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Thread: 10 bolt

  1. #1
    Junior Member FastTaz's Avatar
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    10 bolt

    ok ive heard all the stuff about the week 10 bolt rears,but I think its week in mostly high horsepower cars.or maybe Im wrong.Im getting ready to put a 4.10 in my 10 bolt,car is bone stock,just some free mods,and plan on running M/T street slicks.Do you have any idea if the 10 bolt is going to hold up,i know if i had say 400 hp probably not,but since I dont,what do you think?

  2. #2
    O U 8 1 2 Spaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastTaz View Post
    ok ive heard all the stuff about the week 10 bolt rears,but I think its week in mostly high horsepower cars.or maybe Im wrong.Im getting ready to put a 4.10 in my 10 bolt,car is bone stock,just some free mods,and plan on running M/T street slicks.Do you have any idea if the 10 bolt is going to hold up,i know if i had say 400 hp probably not,but since I dont,what do you think?
    if you do... i'd make sure you have another vehicle to fall back on or the $$ for a rebuild or aftermarket rear...

  3. #3
    Senior Member Bottesini's Avatar
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    It is a bit of a crap shoot, some do survive for a while where others will break on the first pass. For my car it is my only and very needed daily driver, so I just don't take the risk of putting sticky tires on, at least not until I get a better rear end. Even with stock power a six speed can break the stock ten bolt. There are also various degrees of breaking as well, you might just chip a tooth, or the whole thing could grenade on you. Short of it is, the ten bolt is a gamble with sticky tires on.

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    Junior Member RedMetal's Avatar
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    Well, first if you plan on driving it alot the MT DR's don't last on the street.... just run some Nitto's, they well surfice for a bolt on car. I have run 4.10's, 4.30's and now 3.90's in my 10bolt with a small cam and N20. I did manage to break a couple teeth off the 4.10's due to driver error! I got some heavy wheel hop and could have let out but I didn't and a broken ring gear was the result. So wheel hop and DR's can kill a 10bolt in a hurry. I have run on Nitto DR's and MT DR's only, not BFG DR's for what thats worth.
    F14, FLP LT's, Hooker-Catback, Ram Dual Street, 42# injectors, Granatelli 255lph intank, N20, 3.90's, Eibach Pro's

  5. #5
    Member Fran D's Avatar
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    Wheel hop is probably the number one contributor to early rear end death. It can even wound a car with just street tires. I know this from personal experience. If you are experiencing hop, it's probably best to take care of that first. Still, as already mentioned, it will only delay the point to breakage, not eliminate it. But, the frequency may be so low, you may be able to live with it.

  6. #6
    2 SS's are better than 1 Jays00ss's Avatar
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    I have seen completely stock M-6 cars blow out the rearend with sticky tires. Be prepared to trailer your car home. Don't waste the money on a gear change just get a 9" and be done with it.
    2000 SS Camaro Heads, Large cam, Fast 90, 9"w/430's and locker, yada yada yada... you get the picture

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  7. #7
    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jays00ss View Post
    I have seen completely stock M-6 cars blow out the rearend with sticky tires. Be prepared to trailer your car home. Don't waste the money on a gear change just get a 9" and be done with it.
    Almost word for word what I was going to type. M6+sticky tires+4:10s and 10 bolt=
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    I'd rather be bi than full homo!!!!

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    Member 1986camarojoe's Avatar
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    99 Z28 04 Corvette

    Mine whined extremely loud when my car was stock with an A4. I had it rebuilt and added 373s, worked great until i got a big stall, now the car isnt driveable...wont even move.

  9. #9
    Junior Member RedMetal's Avatar
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    Well it looks like the vast majority say don't waste your time with a 10bolt..... all i know is i ran 4.30's in mine for 2yrs with numerous 1.75-1.78 60's on 275/40 17" Nitto DR's. The 3.90's have been in the car for about 1.5yrs with low 1.9 60's at over 127mph (N20 assisted) many times and they are still in one piece.

    But I do agree with everybody it is a gamble with a 10bolt.

  10. #10
    Member Fran D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedMetal View Post
    Well it looks like the vast majority say don't waste your time with a 10bolt..... all i know is i ran 4.30's in mine for 2yrs with numerous 1.75-1.78 60's on 275/40 17" Nitto DR's. The 3.90's have been in the car for about 1.5yrs with low 1.9 60's at over 127mph (N20 assisted) many times and they are still in one piece.

    But I do agree with everybody it is a gamble with a 10bolt.
    I'm in the minority with you. Still running a 10-bolt, and will continue to do so until it becomes an overwhelming issue.

  11. #11
    Member MnLS1's Avatar
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    dont even bother, guy who had mine before me, put in 4.10s in 10 bolt (snapped a few months later, then ordered a moser 12 bolt with 4.10's, I wouldnt even waste your time. O ya, when I bought the poor guy hadnt even broke the 12 bolt in yet, I had to change the fluid cause he only put 1000 miles on it!

  12. #12
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Put a cover on it with a girdle which will help. And if you have the money put some $230 axles and c-clip eliminators.

    I have MANY cars that are the 8.5(GN) 10 bolts that are going low 10's and pulling the tires 6-10" out of the gate.

    You should be fine any nitrous?
    Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!

  13. #13
    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    Like said above its a shot in the dark, with my 01 SS i managed to pull off and 11 sec pass on our stock 10 bolt although after a few runs and slicks it started to self destruct. If your gonna spend the cash with popping the rear end open i would wait and save up for a 12 bolt.
    J
    2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....

  14. #14
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sunsetorangess View Post
    Like said above its a shot in the dark, with my 01 SS i managed to pull off and 11 sec pass on our stock 10 bolt although after a few runs and slicks it started to self destruct. If your gonna spend the cash with popping the rear end open i would wait and save up for a 12 bolt.
    J
    I would disagree and say don't waste your money on a 12 bolt when you can get a 9" for cheaper and it is much better.

    http://stores.ebay.com/Quick-Performance-Racing

    Here I'm not the only member that has dealt with these guys.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77845

  15. #15
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    price difference between 12 bolt vs 9 inch rear ends?

  16. #16
    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS2Tuner View Post
    I would disagree and say don't waste your money on a 12 bolt when you can get a 9" for cheaper and it is much better.

    http://stores.ebay.com/Quick-Performance-Racing

    Here I'm not the only member that has dealt with these guys.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77845
    I didn't see one 9" rear for a late model F-body?

  17. #17
    let the F-Bodies roll jimmybling31's Avatar
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    my 10 bolt died after having 140000 miles on it, but it broke from hitting a curb. the 10 bolt can work, but it's a gamble. when they put a new rear end in it they put some stronger gears in it and it feels pretty solit running 1.9 60 foot consistantly

  18. #18
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9t8z28 View Post
    I didn't see one 9" rear for a late model F-body?
    Call them. They will beat anyones price and make the housings in house spo they will do any length tube ends etc.
    They have much more than the shit that is on EBAY.

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