Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 25
Like Tree3Likes

96 Z71 to 04 LQ4 6.0 wiring

This is a discussion on 96 Z71 to 04 LQ4 6.0 wiring within the GM Trucks forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Ok guys I have a 1996 Chevy ecsb. I have put in a 2004 LQ4 6.0 today. Can anyone give ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Oak Grove, LA
    Posts
    10

    96 Z71 to 04 LQ4 6.0 wiring

    Ok guys I have a 1996 Chevy ecsb. I have put in a 2004 LQ4 6.0 today. Can anyone give me some help on the new wiring for this? I have the wiring harness, computer and drive by wire that came with the 6.0. I need to know how to get all this wiring hooked up to get this beast purring. Thanks for the help in advance.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator
    pajeff02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Mansfield, PA
    Posts
    21,576

    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Your best bet is to obtain schematics from the service manuals for both the truck and the LQ4. I do not have either in my collection unfortunately.

  3. #3
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    12,552
    Jeff is right, you'll need schematics for both vehicles and alot of time pinning everyting out.

    Anymore I just buy new custom made harnesses from Howell for the swaps I do. Plug and play, custom tune done, etc..saves me a ton of time.

  4. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Oak Grove, LA
    Posts
    10
    I found a guy that's going to graft the 5.7 harness into the 6.0 harness. He says that it will plug up to the rest of the wires that were left in the truck, I sure hope so. Thanks for the info guys.

  5. #5
    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    3,704

    red
    95 Z28

    I'd rather spend the money with someone like painless and let them deal with the wiring nightmare.
    this post is meant as a joke and in no way should it be interpreted as a serious or meaningful reply. The author of this post cannot be held liable for any damages, both emotional and physical, that may be incurred from the reading of this post. By acknowledging this disclaimer you hereby release the author from any and all liability

  6. #6
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Oak Grove, LA
    Posts
    10
    I called painless but they said that harness is around $900. I found a harness builder grafting the two together for about half the price.

  7. #7
    Super Moderator
    pajeff02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Mansfield, PA
    Posts
    21,576

    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Ensure that he includes wiring up the OBDII port connection for future diagnostics.

  8. #8
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Oak Grove, LA
    Posts
    10
    Thanks for that info pajeff02!

  9. #9
    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    3,704

    red
    95 Z28

    Quote Originally Posted by Dmixon13 View Post
    I called painless but they said that harness is around $900. I found a harness builder grafting the two together for about half the price.

    You're paying for the fact that they've done it many times over and will get it right the first time with all new stuff and weatherpak connectors. No offense to the guy that's doing it for you, but he probably wont get everything right on the first try.

  10. #10
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    12,552
    $900 isn't bad considering it's all brand new, plug and play, no problems.

    Last thing you want is electrical gremlins on a new build that will have you pulling your hair out. The biggest issue with grafting wire harness together is that you are dealing with 15-20 year old wiring that's brittle, corroded, and high resistance issues aren't out of the question. That's assuming your wire guy gets everything connected correctly, that could be another issue all in itself.

    I generally buy the harness, computer with custom tune, new 02's, new MAF, fuel pump setup with regulator, it's own fuse box complete with relays to run fuel pumps and fans, and OBDII light and diagnostic port....and main harness as long as I want it to hide the computer anywhere I please...all from Howell for $1500. This includes wiring in electronic cruise control for the drive by wire setup, and any custom electric fan setup I plan to run. Everything labled and ready to plug in with factory weather packs. It's really the only way to go with these retro swaps, trouble free.

    Best of luck.
    SMWS6TA likes this.

  11. #11
    Senior Member 5.0THIS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    3,704

    red
    95 Z28

    Agreed. For 900$ painless couldn't have taken my money quickly enough.
    SMWS6TA likes this.

  12. #12
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Oak Grove, LA
    Posts
    10
    Ok got another question. Been reading about the inline returnless fuel system. Read that in 2004 GM went to returnless on the Vortec 6000 models. So does this mean this LQ4 does not have a return line and I'm going to have to get a fuel pump with a regulator built into it for this application to work properly?

