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Thread: Rough starting
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03-22-2008, 08:35 PM #1
Rough starting
Ok for starters it is a 2000 OBS tahoe with the Vortec 350. The Issue I'm having is when i go to start it after it has been sitting for a while it seems to crank over like it is out of time. It does it so bad you would think the starter is going to be ripped off. after it does start and warms up and you go to restart it it still drags but not as bad as when it is cold. I have checked all pos. and ground connections cleaned them had the battery Alt. and starter tested they are all good. I also checked the fuel PSI. it is holding 55-56 psi. is this enough psi.? If so what else am i missing? As far as the timming without a scan tool I cannot check the base timming. any Ideas?
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03-22-2008, 09:52 PM #2
You're right, you need a scantool to see what's happening. The only thing you can do is pull the cap and rotor to see what it looks like.
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03-23-2008, 10:05 AM #3
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03-23-2008, 06:30 PM #4
8000 miles, I wouldn't think so either. Look at your timing and you might want to see if the starter is going out. Not sure what to tell you because it could be anything. I need to think on this one.
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03-23-2008, 06:47 PM #5
ng
Thanks for all the help so far. Well I'm going to order some tune up parts for it Monday. MSD wires, new plugs, fuel filter Etc. I know some of these things should be ok but it's been a few miles on some of the parts and with rising gas prices it may just help out a bit. As far as the starter goes a buddie of mine works at O'reilys auto parts he hooked a tester up to it and said it checked out good. I'm not sure how that little gadget he used works but I trust him soo we will see. Ah could the crank sensor cause the timming to be backed out at start up? A GM mechanic suggested to me that it might be that. I hate to spend 70 bucks on a part I don't need.
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03-24-2008, 06:39 PM #6
I guess it's possible. It's easy to replace in the bottom of the timing cover and you should be able to pick one up for around $50.00 That's what I paid for the last one I bought. ACDELCO Part # 2133208 {#12596851}
SENSOR,CR/SHF POSN. Get you a scan tool and check to see if the sensor code has gone off first.
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03-25-2008, 04:39 PM #7
Cool thanks for the info. well i got the plugs put in today and ordered new MSD wire they should be here thursday hopefully that will fix it. And from the looks of the plugs and wires they wasn't helping. LOL Oh well one thing at a time. If this doesn't work I am going to have it scanned as bad as I hate to pay someone to work on it other than me.
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03-25-2008, 05:25 PM #8
You'll be suprised what a good tune will do on an L31. I hope it fixes your problem!
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03-27-2008, 05:54 PM #9
uhh shouldnt he have an lm7 in that? i thought the last year for the 350 in a tahoe was in '99.
sorry to be off topic.
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03-27-2008, 06:28 PM #10
Nope, I have (2) 2000 vortec 350's in my garage out of tahoes. I even have the 2000 gauges that go to 120 mph that came with it that I'm putting in my 97.
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03-28-2008, 09:30 AM #11
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03-28-2008, 11:51 AM #12
Very clean! I like the hood because it's the same one I haveon my 97. Did you get if from East Coast Customs or US Body? LOL
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03-28-2008, 05:43 PM #13
was that the last year for that body style? i thought the tahoes were only one year behind the silverado body styles. so is it 2 years?
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03-28-2008, 05:57 PM #14
East coast customs. I have had it for a while i used to have it on a 97 4wd sport. When i ordered it the guy at east coast told me it was the first one that they had made for that body style. It was rough IMO for fiberglass It took countless hours of block sanding to get it straight enough for black. I have actualy grown tired of it, I'm thinking of putting on a cowl hood for a change of pace.
Well now thanks to Jegs I'm having to return my MSD wires. They sent me ls1 style wires. I even told them it was the old style vortec 5.7 not the lsx style 5.3 engine. oh well I must have been dealing with some ricer. LOL
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03-28-2008, 06:02 PM #15
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03-28-2008, 07:10 PM #16
Now that cracks me up!! LOL They told me the same thing when I bought the hood for my 97 and they have the original pictures for their website but I don't know what they did with them. It was very rough also and didn't fit the greatest. I left the holes open in the back of my hood for cooling but cut the front to make my ram air functional. I opened up the ram air inlets and added WS6 inserts.
Here's a pick before I added the cateye grill and 3" exhaust that dumps behind the cab. I sure miss the tips that dumped behind the rear wheels.
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03-29-2008, 04:55 AM #17
I don't know if you got your truck fixed but I did a tune up on my 97 Z71 vortec 350 truck and the new cap was bad the truck wouldn't even start. The caps are the correct-a-cap. 1-3-5-7 on one side of the cap 2-4-6-8 on the other. put the old cap back on and the truck ran fine. You may have current jumping inside your cap? Just something else to look at?
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03-29-2008, 09:20 AM #18
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03-29-2008, 09:29 AM #19
Hey you spoke of holes in the back, mine doesn't have holes. but there is a big gap between the seal and the hood. you can actualy see the engine. maybe they used a different supplier for the hoods? Who knows. Oh and to make mine functional I would have to fabricate a tube or somthing to route the air over to the air box. so I just left it closed and glued in some aluminum gutter guard for the vent screen look.
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03-29-2008, 12:00 PM #20
They might have different suppliers but they told me they made them there and the holes were to keep the hood from expanding. Your ram air looks like it sits a little closer to the front than mine but that could just be the picture. You can't see the engine on mine because of the weather strip that keeps the hood sealed but it isn't very straight. If I were to do it again I might try out USBody because theirs is open underneath an you could build just about any ram ir box and tubing and run it directly to the nose and then pop rivet it to the bottom of the hood. Nice Tahoe, I just put in my 120 mph gauges last night and love the way they look compared to the plain 100 mph gauges.
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