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excessive rear end back lash be reduced w/ hand tools?

This is a discussion on excessive rear end back lash be reduced w/ hand tools? within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; ...

  1. #1
    Member qwik219d9's Avatar
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    excessive rear end back lash be reduced w/ hand tools?

    Can excessive rear end back lash be reduced w/ hand tools?

    Vehical is a 99 Chevy Astro van w/100K miles van runs excellent except
    For the clunk.

    When at a stop light the rear end seams to clunk if I let off the brake
    to quick, Iím thinking there could possiablley be excessive rear end
    back lash, can this be reduced w/ hand tools like can I remove the cover and tighten the carriage bolts? or some other bolts?

    Or is the gears just worn out?

    all I have done so far is check the fuild level which is fine and the fuild is still a brownish color.



    I plan to later jack the right wheel off the ground and twist it to see how much loosenes there is how much is to much?

    What all Chevy vehicals have the same complete rear end that can be swapped into the Astro? the 99 has rear drum brakes.

    Thanks for any helpful advice.

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Over tightening the bolts will result in crush bearings and excessive ware on the races.


    The extra play you're needing to address will require rebuilt. The parts aren't too expensive. IIRC a total bearing kit cost me $140 for my 8.8 rear. It's the pinon setup that takes the time & tools that cost.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    You sure that isn't excessive drive-shaft play you're hearing?

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    Member qwik219d9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Over tightening the bolts will result in crush bearings and excessive ware on the races.


    The extra play you're needing to address will require rebuilt. The parts aren't too expensive. IIRC a total bearing kit cost me $140 for my 8.8 rear. It's the pinon setup that takes the time & tools that cost.
    what is IIRC? this $140. is this a complete rebuilt kit for rear end including ring and pinion seals ect?

    what is the average cost of this rebuild? did you rebuild you'r 8.8?

    mite be easier just to swap the intire rear end?
    Thanks
    cam-LTs-FAST78-Susp.-Rims

  5. #5
    Member qwik219d9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwik219d9 View Post
    Can excessive rear end back lash be reduced w/ hand tools?

    Vehical is a 99 Chevy Astro van w/100K miles van runs excellent except
    For the clunk.

    When at a stop light the rear end seams to clunk if I let off the brake
    to quick, I’m thinking there could possiablley be excessive rear end
    back lash, can this be reduced w/ hand tools like can I remove the cover and tighten the carriage bolts? or some other bolts?

    Or is the gears just worn out?

    all I have done so far is check the fuild level which is fine and the fuild is still a brownish color.



    I plan to later jack the right wheel off the ground and twist it to see how much loosenes there is how much is to much?

    What all Chevy vehicals have the same complete rear end that can be swapped into the Astro? the 99 has rear drum brakes.

    Thanks for any helpful advice.
    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    You sure that isn't excessive drive-shaft play you're hearing?
    while Van was in Park I crawled under and grabbed the driveshaft w/ my hand and tried to twist it it wouldn't move any.

    was this the proper way to check a drive shaft?

    OK according to this man
    car should be in neutral w/ one wheel off the ground.

    I'll recheck sure hope it's a worn U joint instead of a rear end.
    Thanks
    Last edited by qwik219d9; 11-10-2014 at 05:46 AM.

  6. #6
    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    rebuilding a GM 10 bolt rear is not that tough but if you have never done this type of work before and this is your DD you will want a pro doing the work for you. Expect to pay about 600 to 700 including parts and labor.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

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    I would bet on about three other possible issues before I would suspect excessive backlash as being the source of the clunk.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I would bet on about three other possible issues before I would suspect excessive backlash as being the source of the clunk.
    U-Joints, Suspension and trans mount. Am I close ?

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    Only other possibility is a loose caliper.

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    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    My vote is the u-joint.

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    U-joint. Any update?
    It's on jackstands.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Only other possibility is a loose caliper.
    So, you had to play the "Loose caliper" card on me. lol

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    Been a few members that have had that issue over the years. My Moser is set up loose and although it whines and carries on with the tunnel mount torque arm, it doesn't clunk or bang.

