clutch problem questions

**99TALS1DRVR** · 05-08-2009, 05:22 AM

Hey everyone I need your opinions with a clutch issue I am having. I have recently put in an LS6 clutch in my 99 T/A and all was well for about a month now. Recently my clutch pedal doesn't want to return to top position after you press it to the floor. I have checked the fluid and all was good and we opened the bleeder to check for air. So I am wandering if the master cylinder is going out. or.. you tell me

**konigandy6** · 05-09-2009, 07:26 AM

Possibly slave cyl. is leaking. I replaced my slave and master when I upgraded to the LS7 clutch and havnt had that problem since.

**TA2000conv** · 05-19-2009, 10:05 PM

Had same problem with clutch pedal not returning to top. Had to pull it back with toe. Replaced the master cylinder to fix the problem. It's not the slave leaking because you are not losing fluid. The fluid is leaking past the plunger in the master.

It's a bear to get to the master cylinder under the brake power boost. Hardest part was pulling the roll pin out of the master cylinder to release the braided line going to the slave. I used a piece of wire from a large safety pin. I made a tight hook in the end, and then used the wire held by needle nose vise grips to pull the roll pin out of the master cylinder.

Best of luck. Have patience.

**km346** · 05-20-2009, 08:40 PM

like TA2000 said, It definitely sounds like a bad master cylinder. This is a common problem on 98-00 cars and GM supposedly upgraded the hydraulics in 01 to fix it. I also have replaced mine on my 98. It is not in the best place to change, and having to crawl under the dash sucks but overall it wasn't too bad. Take your time and make sure you have a buddy to give you an extra hand.(and calm you down when you start cursing) The GM Part number is 12570277...

**Cold Zero** · 05-21-2009, 04:08 AM

Take it as a rule when upgrading to any clutch .. replace the following to avoid lossing your money and time .. and to gain smooth running car ..

1. Slave / Master cylinders ( even if your car 2001 or 2002 )
2. Preasure Plate and Flywheel Bolts ( GM or I recommened to use ARP )
3. New Polit Bearing

This can let you avoid any problems occurs .. remember that when not replacing slave cylinder and it comes out it will break the clutch !!

**TA2000conv** · 05-21-2009, 06:48 PM

[QUOTE=km346;1933843]like TA2000 said, It definitely sounds like a bad master cylinder. This is a common problem on 98-00 cars and GM supposedly upgraded the hydraulics in 01 to fix it. I also have replaced mine on my 98. It is not in the best place to change, and having to crawl under the dash sucks but overall it wasn't too bad. Take your time and make sure you have a buddy to give you an extra hand.(and calm you down when you start cursing) The GM Part number is 12570277...

Does GM or anyone else make a make a replacement master cylinder that is more durable/reliable for the 98-00 cars?

**km346** · 05-22-2009, 10:20 AM

Originally Posted by TA2000conv

Does GM or anyone else make a make a replacement master cylinder that is more durable/reliable for the 98-00 cars?

I chose to go the GM replacement route because it is pre-bled with the complete reservoir assembly and braided line. All you have to do is bolt it in and snap the fitting into the slave. I think i cracked the bleeder twice when i got mine in the car, and that was just to get the old fluid out of my slave. If you buy one from an auto parts store you will have to re-use your reservoir and the line that you have. then you will need to bleed the hell out of it to get all the air out, which is a PITA.

There are a few companies that make adjustable masters, but they are twice the price of the GM. Ive heard good things about them, but don't feel that it is necessary.

Also the replacement clutch masters sold by GM are the newer (01,02) upgraded units...

**TA2000conv** · 05-23-2009, 03:32 AM

Thanks again km346. Just wanted to let you know that bleeding the system was not painful after the install of the master. With gravity as my helper, all the fluid stayed in the original braided line. After everything was connected, I added fluid, and most of the air bubbled out of the reservoir. I then used a syringe that made a reasonable seal in the tube in the bottom of the reservoir (syringe came with medicine for my youngster) and effectively pumped the system with it for a minute and the rest of the air worked its way up and out of the system. The only mistake I made was not filling the master til full before making the final braided line connection. If I had done that, I don't think I would have had to bleed it at all.

**silverjess** · 05-31-2009, 05:29 PM

I believe I'm having the same problem, I don't have to lift the clutch pedal with my foot yet, but it will return upon pumping the clutch a couple times. If this sounds like the same problem how much are parts for repair?? 2000 WS6, 55k miles..........

**99TALS1DRVR** · 06-01-2009, 05:16 AM

ya i am to the point where i just slip into neutral when i come to a light. But i was given some hope as on my car there is a recall notice for the clutch master cylinder. hopefully it hasnt already been replaced. then its free.