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9" why

This is a discussion on 9" why within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by ntimid8r Good and accurate info, thanks for your post. I have a Strange 12 bolt as well. ...

  1. #21
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ntimid8r View Post
    Good and accurate info, thanks for your post.

    I have a Strange 12 bolt as well. I didn't want to post any negative speculations that I've heard about Moser brand. But from my research, I didn't want to go with Moser. My 12 bolt has been flawless and I pump 540 rwhp through it and no issues.
    I feel it's important to get usefull information out to the public,,,whether good or bad. I wasn't the only one that had poor results from Moser, either product or customer service, I could go on and write a book but I'll just leave it at that.

    Glad to hear you are happy with that strange 12 bolt. It's a stout piece.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 06-28-2009 at 10:10 AM.

  2. #22
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    I have heard of 9 inches making noise too. I have a Strange 12 bolt, it makes alot of noise but has never broken on me. I'm pretty happy with it. To do all over again I'd go 9 inch tho.

  3. #23
    Member 2000dreambird's Avatar
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    why would you go 9" over the 12 bolt

  4. #24
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2000dreambird View Post
    why would you go 9" over the 12 bolt
    Plain and simply put....more stout.

    I know guys in the 10's with their M6's and a 12 bolt.
    I know guys that have torqued their 12 bolts housing and gotten a TON of whine, from one launch.
    What I don't know is if they were Moser's or Strange's rears.


    Putting a HP number down through the rearend makes no difference. I ran around on my stock 10 bolt and made 530RWHP. I knew better than to try to launch it though....
    When it truly matters, is when the car launches HARD from a dig.
    If you make that 530RWHP and run low 12's....the stock 10 bolt should be able to take that abuse (at least in an automatic car, the M6 beats on the rear more do too the shock of the clutch drop).
    But if you are making 530RWHP and running 10's, then you are putting stress on that rearend....and that is when you want the strongest piece under the car you can get.


    I do like Strange better than Moser when it comes to the 12 bolt.
    I still firmly believe that a Moser 9" is better than a Strange 12 bolt when it comes to taking abuse. Everyone will have their own opinions, you need to sift through them (and do some research of your own outside of this thread, like calling Bob at EPP) and form your own.

  5. #25
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    I think the big question for me would be which eats more power? I've heard, but don't know...9", 12-bolt, and then the s60 eat the most power.

    Also, when and if I break my 10-bolt, will I need an aftermarket torque arm with these rears? Of course I would want one, but just curious...

  6. #26
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by allbaugh_04 View Post
    I think the big question for me would be which eats more power? I've heard, but don't know...9", 12-bolt, and then the s60 eat the most power.

    Also, when and if I break my 10-bolt, will I need an aftermarket torque arm with these rears? Of course I would want one, but just curious...
    the dana will eat the most..then the 9..then the 12 bolt...but like C said before..for most..its about the abuse of a hard launch. Also yes after market torque arm is needed most of the time..some come with. I will be going with the midwest fab'd 9 when the time comes..but i am sure i will have a torque arm by then..so whats another 300 bucks in the long scheme of things

  7. #27
    Member zmg00camaross's Avatar
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    I have my stock torque arm with my 9 inch. It was pretty shitty getting it in there. I don't recommended it because I think it's going to snap. it tight like a rubber band. Then I can go madman and co suspension. O and why have a 9 inch, it just looks badass underneath a 4th gen

  8. #28
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    ya 300 is a good chunk of change...to add onto the 2k rear end

  9. #29
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Running my UMI tunnel braced torque arm. Had it on the 10 bolt, and I now have it on the Moser 9"

  10. #30
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    here

    i have been refering to the tunnel mount kit.

  11. #31
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Running a BMR TQ arm. There was actualy zero modification required to get it to bolt up. I have heard of some people having to notch the TQ arm bracket to clear some 9" and 12 bolts. An after market tunnel mounted Tq arm is a must. So is a driveshaft IMO. I went with PST, its a nice piece, but very pricey. Weighs the same, if not less then the stocker though and rated at 1000 HP.

  12. #32
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Running a BMR TQ arm. There was actualy zero modification required to get it to bolt up. I have heard of some people having to notch the TQ arm bracket to clear some 9" and 12 bolts. An after market tunnel mounted Tq arm is a must. So is a driveshaft IMO. I went with PST, its a nice piece, but very pricey. Weighs the same, if not less then the stocker though and rated at 1000 HP.
    That would probably be the chrome molly piece....that's all I care to run.

  13. #33
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    That would probably be the chrome molly piece....that's all I care to run.
    It costs a little more, yes. But the thing saves you in shipping cost!

    Im happy I spnt the extra cash on the driveshaft. I actually forgot to install my DS safety loop. As long as I dont put a full slick on it, Im not worried about it.

  14. #34
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    It costs a little more, yes. But the thing saves you in shipping cost!

    Im happy I spnt the extra cash on the driveshaft. I actually forgot to install my DS safety loop. As long as I dont put a full slick on it, Im not worried about it.
    If you went with the chrome molly shaft along with 1350 series u-joints you are golden. Shouldn't have to worry about it at all.

  15. #35
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    So is a driveshaft IMO.
    I should be ok...my car came with 2.73s and a steel drive shaft

  16. #36
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Steel driveshafts are better than that aluminum crap GM started using.

    Although the stock mild steel can twist,,,I've seen the stock aluminum shafts twist like a pretzel more often than not. If I had to make a choice on stock shafts I'd take the steel.

  17. #37
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Anyone happen to know about carbon fiber drive shafts? I know they are probably retarded expensive, but i was just curious how much hp you could save,that's a lot of weight saved and rotational mass...

  18. #38
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by allbaugh_04 View Post
    Anyone happen to know about carbon fiber drive shafts? I know they are probably retarded expensive, but i was just curious how much hp you could save,that's a lot of weight saved and rotational mass...
    Ya they are a tad lighter than chrome molly. I just don't care for it though. Guess they can be made strong but I have a hard time with it.

    Chrome molly is the lightest (metal) shaft and the strongest, even lighter than the aluminum shafts. It's the way to go in my opinion.

  19. #39
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    IC, good info. thanks

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