a4 gearing

[Faught]

hey I know some T/A had the 3.23 gear package over the 2.73 and i was wondering how i could tell which i have on my 99 t/a(maybe vin #?), and what kind of gears/ shift kit would ya'll recomend for an 4l60e, that sees the drag strip a coupple of times a month?

[35th-ANV-SS]

Look at the RPO code on the door.

GU2 Axle, Rear 2.73 Ratio
GU5 Axle, Rear 3.23 Ratio

[67CamaroRSSS]

I believe the option code "GU5" on the door sticker indicates 3.23 gears. GU2 = 2.73's.

All M6 cars came with 3.42's.

I can't say for T/A's but all A4 SS's came with 3.23's. Probably the same for a WS6.

Also, (provided the car is unmolested) an aluminum driveshaft indicates the upgraded gear set on a Z28/TA.

Best rear gears for a street/strip A4 would be 3.73's. Although if you already have 3.23's I wouldn't bother as I have friends going 11's with 3.23's.

Best upgrade for an A4 is a high stall TC with accompanying tranny mods. It really wakes the car up.

And if you don't already have SFC's then do that 1st.

[00ls-1]

ive got a set of 3.73s to put in ill let ya know the outcome ive got the a4 w 3.23 also so if uve got the 2.73 ill sell you my 3.23 if youre interested

[Faught]

where is the RPO code on the door i could not find it(in the dark though), is it part of the VIN?

[35th-ANV-SS]

where is the RPO code on the door i could not find it(in the dark though), is it part of the VIN?

RPO code is on the inside of the door on the sticker there when you open the door.

[Faught]

lol ya found it GU5 i have 3.23 , and i just found out when i boght the car it all ready had an air lid, wisper i belive, i may get a ram air kit, but the one im looking at IDK about it seems that it takes in air the same way as stock, http://fasttoys.net/shop/product_inf...products_id=28
to me it looks alot like a fancy free ram air mod, or should i dish out $$$ for a cold air,near 400 seems steep, i may just stick with the old ice bag under the box trick i still need to fab up a catted y pipe so i can put my LT's on too, dam i have a lot to do.

[35th-ANV-SS]

The other way to check your gear ratio (as FYI) would be to jack the car up. Mark the driveshaft with a marker and turn the wheel one revolution. Count the number of times the drive shaft rotates.

If for instance it rotates 3-1/2 times, you have a 3.42 gear. If it rotates 2-3/4 times, you have a 2.73.

Sometimes people change out the rear end gearing so you can't always go by the RPO code unless you know it's been unmolested Glad you found it!

[Faught]

The other way to check your gear ratio (as FYI) would be to jack the car up. Mark the driveshaft with a marker and turn the wheel one revolution. Count the number of times the drive shaft rotates.

If for instance it rotates 3-1/2 times, you have a 3.42 gear. If it rotates 2-3/4 times, you have a 2.73.

Sometimes people change out the rear end gearing so you can't always go by the RPO code unless you know it's been unmolested Glad you found it!

i could just turn one of the rear wheels... sweet i learn more shit on this site in a hour than i have in years of messing arround w/ cars lol

[35th-ANV-SS]

i could just turn one of the rear wheels... sweet i learn more shit on this site in a hour than i have in years of messing arround w/ cars lol

Yep. To be more accurate you could turn the wheel 2 times and then divide the drive shaft rotations by 2, but for all practical purposes you only need 1 revolution.

[RyanJM]

lol ya found it GU5 i have 3.23 , and i just found out when i boght the car it all ready had an air lid, wisper i belive, i may get a ram air kit, but the one im looking at IDK about it seems that it takes in air the same way as stock, http://fasttoys.net/shop/product_inf...products_id=28
to me it looks alot like a fancy free ram air mod, or should i dish out $$$ for a cold air,near 400 seems steep, i may just stick with the old ice bag under the box trick i still need to fab up a catted y pipe so i can put my LT's on too, dam i have a lot to do.

Glad to hear you found it and it was a 3.23 car like mine used to be. 2.73's don't beong in these cars unless your running big power and heading to the texas mile. BTW you can jsut pickup a aftermarket WS6 hood like mine for under $300 and find a totaled WS6 or someone selling a used factory setup since it's higher. I just got the Volant kit since it was cheap on a ebay auction and I like the look better and works great with the hood cutout so you can see each filter through the grills but they and the engine bay get dirty fast. I have to clean the filters every 500 to 1000k miles depending on where the cruises were . I usually do the MAF everytime and the TB every 5t time. Always clean inside just the outside of the motor is always dusty. It was meant to be driven not looked at.

[67CamaroRSSS]

Word to the wise:

Sub-frame connectors 1st!

Preferably weld in type.

[00ls-1]

Word to the wise:

Sub-frame connectors 1st!

Preferably weld in type.

If you've got a welder at the house I bought a piece of square tubing for like $15 and had a plate of metal already.... Total cost about 20-25$ easy cheaper than buyin some

[SteveC]

The other way to check your gear ratio (as FYI) would be to jack the car up. Mark the driveshaft with a marker and turn the wheel one revolution. Count the number of times the drive shaft rotates.

If for instance it rotates 3-1/2 times, you have a 3.42 gear. If it rotates 2-3/4 times, you have a 2.73.

Sometimes people change out the rear end gearing so you can't always go by the RPO code unless you know it's been unmolested Glad you found it!

There is a way easier way, if your vehicle is stock (no gear change) and you have a steel driveshaft (rusted) you have the GU2 (2.73:1), if your driveshaft is not rusted (aluminum) you have the GU5 (3.23:1) ratio.

SteveC

[35th-ANV-SS]

There is a way easier way, if your vehicle is stock (no gear change) and you have a steel driveshaft (rusted) you have the GU2 (2.73:1), if your driveshaft is not rusted (aluminum) you have the GU5 (3.23:1) ratio.

SteveC

I wrote the codes in my first post. And when you buy a used vehicle, you don't always know whether the rear end is stock or not. Hence why I posted the second way to check it, which I also explained in that post. An aluminum drive shaft doesn't mean that the gears have not been changed.

[00ls-1]

I wrote the codes in my first post. And when you buy a used vehicle, you don't always know whether the rear end is stock or not. Hence why I posted the second way to check it, which I also explained in that post. An aluminum drive shaft doesn't mean that the gears have not been changed.

Or if it's got 2.73s and somebody wanted a lighter shaft

[Faught]

ya checked it by rotating the wheel and i have 3.23 gears, next coupple of pay checks will go to SFC, new A arms, and if i can sell my cherry bomb mufflers and 3" x pipe i can get my muffler shop to fab up a catted y pipe, so i can install my LT's to it.
dang emmissions wont let me have an x pipe w/o cats

[00ls-1]

I don't even have a muffler and I passed inspection east Texas they really don't even look nd they sure as hell don't put a probe in your exhaust........yet

[Faught]

I don't even have a muffler and I passed inspection east Texas they really don't even look nd they sure as hell don't put a probe in your exhaust........yet

your in Kilgore im in round rock fing EPA screws with us in williamson county

[RyanJM]

Texas is easy I live in houston as lung as you have a tune and it passes most small shops don't do visuals. If they do just tip the guy a $20 or 2. I have a sticked thant's not even for an OBD2 car I just gave someone my ins. infor and a $50 and he gave me a sticker one time. Usually for my tint on my truck and my 5.0 I just go to a place that the guy doesn't check tint on either and I give him $60 and drive off