Compressor Install Question

**pajeff02** · 11-12-2009, 03:43 PM

I finally broke down and bought an 80 gallon Ingersoll Rand air compressor a few weeks ago. The old Craftsman compressor just could not keep up with my blast cabinet. My original plan was to install it in my lower garage, which is about 60' from the house.

When I built the lower garage, I buried 3/4" black pipe and have it already run between the garage and into the basement. This way, I can work noise free in the upper garage, which is attached to the house, and have air available everywhere.

My problem: The lower garage is at a lower elevation than the house (hence "lower garage"). I am therefore pushing the air uphill several feet to get to the house. This means any condensation will want to run back down to the lower garage. I also will not have a very long run, maybe 6-7 feet, from the compressor to the line where it goes through the floor to a depth of about 4' (below frost line). Chances are the air will be too hot at this point to release all of its moisture even if I install a dryer here.

I was not smart enough at the time to think about this and did not install any sort of moisture trap, or way to vent the line underground. Now I am wondering about moisture accumulation in the line -- when the air hits the buried pipe any water vapor is going to condense almost immediately. Will the air flow be enough to push the water up the line to a dryer/separator in my basement, or am I going to end up with problems? My only other option is to install the compressor in the basement, which is where my Craftsman currently is located.

**Cutlass** · 11-17-2009, 04:47 PM

I only thing I can think of that would work is an Air Dryer System right next to your compressor like these:

**pajeff02** · 11-17-2009, 05:21 PM

I have seen dryers in catalogues for paint shops --- e x p e n s i v e!

I actually read a little bit more since my post. The recommended installation setting does not want temps below 30 degrees. That means the lower garage is out as I do not heat it on a regular basis. I have since moved the compressor to the basement where it will stay at least 55 degrees and be centrally located. I should have thought this through a bit more when I built the garage 8 years ago... Thank you for the reply.

**croslod** · 11-18-2009, 05:01 PM

My compressor is in a shed next to my shop that is not heated and i have sanded and painted several vehicles with no major issues, once it comes into the shop it t's and go's up with a drain that go's down. I have three outlets in the shop and only have a water seperator and a particulate filter on the line i use for painting and my sand blaster. when i use it a lot i have to drain the the compressor, other than that no issues and it's nice and quiet in the shop

**pajeff02** · 11-18-2009, 05:35 PM

Originally Posted by croslod

My compressor is in a shed next to my shop that is not heated and i have sanded and painted several vehicles with no major issues, once it comes into the shop it t's and go's up with a drain that go's down. I have three outlets in the shop and only have a water seperator and a particulate filter on the line i use for painting and my sand blaster. when i use it a lot i have to drain the the compressor, other than that no issues and it's nice and quiet in the shop

Is it plumbed with black pipe?

**bills98ta** · 11-19-2009, 03:06 AM

Use water seperators out of the compressor, then a ball valve, then add a tee before it goes into the floor, with a ball valve for a dump. With the line charged, shut off the compressor valve, then open the tee valve. the line presure will blow back up & out.
My theory...

**pajeff02** · 11-19-2009, 03:56 AM

Originally Posted by bills98ta

Use water seperators out of the compressor, then a ball valve, then add a tee before it goes into the floor, with a ball valve for a dump. With the line charged, shut off the compressor valve, then open the tee valve. the line presure will blow back up & out.
My theory...

My understanding is that it is better to position the separator some distance from the compressor to allow water vapor time to condense in the cool metal piping. I agree with everything else and have planned for moisture bleeds in the layout.

**croslod** · 11-24-2009, 04:45 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Is it plumbed with black pipe?

I have short pieces of black pipe in the beggining, less than 2 feet ,the rest is all pvc. When it comes into the shop it t's with a 3' piece going down with a drain and then goes up to the rafters and rises all the way(about 3'' so any water goes back to first drain) till it gets to the center where it splits and goes to three seperate drops each with a drain at the bottom and the tap comming from 3' up so the water goes to the bottom, just drain them with high use or every so often.

