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How to replace u joint?

This is a discussion on How to replace u joint? within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; So I finally figuured out that the loud noise in the rear end was being caused my worn out ujoint. ...

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    How to replace u joint?

    So I finally figuured out that the loud noise in the rear end was being caused my worn out ujoint. My question is how do I replace it? Also is there a certain brand I should go with? I was looking at some online and notice that it said greeced and non, is there a certain lube to use on the u joint? Thanks

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    Member Benner's Avatar
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    Sorry to say this but just take it to the dealer to get replaced. It'll save you a real headache. Lot of heating hammering and luck involved with them.

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    Member zmg00camaross's Avatar
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    Remove drive shaft. Remove outer caps and take big fuckin hammar (bfh) and beat on the cross until it pushes the cap out then beat it the other way to remove other cap. Or use proper tool to remove which makes it easy.

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    79 T/A -91 Firebird
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    wow...

    Get a propane torch and heat up the caps till the plastic resin comes out that is holding them in.. you will know when it comes out.. then just buy a u-joint press, they are cheap on egay. It will save you a headache of a GM dealer and quit a few dollars.

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Pewter metallic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benner View Post
    Sorry to say this but just take it to the dealer to get replaced. It'll save you a real headache. Lot of heating hammering and luck involved with them.
    Hello $85/labor hour

    If you really don't want to do it yourself, take it to a drivetrain specialist shop, they will probably charge your $30-40 to swap it out. I would avoid the stealership though, I am sure it would be over $100 at a stealership to get it done.

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    79 T/A -91 Firebird
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    Hello $85/labor hour

    If you really don't want to do it yourself, take it to a drivetrain specialist shop, they will probably charge your $30-40 to swap it out. I would avoid the stealership though, I am sure it would be over $100 at a stealership to get it done.
    Got mine quoted locally at 60 bucks a u joints.. Aint worth it IMO

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    Member Benner's Avatar
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    Local shop would be fine. I hated changing them when I worked at a dealership.

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    Thank you all for the replies. What about Greeced and non greeced u joints? I think thats what they are called.

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    79 T/A -91 Firebird
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    Quote Originally Posted by freddy_caprice View Post
    Thank you all for the replies. What about Greeced and non greeced u joints? I think thats what they are called.
    Greasable u-joints sounds like a good idea but it isnt. They are hollowed out even more and its a good chance for them to break. Lakewood solid u-joints are the way to if possible

  10. #10
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshieDoom View Post
    Greasable u-joints sounds like a good idea but it isnt. They are hollowed out even more and its a good chance for them to break. Lakewood solid u-joints are the way to if possible
    Agreed. The non-greasable u-joints have less likelihood of failure due to being stronger, and are come pre-greased with synthetic lubricant.

    Just install them and you're set, no need to regrease.

  11. #11
    Unbiased Opinion 67rsss's Avatar
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    The u-joints with zerk fittings shatter when they fail. Don't do it.

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    U-joint replacement the easy way.

    Had to swap out our rear u-joint back in March. I do not like beating on aluminum driveshafts with a hammer. Made this tool out of a slice of 2" x 4" rectangular tubing, cutting one end off, and a few pieces of flat stock. Welded it up and reinforced it a bit more than needed probably (no laughing at the welds!) as I will also use it on other vehicles.

    Placed the driveshaft in the press, put a large socket under the cap to be pressed out, and postioned the tool so that the arms rest on each side of the cross. The ends are slightly dished to keep the tool centered over the u-joint as pressure is applied. This allows the joint to be pressed out without any risk of collapsing or damaging the yoke. Worked like a charm -- total investment a few pieces of steel that were laying around the garage, a little work with the Sawzall, and about 10 minutes of welding.






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    Great advice guys thank! I love this forum.

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