  13. #13
    Super Moderator
    pajeff02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Mansfield, PA
    Posts
    21,576

    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Good question. You will need a method of regulating fuel pressure irrespective of whether or not it has a return line. You can simply add a separate adjustable regulator in line and set it for 58 p.s.i.

    Like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13301/overview/

    (By way of example only - not saying this is the exact one to use)

  14. #14
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    12,552
    Yep, you'll need to regulate it. I use Howell's regulator, again included in the price I mentioned above was a pump and inline regulator setup.

    There are many versions out there, some expensive and some adjustable. I liked Howell's setup because it was a simple check ball and spring that you mounted inline and regulates a perfect 58 psi.

    Some people like to use the corvette fuel filter that has a regulator built in. I prefer to avoid that because those filter setups are $50-$60 around here. I didn't want that expense every year when I simply wanted to change a fuel filter during regular maintanance intervals. So I used Howell's regulator and then integrated my own 4th generation fuel filter in the system, simple $8 filter is much cheaper to change

  15. #15
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Oak Grove, LA
    Posts
    10
    Well this is my first for all this and I'm def learning some stuff but also finding out how pricy all this can be. So yall are saying there is no return on this motor correct? And the only way to regulate it is with what yall have recommended ( some type of regulator). Another question. Will all the trans cooler and oil cooler lines hook up with this 4L80E like the 4L60E? Also, have to relocate AC compressor to the top so the mount plates could be placed in the appropriate spot. Relocation kits available to use factory compressor or no?
    Last edited by Dmixon13; 07-15-2015 at 08:22 AM.

  16. #16
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    12,552
    Yup, LS swaps definately are not cheap.

    I get my AC relocation brackets from Kwik Performance, about $200 for the kit. It also requires a certain Sanden AC compressor so the original GM won't be used. The relocation kits use the Sandens and there are various locations for the ears to mount them depending on the accessory drive you are starting with, that will dictate which kit you need. Once you have the kit, instructions will give a list of part numbers for Sanden compressors that will fit. Once that's all ironed out then you get to spend money on having new AC lines made

    See how this crap just steam rolls along? It's a domino affect.

    Trans cooler lines are different between 4L60 and 4L80. Connection style is the same quick disconnect but the locations are different between the 2 transmissions. If you are lucky you might be able to tweak the lines without kinking but I've always found it better to start with lines that are made for the transmission being used first, then work with it. I just buy them at the local dealer.

  17. #17
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Oak Grove, LA
    Posts
    10
    Say I went without the AC for a while, don't just pull all the AC components out?

  18. #18
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    12,552
    You certainly don't have to have AC if you don't want it. That's up to you. It's not a necessity.

    You can take off the factory stuff from the engine and just not run it, and if later you decide to make it work, the Kwik Performance relocation kit can easily be added later down the road. It mounts right in front of the passenger side head.

    Also those kits require a new belt that runs everything, rather than the factory setup that has the AC belt seperate. The kit will give you the size in the instructions, so that's another $40 expense when the time comes.

    When it's all over, relocation kit, sanden compressor, new lines, new belt, you'll have about $600 in that alone depending on what your local shop charges to custom make AC lines. Then a new dryer, R134 conversion if it's an R12 system, suck it down, charge it up. Another ~$200.

    Depends on if it's worth that much to you, to stay cool.

  19. #19
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    12,552
    Here's a pic of how it would look.


  20. #20
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Oak Grove, LA
    Posts
    10
    When I get this thing running I will only have the exhaust manifolds on it. Will it be safe to drive to the muffler shop to have the exhaust put on or do I need to pull it? Have heard just don't hammer for risk of blowing out seals and to pull it. What do yall recommend?

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Wiring
    By legacyy21 in forum Stereo and Electronics
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 04-27-2011, 07:42 AM
  2. NEED 1/0 wiring kit
    By claytonr in forum Stereo and Electronics
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-19-2008, 05:50 PM
  3. NEED 1/0 wiring kit
    By claytonr in forum Parts Wanted / Trade
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 02-19-2008, 10:46 AM
  4. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-16-2007, 10:41 AM
  5. Ftp Wiring Help!!
    By rx7nam in forum General Help
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-22-2007, 03:32 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •