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a4 gearing

This is a discussion on a4 gearing within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; hey I know some T/A had the 3.23 gear package over the 2.73 and i was wondering how i could ...

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    Member Faught's Avatar
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    Question a4 gearing

    hey I know some T/A had the 3.23 gear package over the 2.73 and i was wondering how i could tell which i have on my 99 t/a(maybe vin #?), and what kind of gears/ shift kit would ya'll recomend for an 4l60e, that sees the drag strip a coupple of times a month?

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Look at the RPO code on the door.

    GU2 Axle, Rear 2.73 Ratio
    GU5 Axle, Rear 3.23 Ratio

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    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    2002 Z28 A4 NBM
    Sadly now demodded :(

    I believe the option code "GU5" on the door sticker indicates 3.23 gears. GU2 = 2.73's.

    All M6 cars came with 3.42's.

    I can't say for T/A's but all A4 SS's came with 3.23's. Probably the same for a WS6.

    Also, (provided the car is unmolested) an aluminum driveshaft indicates the upgraded gear set on a Z28/TA.

    Best rear gears for a street/strip A4 would be 3.73's. Although if you already have 3.23's I wouldn't bother as I have friends going 11's with 3.23's.

    Best upgrade for an A4 is a high stall TC with accompanying tranny mods. It really wakes the car up.

    And if you don't already have SFC's then do that 1st.
    67 Camaro: K-K + 797-z (look it up), 454/Th400/4.10 12-bolt = 6mpg, PS/PDB/PW tilt, tach, gauges...

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    2002 Z28: NBM/Tan, MTI smooth lid, smooth bellows, !AIR, !cats, 1-3/4" QTP SS LT's, 2-1/2" TD's with X-pipe, MagnaFlows dumped at axle, custom welded SFC's, MidWest Chassis body mount adjustable T/A, 3400 stall, 3.23 gears (was 2.73). Tuned: 343rwhp/357rwt (before TD's). Best: 12.559 @ 108+, 1.73 60' @ 3500' DA w/MT ET Street DR's.

    Carbon footprint? CLOWN SHOE!

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    Member 00ls-1's Avatar
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    ive got a set of 3.73s to put in ill let ya know the outcome ive got the a4 w 3.23 also so if uve got the 2.73 ill sell you my 3.23 if youre interested
    2000 z28 granatelli lid k&n air filter 85mm maf sensor lakewood adjustable traction bars nitto drag radialsgot 3.73s but not installed yet waaaay more to come

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    Member Faught's Avatar
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    where is the RPO code on the door i could not find it(in the dark though), is it part of the VIN?

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Faught View Post
    where is the RPO code on the door i could not find it(in the dark though), is it part of the VIN?
    RPO code is on the inside of the door on the sticker there when you open the door.

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    Member Faught's Avatar
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    lol ya found it GU5 i have 3.23 , and i just found out when i boght the car it all ready had an air lid, wisper i belive, i may get a ram air kit, but the one im looking at IDK about it seems that it takes in air the same way as stock, http://fasttoys.net/shop/product_inf...products_id=28
    to me it looks alot like a fancy free ram air mod, or should i dish out $$$ for a cold air,near 400 seems steep, i may just stick with the old ice bag under the box trick i still need to fab up a catted y pipe so i can put my LT's on too, dam i have a lot to do.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    The other way to check your gear ratio (as FYI) would be to jack the car up. Mark the driveshaft with a marker and turn the wheel one revolution. Count the number of times the drive shaft rotates.

    If for instance it rotates 3-1/2 times, you have a 3.42 gear. If it rotates 2-3/4 times, you have a 2.73.

    Sometimes people change out the rear end gearing so you can't always go by the RPO code unless you know it's been unmolested Glad you found it!

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    Member Faught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    The other way to check your gear ratio (as FYI) would be to jack the car up. Mark the driveshaft with a marker and turn the wheel one revolution. Count the number of times the drive shaft rotates.

    If for instance it rotates 3-1/2 times, you have a 3.42 gear. If it rotates 2-3/4 times, you have a 2.73.

    Sometimes people change out the rear end gearing so you can't always go by the RPO code unless you know it's been unmolested Glad you found it!
    i could just turn one of the rear wheels... sweet i learn more shit on this site in a hour than i have in years of messing arround w/ cars lol

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Faught View Post
    i could just turn one of the rear wheels... sweet i learn more shit on this site in a hour than i have in years of messing arround w/ cars lol
    Yep. To be more accurate you could turn the wheel 2 times and then divide the drive shaft rotations by 2, but for all practical purposes you only need 1 revolution.

