1-2 shift

**derekbuckner1** · 10-24-2011, 08:01 AM

At WOT, its near impossible to find second gear at times. I've seen that some people are running the adj tick master cyl and having good luck with it but haven't seem too many people using it. Should this be the where I start looking?

**Firebirdjones** · 10-24-2011, 08:28 AM

If it's only gear specific then I would lean towards a transmission issue.

If you have this problem at high rpm in all forward gears, then I would lean towards a clutch problem. More than likely not releasing far enough which is common with these non adjustable hydraulic systems. In which case then yes, an adjustable master cylinder such as the Tick would cure that issue.

**derekbuckner1** · 10-24-2011, 08:55 AM

Thanks man. I will occasionally have trouble getting in 1st or reverse. And 2nd is only at high rpm. Haven't had trouble with any other gear though at WOT. hope it's not my tranny but I guess we will see.

**Knight** · 10-24-2011, 10:13 AM

+1 with FBJ. It sounds like a synchro or shift fork issue. Does it grind at all going into gear?

**derekbuckner1** · 10-24-2011, 10:28 AM

Originally Posted by Knight

+1 with FBJ. It sounds like a synchro or shift fork issue. Does it grind at all going into gear?

No grinding in gears. There was only a slight grinding downshifting to 1st a select few times. Smooth through the gears, other than the high rpm shift to 2nd. No grinding, it just doesn't go in gear

**Cutlass** · 10-24-2011, 05:39 PM

Originally Posted by derekbuckner1

I will occasionally have trouble getting in 1st or reverse.

This is usually a clutch release problem. Start by flushing out the clutch hydraulic fluid with some fresh, clean DOT4 brake fluid. That might solve that problem and it might also have an affect on your high rpm shifts also.

**derekbuckner1** · 10-24-2011, 05:44 PM

Originally Posted by Cutlass

Start by flushing out the clutch hydraulic fluid with some fresh, clean DOT4 brake fluid.

I will definitely give that a shot. Thanks

**derekbuckner1** · 04-18-2012, 06:39 AM

Dead thread, but had another question.

Didn't have the issue getting into second for a while but it's doing it again. The shifter moves a good bit when the engine revs, so I want to say my tranny mount is worn or broken. Could that have affected my 1-2 shift? I don't think it's clutch related because it doesn't slip and like said earlier, this is the only time I have trouble finding a gear.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 04-22-2012, 08:43 PM

Do you have an aftermarket shifter with stops? Maybe your stop is adjusted too forward, not allowing it to fully engage.

**derekbuckner1** · 04-22-2012, 08:54 PM

I have an MGW shifter. I know the pro 5.0 has the adjustable stops. Not sure if mine are just set or if it doesn't have any. :\

**tatertot91** · 04-22-2012, 09:52 PM

Did you try flushing the fluid? Like Cutlass mentioned what might be happening is the clutch is not releasing fully during WOT shifts. Does it do the same 2-3? Could be a worn out master/slave

**derekbuckner1** · 04-22-2012, 09:59 PM

No I haven't flushed it yet. I can do so tomorrow but what is the best way to go about doing it?

I haven't noticed it between 2-3, as I don't think I've missed it more than a few times since I installed the new shifter. The few times I did have trouble with 3rd though, it was right after trouble with second.

**tatertot91** · 04-22-2012, 10:13 PM

The bleeder for the trans is pretty far up on the tunnel on the drivers side of the trans. One way i've heard people doing this which to me sounds like a good way to reach it is go underneath and find the bleeder and basically put a dent in the tunnel right in front of the bleeder. That way you can pull the carpet, find said dent from the inside and drill a hole to get to the bleeder from the inside of the car.
Attachment 24032

From here you can bleed the clutch as you have someone feeding clean fluid into the reservoir. Once the fluid comes out clean you're done. I can explain it a little more in detail if you're new to the bleeding process, just let me know

**derekbuckner1** · 04-22-2012, 10:33 PM

Any detail would be appreciated. I thought I had been told something about a syringe I the master cylinder or something. That may be off the wall, but I'm new to bleeding lol

**tatertot91** · 04-22-2012, 11:01 PM

Sounds like the mity vac method which i've heard works well. Tried it myself and didn't really get far with it before i just did it the old fashioned way. I've already mentioned where the bleeder is so basically you pump the clutch pedal a few times and after a few pumps hold the pedal down and open the bleeder. Fluid should then come out of the bleeder. Close the bleeder back so that it's snug and release the clutch pedal. As you do this fluid will be released from the system so you should see the fluid in the reservoir to go down, best thing is to probably get a friend to help you out and keep putting clean fluid into the reservoir as it goes down.

