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3.73s or 4.10s?

This is a discussion on 3.73s or 4.10s? within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; What kind of top speed is lost with going with 4.10's. I'm torn between the 3.73's and the 4.10's. How ...

  1. #21
    Your dealership guy konigandy6's Avatar
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    What kind of top speed is lost with going with 4.10's. I'm torn between the 3.73's and the 4.10's. How quickly afterwards did you get your cars tuned?

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    Knight of Chaos xzaero0's Avatar
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    Either way say good bye to the stock 10 bolt. Having a Moser 9" installed this week went with the 3.70s

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    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    The key to keeping the life of your 10 bolt is to allow some spin or make it NOT dead hook which can be manipulated with tire pressure in the drag radials.
    Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!

  4. #24
    LTX N20LT4's Avatar
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    10's N/A

    For anyone who has either ran a 3.90 ratio in an A4 or knows somebody running them, are they doable in a regularly driven street car??? They look to sit very nicely in between 3.73's and the more track friendly 4.11's. I have a friend that's running 4.11's in his '95 Z28 A4 and it is impractical on the highway.

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    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by N20LT4 View Post
    For anyone who has either ran a 3.90 ratio in an A4 or knows somebody running them, are they doable in a regularly driven street car??? They look to sit very nicely in between 3.73's and the more track friendly 4.11's. I have a friend that's running 4.11's in his '95 Z28 A4 and it is impractical on the highway.
    I had 3.91 in my A4 Goat and yes they were fine with a 275/40/17. It all depends on the tire too. I NEVER run a short rubberband on anything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MnLS1 View Post
    w/ 4.10's, I'm just about redlined (3rd gear) in the 1/8th @ 90mph, 60 mph in 6th at about 1700 rpm, this is w/ and M6 though
    Thats strange I have 4.10's and in the 1/8 in 3rd gear I am in the redline. I have to switch to 4th in the 1/8 mile. Thats with 17's on it. In the 1/4mile I am still in 4th at around 6200rpm. 3.90's would be perfect for my car
    Last edited by underated98z; 03-01-2008 at 12:13 AM.
    98 Z28 Camaro: FRA, Flowmaster muffler, K&N, Cutout, and 4.10's
    1/8 mile: 8.24 @ 86mph on street tires
    1/4 mile: 12.78 @ 110mph

  7. #27
    Member 666ws6's Avatar
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    I'm curious abour 3.90s too for an A4. I'm considering gears as my next mod. And 3.90s might be a good mid point but siding more on performance.

    I only drive the car on weekends and for cruising around. I may take it to the track here and there (best ET 12.6s 1/4 mile). Car has most mods except heads. 3500 stall TC.
    Last edited by 666ws6; 03-05-2008 at 03:09 PM. Reason: spelling and added content

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    guys Im knew at this i really i wanna what do you mean by stalling the car 3000 ,3200 what are these number and how do you stall? i wanna go for 3.73 but i dont know how many bolts do i have? all i know is that i have A4 T/A formula 2001 i have a ram air but it doesnt say that it's a WS6 at the back....please need help

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    Quote Originally Posted by ananmech View Post
    guys Im knew at this i really i wanna what do you mean by stalling the car 3000 ,3200 what are these number and how do you stall? i wanna go for 3.73 but i dont know how many bolts do i have? all i know is that i have A4 T/A formula 2001 i have a ram air but it doesnt say that it's a WS6 at the back....please need help
    The stall people are refering to is a converter in your transmission. When people say 3000/3200 they are referring to the RPM you converter uses to fully engage your transmission under full accelaration. It's kind of like reving the motor before you take off. Someone who is an automatic guru may have a better way of explaining this. I believe the stock converter is in the 2000-2200 neighborhood. When people change to a higher stall it's so they can launch the car at higher rpms. For the street 3000-3200 is as high as I would go.

    Bolt ons refer to mods that you can bolt on to your car like, headers, y pipe, intake, catback, etc... basically external engine mods. If your car is stock you have none.

    3.73s is the way to go for an A4 especially a daily driver.

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    stock stall is around 1600 rpm. alot of people here say go 3600 i will be doing this soon. 3600 with a tune is streetable

  11. #31
    Your dealership guy konigandy6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ananmech View Post
    guys Im knew at this i really i wanna what do you mean by stalling the car 3000 ,3200 what are these number and how do you stall? i wanna go for 3.73 but i dont know how many bolts do i have? all i know is that i have A4 T/A formula 2001 i have a ram air but it doesnt say that it's a WS6 at the back....please need help
    The Fbody came with a 10 bolt rear end. I am assuming that is what you were asking.... If you have an auto car, 3.73 is probably your best bet for gear selection. If you want to know if your car is a real WS6, check the RPO code sticker in the door.

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    would this fit in my T/A

    Ring and Pinion Ratio: 3.73:1
    Cover Bolts: 12
    Ring Gear Bolts: 12
    Pinion Spline Count: 30
    Carrier Series: 3
    Ring Gear Rotation: Standard
    Ring Gear Teeth: 41
    Pinion Gear Teeth: 11
    Ring Gear Diameter (in): 8.875 in.
    Pinion Shaft Diameter (in): 1.625 in.

