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Ford 8.8 vs 9" vs 12 bolt?

This is a discussion on Ford 8.8 vs 9" vs 12 bolt? within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Firebirdjones I worked with a guy and am still friends with the guy that builds chassis for a living and ...

  1. #21
    Junior Member incbed's Avatar
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    Firebirdjones
    I worked with a guy and am still friends with the guy that builds chassis for a living and he also custom fabbed all the rearends him self,,unless the customer wanted to buy there own.Most of his clients and himself run PRO MOD.
    SO I have a pretty good bit of knowledge to how the jig or jigs needs to be set up and i'm sure he would be glad to help me.

    I have done something like this before with my uncles asphalt car and he is still using it today ,, it probly has over 2,000 laps on it.

    Also I have a Snap-On mig welder.
    So making a jig using the F-body doner axle assembly will be no problem.
    Also I want to keep the factory axle width,,I don't like wheel spacers,because I don't trust them.
    .
    I never said I wanted to use a ladder bar set up ,,,that was someone else that posted that.But to be honest i'm not exactly sure if I want to use ladder bars or torque arm or something else.
    The problem I see with using ladder bars is space for after axle exhaust. My car is lowered a pretty good bit,,(ask Damian)
    Lastly i'm in no hurry and i'm the type that likes to do what I can my self ,,and not pay or rely on someone else to do it for me.

    The only thing I havn't done to my car myself is the transmission rebuild and the tune ,,which (Damian) will be finishing soon.

    Yes maybe the OP doesn't have what is involved with doing what i'm wanting todo and what others have already done,,,but if he can and is willing to then thats alot of money saved over buying and aftermarket axle housing.

  2. #22
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    As long as you have access to a jig and the knowhow then this is a great method. I just wanted to point out to everyone this isn't the simplest route to go and isn't for the mechanically challenged. The first post made it sound as though it was much easier.
    Which is why I've done them with (and suggested to use) 9 inch ford housings and simply buy the brackets needed from Currie. Still cheap to do and it's simple. Less fab work.

    Let us know how the 8.8 swap with a torque arm works out for ya. Would make for a nice writeup with pics along the way.

  3. #23
    Junior Member incbed's Avatar
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    Hopefully I will be getting started the first of November.

    Also agian i'm still not sure if I want to use the torque arm or not,,,I will need to spend some more time laying under the car,,before that option is set in WELD.

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    Member Supershafts's Avatar
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    I would be willing to bet the op posted this as a option to the rears already available and never got past that idea at all

    By the time the other expenses are all added in and needed to do this, you can have 2 diffs ready....the jig = $$$, the welder = $$$, probably the knowledge of how to set the ends and brakes and angles for the brackets.... all the other little tools one might not have that will be needed to perform such a task....

    so that brand new dana 60 ready to bolt in is a great and fair price...

    Not to mention that you are welding something for strength and will see other forces against it then 1 dimensional.....


    .

  5. #25
    Junior Member jjjr311's Avatar
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    i have a stock rear and it only spins posi straight or to the left...whenever i make a right turn spins the right wheel alot and it can make you crazy!!! Is this normal?

  6. #26
    Junior Member incbed's Avatar
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    yes this is normal in most cases unfortunantly.

    also the next time you have the rear of your car off the ground turn one of the wheels and you'll notice they spin opposite,,,but if you spin the drive shaft by hand then both wheels will turn the same direction.

    If your trying to show out ,,just make sure you make a left hand turn or your going straight.

  7. #27
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supershafts View Post
    I would be willing to bet the op posted this as a option to the rears already available and never got past that idea at all

    By the time the other expenses are all added in and needed to do this, you can have 2 diffs ready....the jig = $$$, the welder = $$$, probably the knowledge of how to set the ends and brakes and angles for the brackets.... all the other little tools one might not have that will be needed to perform such a task....

    so that brand new dana 60 ready to bolt in is a great and fair price...

    Not to mention that you are welding something for strength and will see other forces against it then 1 dimensional.....


    .
    I posted the question because like you said it was an idea passed to me by a fellow gear head that has done it to a Rubicon. He has installed a LS1 into the Rubicon and thought that this might be something I could look at for my T/A. I'm not to familiar with Rubicons so I don't know if they have TAs or something else for the rear suspension.

    I do know that this has thread has given me some more insight into this type of rear end. If I had access to a shop that does this I might pursue, because I do not have the tools or the level of skill to try something like this. Not that I'm unwilling, just would like to have some one there that knows what they are doing to modify it to a F-Body purpose. It has also given me some questions to ask my bud next time I see him.