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    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Faught View Post
    lol ya found it GU5 i have 3.23 , and i just found out when i boght the car it all ready had an air lid, wisper i belive, i may get a ram air kit, but the one im looking at IDK about it seems that it takes in air the same way as stock, http://fasttoys.net/shop/product_inf...products_id=28
    to me it looks alot like a fancy free ram air mod, or should i dish out $$$ for a cold air,near 400 seems steep, i may just stick with the old ice bag under the box trick i still need to fab up a catted y pipe so i can put my LT's on too, dam i have a lot to do.
    Glad to hear you found it and it was a 3.23 car like mine used to be. 2.73's don't beong in these cars unless your running big power and heading to the texas mile. BTW you can jsut pickup a aftermarket WS6 hood like mine for under $300 and find a totaled WS6 or someone selling a used factory setup since it's higher. I just got the Volant kit since it was cheap on a ebay auction and I like the look better and works great with the hood cutout so you can see each filter through the grills but they and the engine bay get dirty fast. I have to clean the filters every 500 to 1000k miles depending on where the cruises were . I usually do the MAF everytime and the TB every 5t time. Always clean inside just the outside of the motor is always dusty. It was meant to be driven not looked at.
    1998 Trans Am 85k miles.
    Bolt ons, MS3 113LSA cam, Circle D Stall, Tune, Modified WS6 style hood, Full Suspension, 6000k HID's, Clear Side Markers w/ Leds, Led 3rd Brake Light and 18" AR Staggered Killer Wheels w/ BFG KDW NT's.- Weekend Toy/DD
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    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    2002 Z28 A4 NBM
    Sadly now demodded :(

    Word to the wise:

    Sub-frame connectors 1st!

    Preferably weld in type.

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    Member 00ls-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS View Post
    Word to the wise:

    Sub-frame connectors 1st!

    Preferably weld in type.

    If you've got a welder at the house I bought a piece of square tubing for like $15 and had a plate of metal already.... Total cost about 20-25$ easy cheaper than buyin some

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    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    The other way to check your gear ratio (as FYI) would be to jack the car up. Mark the driveshaft with a marker and turn the wheel one revolution. Count the number of times the drive shaft rotates.

    If for instance it rotates 3-1/2 times, you have a 3.42 gear. If it rotates 2-3/4 times, you have a 2.73.

    Sometimes people change out the rear end gearing so you can't always go by the RPO code unless you know it's been unmolested Glad you found it!
    There is a way easier way, if your vehicle is stock (no gear change) and you have a steel driveshaft (rusted) you have the GU2 (2.73:1), if your driveshaft is not rusted (aluminum) you have the GU5 (3.23:1) ratio.

    SteveC

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveC View Post
    There is a way easier way, if your vehicle is stock (no gear change) and you have a steel driveshaft (rusted) you have the GU2 (2.73:1), if your driveshaft is not rusted (aluminum) you have the GU5 (3.23:1) ratio.

    SteveC
    I wrote the codes in my first post. And when you buy a used vehicle, you don't always know whether the rear end is stock or not. Hence why I posted the second way to check it, which I also explained in that post. An aluminum drive shaft doesn't mean that the gears have not been changed.

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    Member 00ls-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I wrote the codes in my first post. And when you buy a used vehicle, you don't always know whether the rear end is stock or not. Hence why I posted the second way to check it, which I also explained in that post. An aluminum drive shaft doesn't mean that the gears have not been changed.
    Or if it's got 2.73s and somebody wanted a lighter shaft

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    Member Faught's Avatar
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    ya checked it by rotating the wheel and i have 3.23 gears, next coupple of pay checks will go to SFC, new A arms, and if i can sell my cherry bomb mufflers and 3" x pipe i can get my muffler shop to fab up a catted y pipe, so i can install my LT's to it.
    dang emmissions wont let me have an x pipe w/o cats

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    Member 00ls-1's Avatar
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    I don't even have a muffler and I passed inspection east Texas they really don't even look nd they sure as hell don't put a probe in your exhaust........yet

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    Member Faught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00ls-1 View Post
    I don't even have a muffler and I passed inspection east Texas they really don't even look nd they sure as hell don't put a probe in your exhaust........yet
    your in Kilgore im in round rock fing EPA screws with us in williamson county

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    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    Texas is easy I live in houston as lung as you have a tune and it passes most small shops don't do visuals. If they do just tip the guy a $20 or 2. I have a sticked thant's not even for an OBD2 car I just gave someone my ins. infor and a $50 and he gave me a sticker one time. Usually for my tint on my truck and my 5.0 I just go to a place that the guy doesn't check tint on either and I give him $60 and drive off

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