f150 8.8 swap

**joshpruett66** · 09-05-2014, 08:22 PM

I have a 1999 ws6 and I also have a 2000 f150 with an 8.8 rear and 3.55 gears non ls. So after reading here about the the 8.8 swap I got to thinking of taking the rear from the truck to put in the ws6. (Truck has blown trans) I started researching to figure out the width on both rears. Actually found on one site that the 7.5 is 65.5" from flange to flange then found on another site the 8.8 f150 axle with drum brakes is also 65.5". Only mine has disks and I couldn't find anything saying what that length is. Anyways I'm wondering if anyone here can guide me in the right direction based on what I already have to use. I suppose I first need to verify the lengths. Then order new axles for the right lug pattern, Then of course the ta mount and other parts to swap over. Any input would be greatly appreciated

***SMWS6TA*** · 09-05-2014, 09:11 PM

Not sure if you've read this thread below but I put everything I did in it.

If you have any questions that are not addressed in the thread just ask.

It's a long read but you can see all that I did and had to address.

www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

***SMWS6TA*** · 09-05-2014, 09:16 PM

Also IIRC the truck 8.8's axles are off set, meaning one side is longer then the other. You may have enough room on one side but not enough on the other.

**joshpruett66** · 09-06-2014, 08:44 PM

Ok thanks for the help. hopefully that's not the case with the axle. from what I have read the explorer axles do that. but I'm not sure on the truck. I'm going to take a look at it tomorrow and actually take some measurements so I'll have a better idea of what I have to work with

**pajeff02** · 09-07-2014, 04:54 AM

Not a thing wrong with swapping in an 8.8 if you have the time, tools and skills to do it. From reading Scott's thread there is a lot involved in the swap and in some cases you may be further ahead just buying an axle from Strange, Moser or Midwest that is made to bolt in without any modifications.

***SMWS6TA*** · 09-07-2014, 06:42 PM

Josh where in AL are you?

Jeff right I was surprised at how much I had to do once it was all done. I also like the challenge and I have something that is different from the others.

Explorer rears are the bigger and stronger of all the 8.8's If you have a Mustang rear it would have cost much less and been a little easier. The truck rears not to sure but my buddy has one and I remember it needing attention on one side. We think it might work with 9" housing ends. When he's ready and I'm able to I'll be helping him on his 8.8.

**joshpruett66** · 09-07-2014, 08:33 PM

I'm from butler Alabama. but I stay away for work most of the time. I didn't get a chance to do any measuring on the truck axle before I had to leave today. maybe I could get some answers through here. I'm going to be moving to Tennessee at the end of the month and I'll have the weekends to work on things for awhile. so mainly just trying to get a game plan in mind for everything

**joshpruett66** · 09-07-2014, 08:52 PM

Jeff I just took your advice and started to look for bolt in rears from summit and I came across a ford 9" that they claim to be bolt in for an fbody. I assume it has the torque arm mount and everything already to go. only thing it didn't come with was brakes. I was surprised to see that it was only around $1200. of course I was thinking I could do the 8.8 (if I was lucky enough to not do any length modifying) for the cost of axles and whatever the torque arm mount ended up costing. which shouldn't be more than $500-$600. I wouldn't mind spending a little more for the ease of everything just bolting in.

**pajeff02** · 09-08-2014, 02:17 AM

I installed a Moser 12 bolt in ours. With the 33 spline axle upgrade, True Trac, welded sway bar and relocation brackets it tipped the scales at $2,800 in bare steel. Depends on your options and such, but the torque arm mount is the critical item that you need to have. I wasn't aware that Summit listed a rear for our cars. Chances are it is a Strange or Moser.

One other thing you'll need to consider is drive shaft length. I upgraded to a PST shaft, but had to go around 3/4" shorter (if I recall correctly) due to the dimensional differences between the 10 bolt and 12 bolt. Also a good idea to plan for 1350 series U-joints.

***SMWS6TA*** · 09-08-2014, 06:42 AM

That price sounds like it's just for the housing only.

If you order your axles form Moser you also need to know if you are going to run 3 or 4 channel.

**Firebirdjones** · 09-09-2014, 10:52 AM

Originally Posted by joshpruett66

Jeff I just took your advice and started to look for bolt in rears from summit and I came across a ford 9" that they claim to be bolt in for an fbody. I assume it has the torque arm mount and everything already to go. only thing it didn't come with was brakes. I was surprised to see that it was only around $1200. of course I was thinking I could do the 8.8 (if I was lucky enough to not do any length modifying) for the cost of axles and whatever the torque arm mount ended up costing. which shouldn't be more than $500-$600. I wouldn't mind spending a little more for the ease of everything just bolting in.

The $1200 price is just the bare housing ready to fit and accept the guts you want to install.

In the end you'll end up spending much more than $5-$600 to fab an 8.8 in that thing. Not to mention all your time is worth something. I went over alot of that with Scott before and during his build and he still stuck it out bless his heart

. It's a learning curve for sure.

Back in the day before drop in housings were offered, we'd fab up 9-inchers. Currie makes the torque arm adapters, and we'd cut off the other brackets, reweld, shorten the housings and reweld 9" housing ends on, new axles, new 3rd member. Even back then it was a $1500 adventure (not including the price of a used 9") and the 9" housing is much easier to adapt for starters. Nowadays used 9" housings aren't as cheap and plentiful. Haven't had to do one like that in years.

It's just spendy, no real way around it now. My opinion, I did the same as Jeff spent $3k on a drop in 12 bolt and call it done. When you think about it, it's cheaper to just ditch the Fbody and go out and buy a 5.0 fox body that already has an 8.8 from the factory, then you don't have to worry about a rearend upgrade

***SMWS6TA*** · 09-09-2014, 10:59 AM

Just need to get a LSx upgrade to make the Mustang fast...

And FBJ, I'm stubborn what can I say

**Firebirdjones** · 09-09-2014, 11:01 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Just need to get a LSx upgrade to make the Mustang fast...

:

And I'm working on that part

**joshpruett66** · 09-09-2014, 11:43 AM

haha thanks guys. maybe I can grab another fbody rear end to snag the brackets from and work on the two rear ends without having my car down. that way I can spread it out over time and spend the money as I can. I really can't justify dropping 3k at one time any time soon. at least not until after my wedding in April

**35th-ANV-SS** · 09-11-2014, 08:40 PM

Add it to the registration gift list.

**schmen** · 09-14-2014, 04:07 AM

There is a lot of info online about doing 8.8 swaps in the Jeep community. It won't help you find specific fare body info but you can find a lot of good stuff on lengths of housings, ratios, tips for brake conversions etc.