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9 inch, posi or locker

This is a discussion on 9 inch, posi or locker within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; As far as handling goes it works like this from best to worst. Torsen best but only available in 10 ...

  1. #21
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    As far as handling goes it works like this from best to worst.

    Torsen best but only available in 10 bolt.

    Limited slip/posi

    Spool

    Strength is in inverse order.

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    Junior Member Cookie's Avatar
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    sorry to revive a dead thread but im curious about the ABS stuff. Im looking at a used 9" that doesnt have ABS where as my car has the 4 channel stock. What needs to be done to get the ABS off my car? The light doesnt bother me, ill just pull the bulb. Probably noobish here but can I just not hook the ABS up? Or does that cause big problems? I dont need ABS and dont plan on using it. Im just trying to figure out how to unhook the thing.

    Im taking my car here in, in a couple weeks to have it tuned for the cam, could I just have the tuner remove the ABS on the rear and then i can drive without it for a while until I put in my 9"?

    thanks,

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cookie View Post
    sorry to revive a dead thread but im curious about the ABS stuff. Im looking at a used 9" that doesnt have ABS where as my car has the 4 channel stock. What needs to be done to get the ABS off my car? The light doesnt bother me, ill just pull the bulb. Probably noobish here but can I just not hook the ABS up? Or does that cause big problems? I dont need ABS and dont plan on using it. Im just trying to figure out how to unhook the thing.

    Im taking my car here in, in a couple weeks to have it tuned for the cam, could I just have the tuner remove the ABS on the rear and then i can drive without it for a while until I put in my 9"?

    thanks,
    When I blew my stocker a year ago and put a used 10-bolt in, it did not have ABS. I just disconnected the wires at the body and just let it be. Also, when driving without ABS, just be careful about slamming on the brakes...it took me a few weeks and a few fishtails on the highway, to get used to it.

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    Locker hands down for that much power

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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1camino View Post
    When I blew my stocker a year ago and put a used 10-bolt in, it did not have ABS. I just disconnected the wires at the body and just let it be. Also, when driving without ABS, just be careful about slamming on the brakes...it took me a few weeks and a few fishtails on the highway, to get used to it.
    It sounds like you have no brake proportioning because you should not be fishtailing around. Your rear brakes should never lock up before the front.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cookie View Post
    sorry to revive a dead thread but im curious about the ABS stuff. Im looking at a used 9" that doesnt have ABS where as my car has the 4 channel stock. What needs to be done to get the ABS off my car? The light doesnt bother me, ill just pull the bulb. Probably noobish here but can I just not hook the ABS up? Or does that cause big problems? I dont need ABS and dont plan on using it. Im just trying to figure out how to unhook the thing.

    Im taking my car here in, in a couple weeks to have it tuned for the cam, could I just have the tuner remove the ABS on the rear and then i can drive without it for a while until I put in my 9"?

    thanks,
    You need to pull the ABS unit out of the car or you will not have the proper brake proportioning. The ABS controls this.

    I eliminated my ABS with an SJM Manufacturing ABS Delete Kit.
    http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_brk_ls1.html

    The kit comes with a Wilwood Proportioning valve and pre-bent lines. You will need to cut the lines and connect them into a T fitting.

    Call them up and ask to speak to Steve. He know his stuff! He will also tell you the easy way to shut off the ABS INOP, BRAKE, and TCS lights without breaking bulbs or rigging.

    After you have the kit installed, you will need to take the car out and adjust the valve so that the rear wheels no longer lock up before the fronts.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9t8z28 View Post
    You need to pull the ABS unit out of the car or you will not have the proper brake proportioning. The ABS controls this.

    I eliminated my ABS with an SJM Manufacturing ABS Delete Kit.
    http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/cam_brk_ls1.html

    The kit comes with a Wilwood Proportioning valve and pre-bent lines. You will need to cut the lines and connect them into a T fitting.

    Call them up and ask to speak to Steve. He know his stuff! He will also tell you the easy way to shut off the ABS INOP, BRAKE, and TCS lights without breaking bulbs or rigging.

    After you have the kit installed, you will need to take the car out and adjust the valve so that the rear wheels no longer lock up before the fronts.
    hmmmmm I have a12 bolt and have the LOW TRAC lights come on often. Also one time the BRAKE and ABS INOP came on. I cant figure it out. There is a thread on Tech 8-9 pages long about this exact problem and no one has it figured out. Would buying this delete kit be a "fix" to this? ABS isnt a huge deal to me, I would rather not have it and not have these problems. It feels like my brakes are spungey when LOW TRAC light comes on. Almost like I have air in my lines. But I dont.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    hmmmmm I have a12 bolt and have the LOW TRAC lights come on often. Also one time the BRAKE and ABS INOP came on. I cant figure it out. There is a thread on Tech 8-9 pages long about this exact problem and no one has it figured out. Would buying this delete kit be a "fix" to this? ABS isnt a huge deal to me, I would rather not have it and not have these problems. It feels like my brakes are spungey when LOW TRAC light comes on. Almost like I have air in my lines. But I dont.
    Yes, eliminating the ABS will rid you of your problems. You either have no brake proportioning or you have a faulty module.