  14. #14
    Member qwik219d9's Avatar
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    OK Guy's remember this is a 10 bolt on the Chevy Astro van.

    I have been reading a lot of stuff that will cause this clunk even on new trucks and vans, I have only visually inspectedhe U joint it appeared intack I will jack the wheel up and twist and move driveshaft for u-joint movement.

    I have also read that the shocks could cause this clunk how would I inspect this?

    I have also read the rear drum brakes could be hanging up how is this checked?

    It seams the most common response on the net is that the front of the drive shaft the splines that attach to the trans, are dirty and need cleaning and greasing.

    If the rear end infact needs to be rebuilt can I use a Posi (GM code G80) diff. from a F-body RE. in the Astros 10 bolt housing? from what I understand about the Astros housing is it is off set and each axel is a different length however some Astros did come from the factory w/ the posie RE.

    This Van will eventually get a LS type motor and 4L60E so I'm planning ahead.

    edit: this clunk is intermitant like today I was cruising around and it didn't clunk once.

    Thanks
    Last edited by qwik219d9; 11-13-2014 at 07:23 PM.

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    As the shock bushings wear out, they loosen up and you can have metal-to-metal contact between the shock and the mount. Drum brakes can hang up when they are wet -- my Ranger used to do it all the time. It helped to take a angle grinder with a sanding disc and bevel the ends of the pad. I can't imagine the driveshaft splines are an issue -- they are internal to the back of the transmission and are totally sealed from dirt and debris -- plus the splines are lubricated by transmission fluid.

  16. #16
    Member qwik219d9's Avatar
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    Jeff do the wheels have to be off the ground to test the shocks or there bushings?

    the other day when I was under the Van looking for loose stuff I grabbed the shock and tried to move it it was solid probablley because of all the Vans weight was on the ground.

    I didn't observe oil leaking from the shock, I also pressed down on back of Van serval times to see if it would continue to bounce (like w/ a worn shock) and it didn't.

    can I replace just the shocks bushing if they are worn?
    Thanks
    Last edited by qwik219d9; 11-15-2014 at 06:05 AM.

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    On our Suburban, I was able to rattle the shock with the truck up in the air and the axle hanging. Guess it depends on where the noise is emanating from as to whether you will be able to reproduce it. I always just change out the shocks -- even good ones are not too expensive. It is the Konis and such that cost an arm and a leg.

  18. #18
    Member qwik219d9's Avatar
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    Concidering air shocks for rear for a few reasons
    smooth air like ride will it be like riding on air for rear passengers?

    can the rear stock ride height be lowered a tad for cruising around town?


    Hereís what Iím concidering
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gabriel-air-sho ... bf&vxp=mtr

    I will be occasionalley towing a 2.4K LB boat w/ about 180 LB tongue weight, I also expect a nice smooth ride.


    Maybe I can air up a tad when towing then air down when cruising.

    How is this air adjusting done like do I mearsure the current stock ride height from the back bumper to the ground and use that as a bench mark?

    Also if I get new air shocks for the back will the front require new air shock, regular shocks or can I leave the orginales on? Iíve read the fronts are a bit difficult to install.

    Edit: the air hose w/ these shocks is there like a bracket that holds the air tube schader valve and is this tube like a Y-ed tube that airs/unairs both shocks? Also mounting suggestions would help.

    The Van has a smaller OE spare under the back.

    Thanks

  19. #19
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    Air shocks act like an adjustable helper spring. You add air to level the truck out. It the same as filling a tire. You should recheck the ujoints. Park the van on level ground and block a wheel so it doesn't roll. Put it in neutral. Then try to rotate the driveshaft. If you feel play in it you can narrow it down to where it is coming from. While down there push up on the tranny tailshaft to check the tranny mount.

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    I had air shocks back in the 80's -- rough ride but the rake was cool.

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