**pajeff02** · 11-24-2009, 04:50 PM

Originally Posted by croslod

I have short pieces of black pipe in the beggining, less than 2 feet ,the rest is all pvc. When it comes into the shop it t's with a 3' piece going down with a drain and then goes up to the rafters and rises all the way(about 3'' so any water goes back to first drain) till it gets to the center where it splits and goes to three seperate drops each with a drain at the bottom and the tap comming from 3' up so the water goes to the bottom, just drain them with high use or every so often.

Do you do any sandblasting with your setup?

I spent the last two nights running my piping. I just need to assemble the dryer, pressure regulator, and drain piping in the upper garage and can then get the compressor bolted down and wired.

Thanks for the replies!

**croslod** · 11-24-2009, 05:33 PM

Yep did a set of white spokes for a horse trailer about a month ago, its a pod type from snap-on that i use outside, waited till next day for everything to drain down and drained comp and all the lines.

**PontiacFan** · 11-26-2009, 09:35 AM

Couple suggestions, ...
1) Drip Leg Drain.
http://www.norgren.com/document_reso...20products.pdf
See representation at the bottom of the first page for reference. Mounted at the bottom of a u-shaped section of pipe or the lowest section of pipe, so condensate will run back into it when pressure is off.

2) You can buy a nice refrigerated dryer unit like pictured above for anywhere between $1k-2k. Money well spent for anyone using air pressure on a daily basis.
http://www.belairtech.net/

www.transair-usa.com is a good resource for air piping. (I actually sell this product to big industrial sites down to the local garage guy.)

**pajeff02** · 11-26-2009, 09:49 AM

Originally Posted by PontiacFan

Couple suggestions, ...
1) Drip Leg Drain.
http://www.norgren.com/document_reso...20products.pdf
See representation at the bottom of the first page for reference. Mounted at the bottom of a u-shaped section of pipe or the lowest section of pipe, so condensate will run back into it when pressure is off.

2) You can buy a nice refrigerated dryer unit like pictured above for anywhere between $1k-2k. Money well spent for anyone using air pressure on a daily basis.
http://www.belairtech.net/

www.transair-usa.com is a good resource for air piping. (I actually sell this product to big industrial sites down to the local garage guy.)

^^ Looks like some high end stuff there... wow.

I have condensate drains at the main line inlet and one in each garage. I also made sure there is some slope in the lines to allow gravity to do its job. Each outlet is mounted higher than the drain to help keep water out of my tools and blast cabinet. I also mounted an additional separator on the cabinet to ensure that most of the moisture is removed. Hope to finalize the install tomorrow and fire it up.

**Old Buzzard** · 12-15-2009, 12:13 PM

Here's a diagram, showing some plumbing ideas...
I've been using thier tools for many yrs... ALWAYS, great service.
http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/ai...ng-diagram.pdf

**leon phelps** · 12-24-2009, 02:46 PM

growing up in a tire shop, if you are just using cfm's and not painting then just put several traps in. Also, when the air cools down there will be condensation. I would leave ball valves slightly cracked so air leaks out with the condensation. the compressor may turn on one extra time a day but so is life.

Also be sure to do the maintenance on the compressor. Oil and air filters are a must for longevity. I have some that are 50 years old.

**pajeff02** · 12-24-2009, 06:53 PM

Originally Posted by Old Buzzard

Here's a diagram, showing some plumbing ideas...
I've been using thier tools for many yrs... ALWAYS, great service.
http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/ai...ng-diagram.pdf

Spent a small fortune on their separators and regulators, mounting brackets, and such. I followed the diagrams/instructions and sloped the line with risers to my outlets and drains on down pipes. I agree - nice stuff and always great service from TP.

Originally Posted by leon phelps

growing up in a tire shop, if you are just using cfm's and not painting then just put several traps in. Also, when the air cools down there will be condensation. I would leave ball valves slightly cracked so air leaks out with the condensation. the compressor may turn on one extra time a day but so is life.

Also be sure to do the maintenance on the compressor. Oil and air filters are a must for longevity. I have some that are 50 years old.

I drain the lines every time I use air for any length of time and always finish by dumping the tank drain when I shut down. Maintenance is key -- you got that right.