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are 4.11s worth it verses 3.73s M6

This is a discussion on are 4.11s worth it verses 3.73s M6 within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I am looking at the moser 12 bolt and for a daily driver 6sp Z28 are 4.11s worth time over ...

  1. #1
    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    are 4.11s worth it verses 3.73s M6

    I am looking at the moser 12 bolt and for a daily driver 6sp Z28 are 4.11s worth time over 3.73s? I know it is boring but I don't want to loose too much mileage as I drive this to work daily and sadly can only rarely get to the track to play. I wont be bracket racing just Friday night test and tune runs. I will be adding a full exhaust (headers, ORY and magneflow catback with dynotune at the same time) l had considered a 9in with the 3.73s and later getting a second pumpkin with 4.56s but just cant bring myself to invest that much cash and effort lol Yea Yea I know please forgive me my weakness

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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    I read the post below are 4.10s worth it but the info didn't really answer my questions thanks again for any advice

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    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    IMO, I would go with the 411's. When you drive a 6 speed trans, you rarely even get into 6 gear with the stock gears. The difference 373's compared to 411's is so small you wont notice the dif in mpg's. The dif 411's make at the track will out weigh the 373's. My vote is 411 all the way. I know more people with the 411's that are very pleased with the results.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I have 4.11 gears in my 9". I personally like it. The only real drawback is that the lower the gear (higher the ratio), the smaller the teeth get on the pinion which makes it weaker. For a DD that sees minimal track time, that really isn't a concern. I'm at around 500rwhp and have been running the 4.11 setup for several years without issue.
    It's on jackstands.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    I think if you go 373's at some point in time you'll regret it. That's free ET you're passing up. If you want gas mileage I hear Prius makes a nice car for that.
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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    4.11's here as well in my 8.8 rear.

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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    LOL I would rather burn than drive prius so that is out.. that being said for those of you with 4.11s what am I looking at a 1-2 mpg or more loss? Thanks for the advice so far well except for that buy a prius one LMAO

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    Senior Member TLS_Addict's Avatar
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    Get the 4.11's....then you can always run a taller slick (more footprint!) and still have better than stock gear ratio. It changes with how tall your tires are.

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    I'm not thread jacking but I think I will be investing in a new rear sooner than later judging by the increasing noise I have been getting.
    My question is what kind of RPM's in 6th are you guys (4:11)turning on the highway say 70mph.
    I don't care about fuel, and rarely see long highway running but don't want high revs for the highway. Right now I'm at 1500@ 70
    I was looking at 3:73's but maybe should also go with 4:11's.
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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    My buddy's car with 9" 4.11 gears was doing around 1900 rpm @ 70 and about 2300 @ 80-85.

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    I like the 3.73's JMO but not much different then the 4.11's
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    With 4.11s I anticipate 2200 rpm at 80 with stock 245/50R16s and these guys have guilted me into the 4.11s with the threat of a prius LOL.... looking at you orion <G>

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    Jeff - if you type in Engine RPM Calculator online the first link has a calculator on it where you can determine RPM based off your information. Can't link from my phone.

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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    ok the Moser 12 bolt arrived finally. I got the 35 spline with wavetrac and 4.11s with the aluminum cover. Figured if I was going to blow some cash to do it right lol. still waiting on the new driveshaft to arrive so I can start the swap. with the bolt in axles and that rear cover what do I need to swap over from my old axle? it does have the swaybar mounts and adjustable control arm mounts. are there any tips to save me the headaches those of you who have gone before me. I hope this earns me forgiveness for the thought of only going 3.73s

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Depends on whether you got your new axles with backing plates installed. If not then I hope they didn't press your bearings on yet, because they'll have to come back off.

    If you got your axles with backing plates installed and bearings pressed on, then likely they have installed the axles in the housing already. All you have to do is swap your brake parts over.

    I ran the 4.10's for quite a while in my wifes SS. She was driving 200 miles round trip daily to work. Out here the speed limit is 75 mph and people routinely go 80+. She was buzzing along at 22-2300 rpms. I'd fill the car up daily and was consistently getting 24 mpg with it. A far cry from the 30 mpg it would normally get with the 3.42's. Fun around town and I actually loved the gear myself although I felt it was a tad steep for the 2.66 first gear with the very short 26" stock tire height. I would enjoy the gear more with a 28" tire for sure.
    When I ordered a new Strange 12 bolt they had a back order on 4.10's with no set date, however they had 3.73's in stock. So I ordered those to speed up the process. No regrets with the 3.73's, it feels better suited to the stock 26" tire height. Cruise RPM on the highway dropped down to the 1,900-2,000 range and she picked up the mileage to 28 mpg daily. Around town it still feels very spunky and will haze the tires just rolling into the throttle in 1st gear, something it would never do with 3.42's.
    The car would certainly ET better with the 4.10's, and could use them with the camshaft and rpm this thing likes. But I rarely get this car to the track anyway, and my wife is very happy with the gear change, stating it's much easier to take off in first gear around town where she does most of her driving now. Funny how a small change from 42's to 73's change the feel of a car.

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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    no the bearings are not installed yet. what all brake parts need to be swapped over? I assume backing plate with the ebrake parts on it, rotor and calipers? anything else that I don't know about? hope I didn't over kill my gearing lol as sadly I don't get to the track as often as I would like too. Hopefully my economy loss isn't that severe but most of my driving is 45-70 so we will see LOL either way hope to have fun

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Make sure the bolts for the backing plate will work with the housing ends. I had to order T-bolts from Moser in order to mount the backing plate to my 9" housing ends.

  18. #18
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Scott brings up a good point. My Strange came with the "T" bolts and nuts. But I still had to swap over my brake setup and press the bearings on the axles because I didn't spring for the new backing plates.

    You're in the same boat. You'll have to remove your old axles to steal those backing plates for the new rearend. Then press on the spacers (if any) the reluctor wheels (if 4 channel)Making sure when you press on your reluctor wheels that they have less than .003-.004" runout, then the bearings and bearing retainer sleeves. Then the axle is ready to install.

    Almost makes it worth the added expense to buy the new backing plates so the new rearend comes assembled and complete, ready to go, because the cost for the rearend is the same whether they assemble the axles or not. Then you just bolt on your calipers and you're done.

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    Quote Originally Posted by werewolf View Post
    ok the Moser 12 bolt arrived finally. I got the 35 spline with wavetrac and 4.11s with the aluminum cover. Figured if I was going to blow some cash to do it right lol. still waiting on the new driveshaft to arrive so I can start the swap. with the bolt in axles and that rear cover what do I need to swap over from my old axle? it does have the swaybar mounts and adjustable control arm mounts. are there any tips to save me the headaches those of you who have gone before me. I hope this earns me forgiveness for the thought of only going 3.73s

    Good choice on the WaveTrac
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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    I didn't see an option to buy new backing plates or I would have. thankfully I only have three channel as my car is a stripper model (the only stripper my wife lets me be around LOL) now what do I look for to see if I need these t-bolts to install or not?

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