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10 bolt popping

This is a discussion on 10 bolt popping within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; So my rearend at least i think the sound is coming from it its almost like a slapping clunk sound ...

  1. #1
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    10 bolt popping

    So my rearend at least i think the sound is coming from it its almost like a slapping clunk sound and if i turn the steering wheel a little bit and push the car it makes a popping sound it actually makes the rim move with the clunk sound if that makes sense im guessing its the spider gears are about go? the car makes no noise in a straight line and only makes noise sometimes around corners i cant afford a 12bolt at the moment so im hoping to make it last until i can replace it with 12

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    Member robs98mysticZ's Avatar
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    Mystic Teal Metallic:320c
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    bad c-clip??

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    Member Supershafts's Avatar
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    i'd drop the cover and have a look

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    It's possible the rear may be on it's way out, but you may want to check other componants such as - make sure the lug nuts are tight (sounds stupid, but it's always worth checking), check all the suspension componants for tightness and excessive wear, ect.. If all looks good, as Supershafts stated, pull the rear cover off and do a visual inspection.

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    I have and checked everything no teeth missing I changed the fluid to amsoil and put there limited slip additive when I bought the car its been doing it for about 6 months it did it when i bought it I didn't think much at first I thought it was a torque arm bushing u changed that and still does it so I have no idea it pops through the rims like the rims move with the popping sound like the tire is being kicked almost

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    I was thinking it could be something with the suspension to but it wouldn't cause the tire to do that right?

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    GM started using Torsen's in 99 (not my favorite) that use a helicoil cut gear to lock the tires when wheel spin is detected. (these things make metal over a period of time,,,,just nasty).

    Since it's doing it when you say the car is turning a corner, and I would assume it's the inside wheel doing it??

    Sounds like you have a locking type of issue going on, either the Torsen is going out, or a spider gear?

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    Yeah I think so to its fine in a straight line not popping or anything but it only does it I'm guessing when it unlocking once it pops its smooth I've jacked up the car and had my dad hold one side an turned it it didnt snap or pop when it unlocked I drove it in a parking lot to see if it was going bad like doing figure eights and circles no noise what would be the cheapest fix for now like a few months if it goes I heard the there's a locker called a lock rite its suppose to go into the stock carrier? I have a settlement coming in a few months I'm going to buy a 9in for it but till then and if that pans out

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Really hard for me to determine what is going on without seeing it, but if it is indeed the Torsen, I hate to recommend any type of fix since it's going to be expensive no matter what you do. I'd rather take that money and put it towards a 12 bolt or 9 inch.

    If you can refrain from driving it too much until that is a possibility, then that's what I'd do.

    If you really just want to replace the posi unit I'd use an Eaton personally, and that's about $450. If you are lucky, it might go in with the same backlash and bearing preload, if not, you'll need a shim kit.

    I vote to leave it alone until a better rear can be bought...

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    Agree - try to make it last until you can upgrade it with a better rear end.

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    Well I'm in-between the strange 12 bolt and mwc 9inch there's about a thousand dollar difference but I've heard that if you have a a4 get the 22 and if you have a m6 get the 9 I'm leaning towards the 9 because I can get the aluminum center which makes it almost as light as the 10 bolt with the Yukon gears and I liked that mwc has a lifetime warranty I'm not sure what the limitations are in that and I'm guessing that the 12 would be heavier than the 9 I think the stock 10 weighs like 160 something the mwc claims to weigh 15 more what do you guys think oh and does anyone know how ling it takes to get a rear from mwc?

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    Sorry for the typo a4=12bolt not 22 lol

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdformula99 View Post
    Well I'm in-between the strange 12 bolt and mwc 9inch there's about a thousand dollar difference but I've heard that if you have a a4 get the 22 and if you have a m6 get the 9 I'm leaning towards the 9 because I can get the aluminum center which makes it almost as light as the 10 bolt with the Yukon gears and I liked that mwc has a lifetime warranty I'm not sure what the limitations are in that and I'm guessing that the 12 would be heavier than the 9 I think the stock 10 weighs like 160 something the mwc claims to weigh 15 more what do you guys think oh and does anyone know how ling it takes to get a rear from mwc?
    I never bought into the theory of "auto go with 12 bolt and 6 speed go with 9". I've done plenty of 12 bolts for the 6 speed cars and they work great, even bottom 10 second rides.

    You'll have to do what your wallet decides. The 9" is a good rearend. It's much heavier than a 12 bolt and it takes more HP to turn it. With an aftermarket 3rd member they can be extremely tough.
    My experience,,,,I prefer Strange over Moser. If you don't want a 12 bolt and are set on a 9" I'd look at Currie. Or go with the Dana from Strange.

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    Member Supershafts's Avatar
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    I got a customer with a 12 bolt leaving at 8k all the time..... Id go 12 blt or D-60 before a 9"

    I also agree with FBJ, Strange & Currie

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    I heard the strange 12 bolt was pretty heavy is that true? The only reason I liked the Midwest chassis 9 inch was because with the aluminum center it was as light as the stock 10 from what they say

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    The 9 inch will be heavier than the 12 bolt. With the aluminum center section you will save a substantial amount but I'm not so sure it's enough to be lighter.

    The aftermarket 12 bolts are heavier than the original 12 bolts if that's what you mean. Simply because they are a new casting with more webbing and more meat around the main caps, axle tubes are also larger than originals.

    The Dana 60 will be the pig of the family

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    Member Supershafts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdformula99 View Post
    I heard the strange 12 bolt was pretty heavy is that true? The only reason I liked the Midwest chassis 9 inch was because with the aluminum center it was as light as the stock 10 from what they say

    The weight can be made up for, the loss can't. . . you're talking 10 to 12 lbs between the D-60 vs the 9, the 12 isn't heavier it's lighter by 15 to 20 compared to the 9 and D-60.
    Last edited by Supershafts; 04-01-2012 at 05:48 AM.

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    Right and with the 9 theres like a 3 or 4% power loss?

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    I believe it's 6% less efficient than the 10 bolt
    It's on jackstands.

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