1. Basically it's pump the clutch pedal a few times and then hold the pedal down
2. While the pedal is held down open the bleeder, some fluid will be released from the bleeder
3. Close the bleeder and then you can release the pedal
4. Check the reservoir and add fluid if necessary
5. Repeat 1-4 till the fluid comes out clean
Be sure not to spill any brake fluid on your paint as it is extremely corrosive and will eat up paint quickly

Best way to think about it is a hose with a pump in line (master cylinder), as you pump the old fluid out of the hose you fill it from the top with new fluid. Only thing is you have a cap at the end (bleeder)
New fluid going into the reservoir as old fluid comes out of the bleeder is the best way to completely flush the system.

You could also do like this guy i found on youtube, it will get the fluid cleaner but you will still have crap floating around as you are just mixing the fluid around and throwing new fluid in. This is most likely what you mentioned about a syringe

**az gt eater** · 04-23-2012, 05:56 AM

I cut a hole in my tunnel. Wish I had never done that. You are better off getting a mity vac. I flush mine using the "ranger method" for periodic maintenace. But, for a good initial flush, jack the car up, disconnect the hydr line, then let everything drain. Run a bottle of clean new fluid through the reservoir, letting it drain out the line into a bottle. Then, reconnect, and bleed. How to bleed with the mity vac. Fill the reservoir, put the stepped nozzle on the end of your vac, stick it into the hole in the bottom of res, pull the handle 5 times or so to create suction, pump the cluthc pedal. Pull the vac out of hole, without releasing the pressure. Reinsert the vac, adding fluid if necesary. Pull suction, pump the clutch some more. You will have to pump the clutch by hand for a few cycles. Don't get discouraged. Keep repeating until you have firm pressure. I would take it fro a drive, then, bleed it a couple of more times. Most important thing is to not "release" the vac, you have to pull it out of the reservoir under suction, that way it will pull the air out of the system, not release it back into the system. And, I suggest you get the tick master cylinder, now or as soon as you can. When you take out the factory master, you will see the difference. Bore size, the fact that it is plastic, and also that the line leading to the reservoir is pinched under the u bolt clamp that holds the master to the firewall.

**blackcar** · 04-23-2012, 07:54 AM

Originally Posted by derekbuckner1

Any detail would be appreciated. I thought I had been told something about a syringe I the master cylinder or something. That may be off the wall, but I'm new to bleeding lol

This is what I've done on my Camaro I have now. When I got it the fluid was bad dirty. I just sucked out what was in the reservoir and replaced it with clean. Pumped the clutch a bunch and then repeat until the fluid is not cloudy. Now I keep an eye on it and whenever it gets cloudy I suck it out and replace. I know this is not the best method but it is the easiest and it is getting better.

**Vexzer** · 04-23-2012, 08:03 AM

Originally Posted by derekbuckner1

The shifter moves a good bit when the engine revs, so I want to say my tranny mount is worn or broken. Could that have affected my 1-2 shift? I don't think it's clutch related because it doesn't slip and like said earlier, this is the only time I have trouble finding a gear.

I would get the moving transmission fixed first. Although not obvious as to why, it could be causing the other issues.

I replaced my setup with a stock LS7 Clutch and replacement stock slave cylinder. Everything factory & no installation issues. With over 400 HP I upshift at redline & WOT [not lifting], including 2-3 shift, with no problems.

A couple of years ago it seems like everyone's advice would be to perform the so called "Drill Mod".

**Firebirdjones** · 04-23-2012, 08:34 AM

Yeah, the drill mod is still a worthwhile mod and I recommend it for any car, (It was GM's attempt to bandaid a weak drivetrian and less warranty claims) But I'm not sure that is the cure for what the original poster is experiencing.

**Cutlass** · 04-23-2012, 05:57 PM

Originally Posted by derekbuckner1

The shifter moves a good bit when the engine revs, so I want to say my tranny mount is worn or broken. Could that have affected my 1-2 shift?

F-body, correct. If so, then no it can't. The shifter is bolted directly to the trans and the shift rails and rods are all internal. It doesn't matter how much the trans moves around in the body as far as shifter operation is concerned.