!!!!