    After you delete it, you will need to do a few easy steps to get rid of the lights. I can tell you which ones and how to do it.

    Deleting the ABS actually frees up the cluttered engine bay and you drop about 16lbs. off of the nose!

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9t8z28 View Post
    Yes, eliminating the ABS will rid you of your problems. You either have no brake proportioning or you have a faulty module.

    After you delete it, you will need to do a few easy steps to get rid of the lights. I can tell you which ones and how to do it.

    Deleting the ABS actually frees up the cluttered engine bay and you drop about 16lbs. off of the nose!
    With my Iron block, I need all the help I can get. All my problems started after I bottomed out hardcore in a shitty Michigan parking lot. How much did the final tally run you? HPtuners help with getting rid of lights? How hard was the install? PITA?? Hows driving with zero ABS anyway? I do drive alot dyring summers on streets. 12,000 miles or more.

  10. #30
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    Well, Im not popular as far as being a Ford guy (Ive got a 1965 F-100). But why not buy a Detroit locker and a Posi? Thats the way I roll. Know your going to the track? it only takes about 30 to 45 min to change out the chunk. Just my opinion, thats the way I do it. By the way, Ive never had a problem with a limited slip, and Im pushing a big ole lead sled around.

    Just a thought

    Edit: dang I didnt even notice the date on this thread
    Last edited by Triple H Coating; 03-29-2009 at 12:27 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    With my Iron block, I need all the help I can get. All my problems started after I bottomed out hardcore in a shitty Michigan parking lot. How much did the final tally run you? HPtuners help with getting rid of lights? How hard was the install? PITA?? Hows driving with zero ABS anyway? I do drive alot dyring summers on streets. 12,000 miles or more.
    I drive my car year round, including light snow and heavy rain.

    HPtuners will not get rid of the lights. You will need to pull some fuses and splice some wires and ground them out.

    The kit cost me around $140 and is pretty easy to install. You will need to make some double flares (PRACTICE ON SPARE PARTS) and be creative to insure that it looks nice. I got a kit without the line lock since I do not really car for one right now.

    How does it stop? Well, it will rip the eyeballs outta your head and I have not even begun to really adjust the regulator!

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9t8z28 View Post
    I drive my car year round, including light snow and heavy rain.

    HPtuners will not get rid of the lights. You will need to pull some fuses and splice some wires and ground them out.

    The kit cost me around $140 and is pretty easy to install. You will need to make some double flares (PRACTICE ON SPARE PARTS) and be creative to insure that it looks nice. I got a kit without the line lock since I do not really car for one right now.

    How does it stop? Well, it will rip the eyeballs outta your head and I have not even begun to really adjust the regulator!
    Iill have to check into this. I havent done a double flare is probably 5 years. If I was going to do this, it would probably be a good time to do a line lock as well right? I swear, the money never stops pouring out.

    But thanks for the info, Ill probably be hitting you up for the other info.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Iill have to check into this. I havent done a double flare is probably 5 years. If I was going to do this, it would probably be a good time to do a line lock as well right? I swear, the money never stops pouring out.

    But thanks for the info, Ill probably be hitting you up for the other info.
    No problem.

    Make sure you have a good quality flare tool.

    I am going to go out right now and get a pic of it and post it.

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    Some ditch the braided line. I chose to keep em'. I plan on cleaning it up an bit but for now I am tire of working on my brakes!



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    hmmmm, wow. SO its just deleteing the block, and adding those T's and that regulator? Did you just do this recently?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    hmmmm, wow. SO its just deleteing the block, and adding those T's and that regulator? Did you just do this recently?
    Yes, you just delete the block and install the T's. Then take the car out and romp on the brakes.

    I installed this a few months ago.

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    Hours to complete roughly? Sounds like making the lines would consume most of the time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Hours to complete roughly? Sounds like making the lines would consume most of the time.
    Probably about 3-4 hours and then you will obviously need to bleed the entire system.

    You are going to need lots of rags to soak up the brake fluid that is gonna pour outta the block!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 9t8z28 View Post
    Probably about 3-4 hours and then you will obviously need to bleed the entire system.

    You are going to need lots of rags to soak up the brake fluid that is gonna pour outta the block!
    ah, thats gotta be so fun. Nothing like a chit load of paint eating fluid pouring everywhere. Its def on my things to do. Because I cant figure this problem out. I removed ALL ground and cleaned them and check all my wiring and sensors for being plugged in.

  20. #40
    Junior Member Cookie's Avatar
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    thanks for the info guys. lookin into the one with the line lock, always wanted that haha. pray for my 10 bolt until i get that 9" in!

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