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Changing Aft U-Joint

This is a discussion on Changing Aft U-Joint within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I noticed that the aft u-joint caps look like they are retained by two set screws on either side and ...

  1. #1
    Old Pro Senator's Avatar
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    Changing Aft U-Joint

    I noticed that the aft u-joint caps look like they are retained by two set screws on either side and the tops ground flush with the surface of the DS end. Is this a factory install? Do I have to drill out the setscrews before pressing out the u-joint?

    Regards,
    Darden
    02 NBM TA - Mecham New Version Hood/Wing, Jet Hot/Hooker Headers, ProDyno exh, Chrome ROH ZS, Volant, Corvette LS1 MAF, Hotchkis LCAs, STB & Adj. PHR, BMR SFCs, Global West Traclink, SLP Bilstiens, Firehawk springs, B&M Ripper, Moser 12 bolt w/ 4.10s, Eaton Posi, LS1 Edit, Hurst line lock- more.

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    could you post a pic?


    OEM u joints have a nylon "lock" that needs to be burned out by a high temp torch, propane will not be hot enough, butane will. Do not stay on one area too long, just evenly spread out the heat.

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    Old Pro Senator's Avatar
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    That is what it is...the black plastic looked like setscrews ground off flush.

    Thanks!

    Darden

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    IT will pop like a zit so be careful, may suggest using safety glasses. Also it is a lot of nylon, so if it doesn't come loose keep applying heat till it's loose.

    The replacements will come with a e clip.

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    I just used a 6 in very heavy duty vise and a couple of sockets. When it finally broke the nylon ring, I was pulling on a 3 foot cheater bar so hard that I fell on my butt! It sounded like a pistol shot when it popped... but no damage, except to my ego.

    Didn't have a way to apply heat, but the heavy duty vise did just fine without it.

    I had tried earlier with a 5 in vise but the vise was not up to the task. The shop at work had a monster vise, so I did it there.

    Hope this helps anyone out there trying to change one of these U-joints for the first time.

    Regards,
    Darden

  6. #6
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Scott is right on the money. It's much easier to heat with a torch, the plastic will ooze out in a matter of seconds, then they press in and out much easier.

    The "set screws" you are seeing are likely just the holes in the driveshaft where they actually inject the plastic during assembly, which leaves a small piece of plastic protruding from the hole.

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    ^^ This. I usually just shear them off in my press, but melting out the stock plastic retainer is a bit easier.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    you're method of finding out about the nylon locks is much easier than my first time many years ago.....it was me, an uncle, a socket, a big ass hammer, a case of beer, and a bent drive shaft when I learned.
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