Tahoe/Yukon engine options

**JaycenK** · 05-20-2009, 12:13 PM

Hey guys,
Long story short is I am going to end up getting a tahoe or a yukon and it is going to be high millage so I wanted to know a couple of things.
A. Dose anyone know what engines were used 2000 through 2006?
I need some beef for pulling a boat around to my favorite places
B. What internal mods might I want to do to one of these when I rebuild it?
Nothing wild just looking for a little more power without killing fuel millage or a budget. And can anyone tell me about the engines and trans used through these years?
I'm sure I will think of more questions as they come along buit any help would be great.

**levityinc3** · 05-20-2009, 12:28 PM

I was curious and checked out the Tahoe. I think you'd be happier with an older Suburban. Check this out.

8.1L V8

http://www.cars.com/go/crp/research....=&aff=national

**JaycenK** · 05-20-2009, 12:40 PM

8.1 that was the fuel injected big block 454 wasn't it? Or 502? I have seen the engines on EBay for sale but For 400hp I could get an old small block to run that out of a crate. I have been thinking of a 93 through 99 Tahoe or Yukon as well and I know I can get 400 out of one of those older vortecs but I'm just not that sure how similar these newer 3rd gen truck engines are to a LS1 and if the computers are similar. I really want to get the smaller chassis though. I have had quad cab and double cab pickups for the past 5 years and my wife cant park them for shit. lol

**levityinc3** · 05-20-2009, 12:43 PM

How much are you looking to spend?

http://media.gm.com/us/powertrain/en...LRW_Kodiak.pdf

And check this out.

http://www.cars.com/go/compare/trimC...,USB20CHS112C0

With the massive amount of displacement you'll have more than enough torque to haul anything. A nice tune up would probably be more than enough to accomplish what you need as well.

**JaycenK** · 05-20-2009, 01:04 PM

yea thers a lot of low end torque there on that motor. My boat motot and trailer is not more than 4000lbs though so I don't all of that but I do need the torque on the low end wich may take me back to the 93 through 99's. I will be driving it as a DD so I need to keep fuel eco in mind a bit and there is just no such thing as fuel eco on a big block and that chassis is close to 6klbs V's 5klbs on a tahoe. I noticed they didn't have any data for fuel eco on the big block but I'd love to see what they get out of it.

**levityinc3** · 05-20-2009, 01:12 PM

I found some, it's about the same as the Tahoe. They're very affordable though. I found one with 79k miles for $9k. I wish they put the 8.1 in the 1500.

**JaycenK** · 05-20-2009, 01:18 PM

lol that would be bad ass lol Yea I have seen some older tahoes for around 4 to 8 thousand. all high millage but I saw 1 that was a 97 loaded 4x4, good paint for 3500. just not in my window of opt to do anything yet but I figured I'd start doing the foot work or at least the keyboard work. My lease is comming up next april and I figure I want to leave my self a good 6 months to find it buy it and fix it so I can get through next boating season

**bigrondownhiller** · 05-20-2009, 01:18 PM

If you are towing the first thing I would upgrade is the brakes. I have a 95 tahoe, pre-vortec. It has about 200hp and probably 260tq. It would pull my 5000 boat/trailer fine unless I got to a big hill. I would do brakes once a year because the rotors would warp. After an upgrade they would last a lot longer. My uncle did bring his 30 trailer 200 miles with it and said he had no problem. If I was looking at a new one I would go 2000 and up and get a 5.3 or 6.0. You should have plenty of torque to pull your boat.

**levityinc3** · 05-20-2009, 01:24 PM

Yeah. Do what ya gotta do. I'd say a Tahoe or a Suburban would be great, just whatever you get the best deal on with the lowest miles. Personally I'd prefer the Suburban though. There is no replacement for displacement.

**JaycenK** · 05-20-2009, 01:26 PM

Originally Posted by bigrondownhiller

If you are towing the first thing I would upgrade is the brakes. I have a 95 tahoe, pre-vortec. It has about 200hp and probably 260tq. It would pull my 5000 boat/trailer fine unless I got to a big hill. I would do brakes once a year because the rotors would warp. After an upgrade they would last a lot longer. My uncle did bring his 30 trailer 200 miles with it and said he had no problem. If I was looking at a new one I would go 2000 and up and get a 5.3 or 6.0. You should have plenty of torque to pull your boat.

What did you end up doing as far as brakes? what types of upgrade options are out there for brakes? I have noticed that both generations seem to have little brakes. I have a 07 Tundra with big rotors and quad piston calipers that stop that thing on a dime but my trailer wich is a double axel also has 4 wheel disk surge brakes on it.

