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Changing a rear end

This is a discussion on Changing a rear end within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Hi-Po I used my IR 2131. I really wish I brought my IR 2141 3/4 gun home. ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    I used my IR 2131. I really wish I brought my IR 2141 3/4 gun home. Its kinda hard to use my 5 foot cheater pipe under car. I loctited the hell outta them though and hammered on them. Should be good. Good my 9" all primered, painted and assembled today. Moving that rear end fully assembled around is a total PITA.
    What kinda torque does that impact have? Must be nice to have a nice rear finally! I'm trying to save for a 9", I need a tune, I need so much shit.....

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    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    The impact is rated at 650. In real world TQ numbers no impact comes close to that. Im going to put my TQ wrench on it today and see. They 'shouldnt' back out, with the 2 oz's of locitite on each bolt. If they do start backing out, then they will get either the 3/4 IR impact or a 6 ft pipe on top of a 2 ft ratchet.

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    Member vannatte's Avatar
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    Ok, so the new rear end is installed, but I need the backing plates from my old rear end to be finished, but I CANNOT get the axles out. Can someone walk me through this to see if I forgot anything? I wonder if it has something to do with the fact the the rear was towed in?

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    Member vannatte's Avatar
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    From what I read, my hang up appears to be the C-clips, but I can't even see them. I guess I'm going to need to get someone to push in the axles while I try to pull the C-clips out. (FYI I don't have TCS, so it isn't a speed sensor removal issue).

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    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vannatte View Post
    From what I read, my hang up appears to be the C-clips, but I can't even see them. I guess I'm going to need to get someone to push in the axles while I try to pull the C-clips out. (FYI I don't have TCS, so it isn't a speed sensor removal issue).
    Yes, you need to push in on the axle shafts to see them. Thats what is holding them in there.

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    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Yes, you need to push in on the axle shafts to see them. Thats what is holding them in there.
    Get your 9" on yet?

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    Member vannatte's Avatar
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    This axle swap has been one huge headache. I finally get the axles out and swap the backing plates and now the calipers won't go back on! I'm assuming it's because I had to press the brake pedal to shift from neutral to drive a few times. Now I'm going to have to take the pads out and compress the caliper. It's not that big a deal, but I was just ready for this to be done today, but I had to call it a day after that happened. Also, I was refilling the differential and only bought 1 quart of diff fluid!!!! ARGH!!! I'd guess I'm at least 12 hours in so far. Three times to Autozone and having no help makes it time consuming.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 01ws6er View Post
    Get your 9" on yet?
    I took 3 days off to help put a pond with a waterfall for my mother. I still have to put the brakes/rotors/tires on. After that I still have ls6 valley cover/pcv delete, and cutout. And tune this POS. EPP's 9" had zero fitment issues that I saw. It literally bolted right in. How many qts of oil did you get in? Didnt you just buy a 9" used? I read 4, I got 3 qts, plus the limited slip additive. Granted the rear end isnt totally level with out tires on it. the hardest part of this install is getting that oil in!

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    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    I took 3 days off to help put a pond with a waterfall for my mother. I still have to put the brakes/rotors/tires on. After that I still have ls6 valley cover/pcv delete, and cutout. And tune this POS. EPP's 9" had zero fitment issues that I saw. It literally bolted right in. How many qts of oil did you get in? Didnt you just buy a 9" used? I read 4, I got 3 qts, plus the limited slip additive. Granted the rear end isnt totally level with out tires on it. the hardest part of this install is getting that oil in!
    Nah, I had 1 that I wanted but didn't have the money and another that sold too quickly, so I'm still in the hunt. I've been paying bills off here and there so it feels like every time I go and pay off one bill, something pops up and I can't jump on it fast enough... Maybe I'll just have to wait for a brand new one and get a locker with either 3.90's or 4.11's with 33-35 spline axles like I want...

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    Member vannatte's Avatar
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    Now I'm upset. The install is done and I take it out for a test drive and the differential was making a God-awful grinding noise! I didn't even feel safe driving it more than a couple of blocks and then I pulled back in the garage and parked it. I know I put everything together right. Any suggestions on what it could be? Keep in mind it was a used rear end, but I was assured it worked properly.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Bent backing plate rubbing on the rotor? Run it on jack stands to see if you can make the noise happen and locate its source.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Bent backing plate rubbing on the rotor? Run it on jack stands to see if you can make the noise happen and locate its source.
    I don't think that was the issue. The backing plates, rotors, and caliper seemed fine. I always hear people complaining about whining gears. How loud should this be? The guy that had the rear end before me said he didn't use shims and that it did whine. Assuming it's just a loud whine, it's louder than my Loudmouth exhaust.

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    Quote Originally Posted by vannatte View Post
    I don't think that was the issue. The backing plates, rotors, and caliper seemed fine. I always hear people complaining about whining gears. How loud should this be? The guy that had the rear end before me said he didn't use shims and that it did whine. Assuming it's just a loud whine, it's louder than my Loudmouth exhaust.
    holy hell he didn't shim it out!?!?!?!? That thing could be totally f*cked! Who the hell would just take a differential and just drop it into a rear with it slopping all over the place and just be like, "meh, it's fine" !!!

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    Dude, you're screwed.
    Every rear end needs shims. The gear set is most likely screwed up now and the rear end would need a rebuild.
    I'd stick your old rear end back in there. Take it to another shop for an alignment check. Tell them you wanna know if the rear end bent/toed in like the last shop said. GET a printout and let me know the readings. I'll give you my opinion. There is a certain amount of acceptable toe in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 01ws6er View Post
    holy hell he didn't shim it out!?!?!?!? That thing could be totally f*cked! Who the hell would just take a differential and just drop it into a rear with it slopping all over the place and just be like, "meh, it's fine" !!!
    I confirmed that he didn't use any shims. He said it worked perfectly and just made a whine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Dude, you're screwed.
    Every rear end needs shims. The gear set is most likely screwed up now and the rear end would need a rebuild.
    I'd stick your old rear end back in there. Take it to another shop for an alignment check. Tell them you wanna know if the rear end bent/toed in like the last shop said. GET a printout and let me know the readings. I'll give you my opinion. There is a certain amount of acceptable toe in.
    I meant to take a picture of the the rear end when I took it out and the tires. It's towed in so badly that you can actually see the slight bend. Also the outer 90% of the tires are completely bald while the inner 10% looks only slightly worn and has some tread left. Assuming the 3.73 differential that I bought is ruined, shouldn't I just be able to get a new set of gears and rebuild kit or swap it with my original 3.23 to fix problem? I know very little about differentials by the way so I'd be taking it to a mechanic. Can I do any harm by driving it or should I have it towed?

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    yeah you can drive it to the shop and have them swap the stuff from the old diff to the new one.

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    Member vannatte's Avatar
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    Here are the pictures I was referring to:

    Towed rear end


    Worn right rear tire


    Worn left rear tire
    Last edited by vannatte; 05-31-2009 at 08:47 PM.

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    Here is a video of the sound I am hearing. The quality isn't great, I was using my Blackberry.

    http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/n...90531-2049.flv

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Yeah the axle tube on the left of the picture is definitely toed in. The right one looks better but might be toed in a little bit.
    That noise in the video sounds TERRIBLE. So yeah you definitely need a gear swap. swapping from the old rear is definitely the most cost effective way to go.

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    man, sorry to hear about all your bad luck. What does it take to bend an entire rear like that? That new one sounds bad too. I think at this point your only way to make the best of the situation is to swap those insides over. I guess if you're looking for a silver lining you gained the experience of swapping a rear.

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