  8. #28
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I posted the question because like you said it was an idea passed to me by a fellow gear head that has done it to a Rubicon. He has installed a LS1 into the Rubicon and thought that this might be something I could look at for my T/A. I'm not to familiar with Rubicons so I don't know if they have TAs or something else for the rear suspension.
    Rubicon as in Jeep? They use coil sprung suspension with control arms top and bottom (no torque arm and more articulation). They also come factory equipped with Dana 44's front and rear with air lockers in both. About as good as it gets for a jeep and pretty stout for even tough off roading. Not sure why you would change those. Had an 05 Rubi, went anywhere I cared to go.

  9. #29
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    He beefed the rear because of the LS1 he put in front. The Dana 44 blew out. that's why he up it to the 8.8 rear. You kinda indirectly explain why he used that rear (giving me what rear suspension a Rubicon has). He had no need for a TA like ours do so it would be a good option for him.

  10. #30
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    There are places that make Torque Arm kits for Mustangs with 8.8 rearends. A person could get that kit and modify the torque arm from the Mustang kit to fit into an F-body. That wouldn't be too hard for a average chassis shop.

  11. #31
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Ok. Let me see if get diz lol
    So the ford rear ends can fit on f-body?
    And for what I'm readin it's better than gm rear end.
    Is it really worth it to do the custom job for all this?
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  12. #32
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98maro View Post
    Ok. Let me see if get diz lol
    So the ford rear ends can fit on f-body?
    And for what I'm readin it's better than gm rear end.
    Is it really worth it to do the custom job for all this?
    Not from my experience. Just not worth the fab work for the 8.8, something most people can't do themselves and paying a fab shop gets expensive to the point where you have to think, is it really cost effective??

    The 9 inch is much easier for the average joe to fab and install, since Currie makes all the brackets, practically making the 9 inch a drop in deal other than possibly narrowing for correct width.

    If people can't do that, then buying a drop in rearend ready to go from various manufactures would be the way to go.

    Get rid of the torque arm however, and everything changes.

  13. #33
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    dana, 9" or 12 bolt...enough said....for the average person ..all the fab work will eventually outweigh the cost of just getting one that is already built..shit you can buy a housing for 1000-1200 and source out the other parts and be in pretty good shape on a 9 or a 12 that is built JUST for us

  14. #34
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    .shit you can buy a housing for 1000-1200 and source out the other parts and be in pretty good shape on a 9 or a 12 that is built JUST for us
    That's how I do it anymore. Buy the bare housing so I can source my own parts that I like to use and assemble it myself. I do them about ~$300 cheaper than a ready built drop in unit and it gives me the chance to also fab brake line tabs and a few other little details before I paint it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    That's how I do it anymore. Buy the bare housing so I can source my own parts that I like to use and assemble it myself. I do them about ~$300 cheaper than a ready built drop in unit and it gives me the chance to also fab brake line tabs and a few other little details before I paint it.
    why dont you fab me up a new 12 bolt old man..............











































    on the house

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02_slp_ss View Post
    here is a way to get away from the tq arm problem..... i been looking in to doing an 8.8. this place makes a mini latter bar, i really been wanting to do this im sure u can make it cheaper. but just thought i would show it to u guys so u can get your mind going just like mine is. an also from 79-04 a GT stang rear is almsot the same width as the f body rears so they will work to

    http://www.g-forcesuspension.com/pag...og/i.php/81/55
    they spelled camaro wrong...

  17. #37
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    BMR makes this torque arm setup for 67-69 camaro's. Could modify it.

  18. #38
    Member zmg00camaross's Avatar
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    Myself went with a Midwest chassis fab 9 inch and if i would have to do it again I would buy another. The damn thing fit great has a short arm mount for my TSP true duals, And his rear is a great price for what you get. Also great customer service.

  19. #39
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zmg00camaross View Post
    Myself went with a Midwest chassis fab 9 inch and if i would have to do it again I would buy another. The damn thing fit great has a short arm mount for my TSP true duals, And his rear is a great price for what you get. Also great customer service.

    Can you pm me how much it cost you if you don't mind?

  20. #40
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    why dont you fab me up a new 12 bolt old man..............











































    on the house

    Tell ya what, our distance makes it difficult, but if you drive the car out here, make a vacation out of it. We'll order the bare housing and all the parts to be shipped here. When you get here you can hang/help while I assemble it, then stick it in your car while you're here.

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