  13. #33
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ananmech View Post
    would this fit in my T/A

    Ring and Pinion Ratio: 3.73:1
    Cover Bolts: 12
    Ring Gear Bolts: 12
    Pinion Spline Count: 30
    Carrier Series: 3
    Ring Gear Rotation: Standard
    Ring Gear Teeth: 41
    Pinion Gear Teeth: 11
    Ring Gear Diameter (in): 8.875 in.
    Pinion Shaft Diameter (in): 1.625 in.
    NO!

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Richmond+Gear/...744482%7C10167

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Richmond+Gear/...744482%7C10167

    One of these two depending on what your stock gear is.

    You have a 7.5" 10 bolt.

  14. #34
    let the F-Bodies roll jimmybling31's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    stock stall is around 1600 rpm. alot of people here say go 3600 i will be doing this soon. 3600 with a tune is streetable
    eh. 3600 is too high in my opinion. 3000 or 3200 is great.

    back on subject. you will not get good gas mileage at all with a 3.90 gear. with a 3.73 you won't either. after a little playing with a calculator a 3.90 would be perfect for my car in the quarter and a 4.11 would be perfect for an 1/8 for mine. I run 1/8 no 1/4, but I drive my car on the street so much that I can't even justify any more than a 3.42 gearing. if you hardly go to the strip i would weigh the fact that you are going to be paying alot more on gas. not saying that 3.73 wouldn't be nice or a 4.10 wouldnt be nice. I had a 4.10 for a week and couldn't afford the gas. i had to fill up 3 times in one week when with a 3.23 I fill up once a week.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2Tuner View Post
    NO!

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Richmond+Gear/...744482%7C10167

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Richmond+Gear/...744482%7C10167

    One of these two depending on what your stock gear is.

    You have a 7.5" 10 bolt.
    if i buy this part? do i need anything else with it? like driveshaft or torque covertor...or anything else ..

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    Quote Originally Posted by ananmech View Post
    if i buy this part? do i need anything else with it? like driveshaft or torque covertor...or anything else ..
    You will need gear lube and a installation kit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmybling31 View Post
    eh. 3600 is too high in my opinion. 3000 or 3200 is great.

    back on subject. you will not get good gas mileage at all with a 3.90 gear. with a 3.73 you won't either. after a little playing with a calculator a 3.90 would be perfect for my car in the quarter and a 4.11 would be perfect for an 1/8 for mine. I run 1/8 no 1/4, but I drive my car on the street so much that I can't even justify any more than a 3.42 gearing. if you hardly go to the strip i would weigh the fact that you are going to be paying alot more on gas. not saying that 3.73 wouldn't be nice or a 4.10 wouldnt be nice. I had a 4.10 for a week and couldn't afford the gas. i had to fill up 3 times in one week when with a 3.23 I fill up once a week.
    Gas mileage won't go down that much. No way 410s made your car use 3 times as much gas. Most guys are not seeing huge changes in fuel mileage going to 373s. I lost 1mpg going to 410s but that's with an M6.

  18. #38
    let the F-Bodies roll jimmybling31's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rc74racer View Post
    Gas mileage won't go down that much. No way 410s made your car use 3 times as much gas. Most guys are not seeing huge changes in fuel mileage going to 373s. I lost 1mpg going to 410s but that's with an M6.
    i know how much I lost. it wouldn't go below 3400 on the highway. i used a ton of gas with those gears. It also was annoying with the engine at such high rpms when you are on the highway all the time. another thing that caused it for me was it's hard to stay out of it when you can smoke the tires whenever you want to. heck with a 4.10 on there I was able to spin the tires from a 45 roll

  19. #39
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ananmech View Post
    if i buy this part? do i need anything else with it? like driveshaft or torque covertor...or anything else ..
    Depending on your car..................?

    If it has 75,000+ on it I would replace ALL the bearings at the same time. Which basically would be a Complete installation kit. No driveshaft or tq conv. replacement needed. I would have some new U-joints put in and have the drive line re balanced or at least the balanced checked.
    If you plan on ever making the car "dead hook" on some drag radials I would also buy a diff cover that has a "girdle style" system to halp pre load the carrier caps and keep it square.

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2Tuner View Post
    Depending on your car..................?

    If it has 75,000+ on it I would replace ALL the bearings at the same time. Which basically would be a Complete installation kit. No driveshaft or tq conv. replacement needed. I would have some new U-joints put in and have the drive line re balanced or at least the balanced checked.
    If you plan on ever making the car "dead hook" on some drag radials I would also buy a diff cover that has a "girdle style" system to halp pre load the carrier caps and keep it square.
    Mine did almost 95000

    will this work ???

    Brand: Lakewood Suspension
    Product Line: Lakewood Performance U-Joints
    Part Type: U-Joints
    Part Number: LAK-23011
    Solid: No
    Greasable: Yes
    Bearing Cap Style: 4 grooved
    Bearing Cap Diameter (in) Axis 1: 1.125 in.
    Width Including Clips (in) Axis 1: 2.556 in.
    Bearing Cap Diameter (in) Axis 2: 1.125 in.
    Width Including Clips (in) Axis 2: 2.556 in.
    Universal Joint Material: Steel
    Quantity: Sold individually.
    Notes: Includes internal retaining clips only.

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