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How good is the rest of the car?

This is a discussion on How good is the rest of the car? within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I guess what i ma trying to get info/opinions is how good is the suspension on the T/A I.E.-Lower control ...

  1. #1
    Member Phlash_riot's Avatar
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    Midnight Blue
    1999 T/A

    How good is the rest of the car?

    I guess what i ma trying to get info/opinions is how good is the suspension on the T/A I.E.-Lower control arms; Pan hard bard; A-arms; K-members; etc etc
    Are they worth staying with stock or should i look to replacing them. Found a website that sells all this sort of stuff not sure if i should investing any of it. Basically right now i have a stock car. I looked under the car last night and saw that i already had a weld-on boxed style sub frame connector(I don't think that the car came factory equipped with it(powder coated black?))
    and i also believe the pan hard bar to be a after market. it has swivel joints at both ends and is tubular in shape so i assume it isn't stock.

    I guess to make it easy for me to spot all the stuff on this that i am not sure of maybe someone can email me /post some pics of their under body. I have a 99 T/A if that makes a difference on the under body.

    But back to the real subject any info on suspension would be great. Should i get swivel ends on the replacements or stay with the stock rotation ends or just stay stock on it.


    I know allot is going to depend on how much i race it or drag it. But i plan to be a weekend warrior of sort at the track a few N/A mods and still daily drive it around.

    Thanks all for inputs to come

  2. #2
    Member Transam388's Avatar
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    White
    98 Trans AM

    Well if you are going to stay mainly stock I would say go ahead and get bigger sway bars with poly bushings and rear lower control arms. Since you said you are not going to the track a lot I would probably also suggest you not worry about getting adjustable stuff. It does sound like you have an aftermarket panhard bar which is cool as well as subframe connectors which is even better in these cars. The boxed design you mentioned sounds like Hotchkis. The stock components are OK but aftermarket are usually stronger and lighter than the OEM. K member in stock form is very heavy so going to a tubular would save you some weight but they are fairly expensive and again for what you said you do I would say don't bother yet. In all of this though I would say whenever a bushing is used, go to poly, which most aftermarket components have an option for as it will be a firmer more stable bushing. BMR makes really good suspension components with many options. One thing to remember also is you can just do small changes and see what you think before going all out. Again though I would say just to start go with tubular lower control arms with poly mounts and not adjustable, along with bigger sway bars and new poly bushings. You will get slightly better straight line holding, less wheel hop, and better cornering with the bigger sway bars. If you feel like it you could also do a strut tower brace which also helps with cornering and they are pretty cheap.
    98 T/A: HPE 5.3 Heads, 238/242 113 cam, Kooks 1 7/8 stepped LT headers, Custom Y pipe, Cut out, Borla, NW 90MM TB, FAST 90MM Intake, TB Bypass, Under Drive Power steering and Crank, 150 Dry NOS, Yella Terra rockers, 3400 TC, HPE tuning,

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