**JaycenK** · 05-20-2009, 01:28 PM

Originally Posted by levityinc3

Yeah. Do what ya gotta do. I'd say a Tahoe or a Suburban would be great, just whatever you get the best deal on with the lowest miles. Personally I'd prefer the Suburban though. There is no replacement for displacement.

LOL yea I know but after owning a 02 dodge ram with the 4.7 and a 3.50 rear gear and 20inch rims I know what a dog is LOL That thing couldn't get out of it's own way with nothing behind it

**levityinc3** · 05-20-2009, 01:38 PM

Originally Posted by JaycenK

LOL yea I know but after owning a 02 dodge ram with the 4.7 and a 3.50 rear gear and 20inch rims I know what a dog is LOL That thing couldn't get out of it's own way with nothing behind it

Hahahaha. I wish you luck sir.

**bigrondownhiller** · 05-20-2009, 01:56 PM

Originally Posted by JaycenK

What did you end up doing as far as brakes? what types of upgrade options are out there for brakes? I have noticed that both generations seem to have little brakes. I have a 07 Tundra with big rotors and quad piston calipers that stop that thing on a dime but my trailer wich is a double axel also has 4 wheel disk surge brakes on it.

I did slotted rotors and better pads. They helped a lot. At the time there wasn't that much available. I think baer has slightly larger rotors and brackets to move the caliper away with better pads. My trailer was a doulbe axle and had 2 wheel surge brakes but because of salt water they never worked that great.

**JaycenK** · 05-20-2009, 04:16 PM

Originally Posted by bigrondownhiller

I did slotted rotors and better pads. They helped a lot. At the time there wasn't that much available. I think baer has slightly larger rotors and brackets to move the caliper away with better pads. My trailer was a doulbe axle and had 2 wheel surge brakes but because of salt water they never worked that great.

LOL yea I hear that with the salt water. I have a lake near by and I dunk it everytime I put it in salt so far it has worked good. K thanks for the input

**SEL777** · 05-20-2009, 07:18 PM

I found my 97 Tahoe LT 2 door with 93K for less than 8K. It showed like a truck with 40K, and had an alarm w/remote start, a system with I-Pod connection, HD radio a sub, and some nice 20 inch wheels. It took a while to find the right one, and I jumped as fast as I could once I saw it. As mentioned above the 97-99 had a little more horse power than the earlier years, 250 or 260HP.

Good luck.

**lmyers1** · 05-21-2009, 10:05 AM

Most 96-99 tahoe and suburbans came with the L31 which has GM's Vortec heads. I thought that these heads are essentially the same as a LT1 head but without the reverse cooling of the LT1. I believe the rating of those motors was 260hp and 330ft/lbs. Since the L31 is a gen 1 small block...there are tons of cheap mods that could get you more power. Also during those years there is a 7.4 big block in the 2500 suburban. Honestly, though with the added weight of the motor and chasis...I would probably skip that one. Hope that helps.

**JaycenK** · 05-22-2009, 07:15 AM

Good to know guys thanks for the input. Yea I think the late 90's one's are the way I may go but at the same time it's always about the money. lol

**DAlgozine** · 05-22-2009, 12:33 PM

4,000 pounds is nothing for most of the trucks your talking about. I've towed 6500 plus lbs with my 99 Yukon for years. It was right at the limit. This year I bought a 2007 Tahoe with 5.3. Pulls the same 6500 plus with no problem. I'd get a weight distrubution hitch. The brakes on the older trucks are lame. The brakes on the newer truck are great.

**JaycenK** · 05-22-2009, 01:41 PM

Originally Posted by DAlgozine

4,000 pounds is nothing for most of the trucks your talking about. I've towed 6500 plus lbs with my 99 Yukon for years. It was right at the limit. This year I bought a 2007 Tahoe with 5.3. Pulls the same 6500 plus with no problem. I'd get a weight distrubution hitch. The brakes on the older trucks are lame. The brakes on the newer truck are great.

yea that seems to be the story with the older ones is brakes. Dose anyone know of caliper and rotor upgrade options. Even if I have to change wheel sizes I don't care, I need good brakes for all the idiots that think they can cut me off or jump in front at the last minute. Are there kits out there for useing larger front rotors and calipers?

**NaviDyn** · 05-26-2009, 03:41 AM

I have a 2002 Yukon with a 5.3. I really like the truck. But I don't think the engine is very strong for heavy pulling. I pulled my tool box in a double axle Uhaul trailer for up to 5000 lbs. It was obvious the trailer was there. The power curve is tuned for low end grunt. On full throttle acceleration, you can feel the truck start to wheeze above 4500rpms, just like an old 5.0 Mustang. 327 cubic inches is definetly not 350. Then again, I don't have the tow axles, which is listed as 4.10 in my owner manual. Mine has the 3.73.

I have thought what you do, and was thinking of just switching to the 6.0 and 4L80. I think it can be done with minor fuss.