Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 27 of 27

10 bolt life: roll racing

This is a discussion on 10 bolt life: roll racing within the Drivetrain forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I guess it's better to have an overkill rear than an underkill rear....

  1. #21
    Make real real sure Johns00Z28's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Germantown, MD
    Age
    40
    Posts
    2,404

    Black
    2000 Z-28

    I guess it's better to have an overkill rear than an underkill rear.

  2. #22
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Myrtle Beach
    Age
    27
    Posts
    5,561

    Black With T-Tops
    96 Z28 M6

    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    I'd like to upgrade my rear but the cost of the aftermarket rears is just too much for me to spend all at once.

    The problem is most of us guys running 300-400HP don't need a bulletproof 9" or Dana 60 or even a 12 bolt, they are really just overkill for a daily driver.

    I wish one of the aftermarket rear companies would come out with a Ford 8.8 or GM 8.5 thats a direct bolt in for out stock rears. Last I checked you could get an 8.8 for a Mustang for less than $1500, thats much more affordable than the average $3,000 cost for a 9", 12 bolt, or S60 and would easily stand up to the majority of abuse that a car is going to see on the street. Same with the GM 8.5, it does service in GM's full size trucks, and would be perfect for street driven bolt on LS1's.
    I agree with you 100%

  3. #23
    JUISSED Midnight02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Atlanta
    Age
    37
    Posts
    663

    Navy Blue Metallic
    2002 Camaro SS

    Great question. The simple fact is that running any LS1 powered f-body on the stock 10 bolt rear is a crap shoot. There are plenty of folks that tore them up from a roll with a bone stock car, whereas there are guys running 10's without a problem. I think the general consensus is that it WILL eventually break on you (especially if you're in the 450 rwhp range), the question is WHEN.

    Personally, I'm over 540 rwhp on the spray and I'm on stock 10-bolt with 3.90's. That being said, most of the time I run street radials and I do most of my racing from a roll. This is about the only time where I'm actually cool with tire spin! I understand that I'm on borrowed time and have already started budgeting for my 9" rear build.
    2002 Camaro SS M6, 2.5 PRC 5.3L heads, TFS 228/230 cam, FAST 92, bolt ons + a 10 lb bottle in the back.


    1989 Corvette L98, A4, Full bolt ons, etc.

  4. #24
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    12,552
    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    I'd like to upgrade my rear but the cost of the aftermarket rears is just too much for me to spend all at once.

    The problem is most of us guys running 300-400HP don't need a bulletproof 9" or Dana 60 or even a 12 bolt, they are really just overkill for a daily driver.

    I wish one of the aftermarket rear companies would come out with a Ford 8.8 or GM 8.5 thats a direct bolt in for out stock rears. Last I checked you could get an 8.8 for a Mustang for less than $1500, thats much more affordable than the average $3,000 cost for a 9", 12 bolt, or S60 and would easily stand up to the majority of abuse that a car is going to see on the street. Same with the GM 8.5, it does service in GM's full size trucks, and would be perfect for street driven bolt on LS1's.
    You are right in your line of thinking. Actually the 8.5 inch 10 bolts are much much stronger than people give them credit for. They have the same pinion diameter as the 12 bolts. The only real weak link in the older 8.5 is the 28 spline axles which were upgraded to 30 spline by GM around 1990,,,again same as a 12 bolt.. Even this is not a concern since you can upgrade the 3rd member to just about any spline count needed. Really can't go wrong with them,,,alot of people using them in older stuff now since the old 12 bolts are getting scarce and expensive. Dave Henninger used the 8.5 in his 7 second 160+ mph camaro for years without issues. They can be built tough.
    Problem with the 4th gens though is that damn torque arm,,,just no applications for the 8.5 housing. The ford 8.8 is also a close copy of the 12 bolt chevy with many similarities,,,so much it's kinda scary.

    You can however do a 9 inch relatively cheap without buying the high dollar housings.
    You can still find 9 inchers in the yards or local papers pretty cheap. Biggest expense is setting up a 3rd member for it. If you know some people it can be narrowed on a jig for little money and the axles re-splined.
    From there it's as easy as buying the torque arm mount from Currie Enterprises that bolts right onto the 3rd member,,,weld on your control arm and coil spring mounts and you are good to go. Much cheaper than a $3,000 drop in unit,,,just takes some elbow grease and a little know how.

    I've done a couple this way for people in the past,,,,and actually it was the only option for many years on 3rd gens long before the aftermarket stepped up with bolt in housings. If you look at some older 3rd gen race cars at the track or some do-it-yourselfers on a budget you'll see custom fabbed 9 inch setups are pretty common.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 10-15-2008 at 03:28 PM.

  5. #25
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    12,552
    You know something that has always bothered me is the fact that GM really dropped the ball on the rearends in these 4th gens. It goes back to the little H-bodies starting in 1975 when GM went to this damn torque arm setup.
    Although it was meant for the camaro back then,,,it didn't happen until the restyling changes of 1982. They were just too cheap to re-tool back then and they stuck with it. Unfortunately the cars outgrew the capability of the little 7.5.
    Would have been nice for GM to tool up an 8.5 inch housing for a torque arm,,,since they already had and still have the guts in productions,,,,then we all wouldn't be in this mess

  6. #26
    1,320 bad ass
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    holland pa
    Age
    41
    Posts
    86

    black
    98 formula

    Yea but if your GM you want stuff to break! Parts equal profits for them, as long as the rears withstood the stock horsepower and waranty periods (most did) they sat pretty. Now they really dropped the ball on the 4l60-e and alot of dealerships admitted that issue. I blew one with less than 20k, heard that was very comon,.

  7. #27
    1,320 bad ass
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    holland pa
    Age
    41
    Posts
    86

    black
    98 formula

    I guess the botom line is they (GM) could build a car that was unbreak-able if they wanted but a) it would cost too much for their target market, and b) they wouldn't sell parts if the stock parts didnt break. IMO

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Wolfe Racecraft 6 pt Bolt in Roll Bar Convertible install
    By Inferno WS6 in forum Convertible
    Replies: 27
    Last Post: 05-30-2016, 02:17 PM
  2. racing from a roll in a4
    By cobrakiller99 in forum Firebird / WS6
    Replies: 56
    Last Post: 07-16-2008, 05:47 PM
  3. Summit Racing Brake Lock/roll Stop Kit
    By kllrz28 in forum Parts For Sale / Trade
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-10-2007, 08:24 PM
  4. Wolfe bolt-in roll bar
    By LS1M in forum Cowhands, Local Parts and Fish Bait
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11-08-2005, 09:26 AM
  5. Wolfe bolt-in roll bar
    By LS1M in forum Parts For Sale / Trade
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-02-2005, 10:38 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •