1986 C10 lwb 5.3/4l60e swap
This is a discussion on 1986 C10 lwb 5.3/4l60e swap within the GM Trucks forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; Hey guys, I'm doing a 5.3/4l60e swap in a 1986 c10 lwb. I got the running gear from a 2002 ...
01-13-2015, 06:54 PM #1
- Join Date
- Jan 2015
- Jacksonville, Fl
- 1987 Mustang
1986 C10 lwb 5.3/4l60e swap
I'm doing a 5.3/4l60e swap in a 1986 c10 lwb. I got the running gear from a 2002 1500. I plan on keeping it fuel injected and have some questions about the fuel system. I want to keep the dual pump set up and am wondering how. Would it be best to run an inline pump after selector to a corvette fuel filter. Everywhere that I have read says to upgrade to 87 tanks because they are internally baffled. Do I still need them if I plan on using a inline pump? Any info would be great. Thanks in advance
01-14-2015, 04:58 AM #2
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Madison, WI
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
- 2001 Silverado Z71
So you're saying you have dual gas tanks and a fuel tank selector valve to choose which tank you want to use? I think that could work ok as long as you follow typical inline pump install guidelines. ie away from heat, lower then the tank, filter BEFORE the pump, mount close to the tank, and most inline pumps ( if not all) are designed to be gravity feed fuel from the bottom of the tank. If you try to siphon out the top like the OE setup, it won't work well or at all.-------------------------------------Kooks 1 7/8" race headers, Kooks ORY, Borla catback, Nitto 555R, LS6 intake manifold, Shaner S3 ported stock throttle body, SLP lid, smooth bellows, JAAM Ram Air kit, Elite Engineering catch can, LS6 valley cover, EGR and AIR deleted, Frost tune, and Simpson Racing child car seat in the back. 13.2 @ 108MPH
01-14-2015, 06:22 AM #3
curious as to how that would work as well..be it twin 'vette filter/regulator assemblies, or a junction between both tanks and one filter/reg setup.
01-21-2015, 06:45 AM #4
I have a truck with dual tanks. There is a switch valve in front of the tanks on the frame where the fuel lines from both tanks come together.
If you want to run an external pump and regulator you'll have to place them in front of this junction if you want to keep the dual tanks functional.
There are some problems with this though. Electric pumps aren't good suckers, and when placing the pump in front of the switching valve you are starting to get pretty far away from the tanks, one more than the other. Also I'm not a big fan of the inline pumps anyway. They have to supply 58 psi to that LS engine, and those pumps really run hot when used for extended periods of time. I was generally getting only 6-8,000 miles out of them before they bit the dust and left me stranded with no warning.
Short answer, I don't run external pumps anymore. It's in tank pumps only otherwise I refuse to do the swap for people. There is a reason the OE manufactures put them in the tank. They'll go 100k miles without fuss. It's more expensive but the dependability and longevity far outweighs the cost. I don't want my name on stuff that's going to leave people stuck so I recommend spending the money and do it right.
With that said, if you want the dual tanks, it gets expensive to run a pair of internal pumps, that can be switched on when the tanks are switched from one to the other. It can be done, but it's more hassle and expense to do correctly. In the end I would suggest ditching the dual tanks, run a larger single tank with an in tank pump and simplify things that way with one less pump to worry about. In my opinion that's the best, easiest, cheapest solution and it eliminates many other potential problems.
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