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M151A1 Military Mini-Muscle

This is a discussion on M151A1 Military Mini-Muscle within the Classic Muscle forums, part of the Vehicle Specific category; I don't recall the exact numbers, but the engine makes maybe 65 h.p. and tops out at 55 m.p.h. It's ...

  1. #21
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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    I don't recall the exact numbers, but the engine makes maybe 65 h.p. and tops out at 55 m.p.h. It's going to be a real terror on the street.

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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    I finally received the engine at my garage to start working on it. So far, all I know is that it rolls over and the flywheel was easy to remove in order to mount it to my engine stand.



    My brother has been working on it and has replaced most of the rotted sheet metal, in addition to repairing the partial reassembly that had been started on it. If you look back in this thread, you'll see that the Jeep was originally "X" cut into pieces as required by the military to get it off base when it was sold.

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    How is the project coming along ?
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  4. #24
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    It still doesn't look like much, but he is really getting the body about complete. His company is now making replacement panels and selling them at shows.

    Here's a link to a thread on a military vehicle site that shows some of the products he has designed and that are now being sold: G503 Military Vehicle Message Forums • View topic - CMD Body Panels for M 151

  5. #25
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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Fabrication work continues on the MUTT. My brother has done some amazing work duplicating the replacement body panels as closely as possible. In all honesty, he probably would have been further ahead starting with a pile of fresh steel and just building the thing from scratch.

    I began tear down on the engine a few days ago. So far, other than some rust in the cooling passages and a broken bolt on the exhaust manifold, everything has come apart quite easily. Next step will be to clean the block up a bit before pulling the distributor, oil filter adapter and oil pan. If I understand this thing, it is a Hercules 4 cylinder industrial engine. It runs a gear driven camshaft down low in the block, in place of a fuel pump there is a vacuum pump on the passenger side of the engine (they are equipped with in-tank electric fuel pumps), there is no harmonic balancer, the entire ignition system is sealed from moisture, it has a very simple log style exhaust manifold, and the entire engine appears constructed for durability and easy maintenance. Here are some pics of the tear down so far:








  6. #26
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    We continued work stripping the block down last night. Started by washing the exterior down with brake cleaner while scrubbing it with an old toothbrush. No real surprises and the cylinder walls look like they will clean up with a simple honing. I'll have to measure things up to be sure but if this is the original engine to the chassis it only has around 7,500 miles on the clock. Only thing giving me an issue is the oil pump. We removed the distributor, the oil pickup tube and bolts that secure the pump housing to the block and it won't budge. I'll go at it again later this weekend as it should simply pull out of the recess in the block and spin the pump as it disengages from the drive gear on the camshaft.








    The engine has a side cover and you can see the lifters in their bores at the bottom of the cavity. I will be removing the front pulley to access the timing gear cover next. Kind of neat the in place of hexagonal bolt head, the oil pan, side cover, timing gear cover and many other things are simply slot head screws.




    Other than the usual carbon buildup on top of the pistons and minor surface rust at the top of the bores this all looks to be in good shape.





    Again, assuming this is a low mile engine, the valves do not appear recessed into the head. The camshaft lobes and rocker tips appear to also be in good shape.


  7. #27
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    The block is completely stripped now with the exception of the cam bearings, dipstick tube, a block drain that may need destructive removal, and the identification plate (which will have to come off if we hot tank it). Everything looks real good inside the engine and as there was absolutely zero ridge at the top of the bores the pistons came out easily.

    After marking all of the rod and main caps, I removed the rod caps and slipped rubber vacuum caps over the bolts to protect the rod journals. Using a rubber mallet and a piece of wood, I tapped the pistons down and out the top of the bores. The caps were then reinstalled for storage with the bearings left in place. For the most part, there was almost zero wear and no scoring on the bearings. The #3 and #4 rod bearings were just showing into the copper at the very top, so we'll install new bearings on reassembly.











    With the pistons out, I then removed the front pulley and timing cover. As with the oil pan, the cover was secured by slot head screws. I had a bit of a fight with the timing cover which appears to be a cast aluminum piece. It was hung up on a locating pin on the driver side and I had to carefully work it a bit at a time so as not to break it. I probably spent 15 minutes removing it but no damage was done so all is good. As noted, the camshaft is gear driven of the crank.




    Next up, I removed the three (3) main caps and then lifted the crank from the engine. Again, the bearings and crank journals all looked real good and there were no sign of wear or scoring.










  8. #28
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    With the crank out of the way, it was time to remove the camshaft. Having some room to work, I was able to break the oil pump free of the block and remove it. The camshaft is held in place by a retainer plate at the front of the block. There are two (2) bolts that I accessed through the gear and upon removal the camshaft easily slid out the front of the block.





    The lifters are non-hydraulic solid units that have a unique appearance to them. These were pushed up (actually down as the engine is upside down) through the cavity behind the side cover and stored in a piece of cardboard along with the push rods to keep them in order.






    The block is now essentially bare and I am awaiting a decision from my brother on whether we hot tank it or attack the rust in the cooling passages with some "home brew". He'll also have to pick up some parts and after a simple cylinder hone, along with some measuring and a close up inspection, I'll begin the reassembly process.




  9. #29
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    We decided to go with "home brew" to clean out the rust in the cooling passages. It will be a mixture of muriatic acid, oxalic acid and water that will be circulated through the block via a submersible pump in a 5 gallon bucket. We are going to reinstall the head and fabricate a plate with a fitting on it to cover the cavity where the water pump mounts. We can then pump the solution in through the fittings installed either on the head, water pump cavity or block drain and out another fitting. In addition, we can rotate the block from time to time to ensure that all interior surfaces receive a proper bath. Hopefully, this will all happen sometime this weekend.

  10. #30
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    The oxalic acid should be in today as it was not delivered on Friday. Mr brother fabricated the water pump block off plate and TIG welded a fitting into it to attach our pump hose. He had another head with the sensor installed in the water jacket port so I removed that and will match it up with a fitting today at either Tractor Supply or Lowe's. Looks like we should be ready to try this either tonight or later this week.

  11. #31
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    1998 PONTIAC TA

    Looks like that engine was made to be abused. Gear drive cam and a super thick crankshaft.
    1998 Pontiac TA, stock heads, FAST 90, FAST 90 TB, FLP LT, off road y-pipe with cat delete, flow master muffler, comp cams 54-457-11 223/231-610/617-112 LSA, Pro charger D1SC with FMIC @ 8psi, FROST tune, VIG 3200 stall, built 4l60e, snow meth kit, MOSER 12 bolt 373 gears, Derale 13900 trans cooler.

  12. #32
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    Abused... and easily serviced in the field. The simplicity of this thing amazes me. The crank is stout, however, the large webs between the front and rear rod journals are actually hollow.

    Last night I prepped the engine for its internal acid bath. I started by running a thread chaser through the head bolt holes and also the water pump and thermostat bolt holes. I then blew out all the cavities in the cooling system in both the block and the head to remove any loose rust and debris.



    The deck, head surface and old steel shim head gasket were carefully scraped and cleaned. Around each water port I applied just a bit of Permatex to ensure a good seal.



    I then laid on the head gasket, applied more Permatex and then set the head in place. Utilizing the pattern in the service manual, I torqued the head bolts in steps to 10 ft.lbs. below their intended torque spec so as not to stress anything.



    This is a shot of inside the water jacket. The top hole is where the thermostat, housing and upper radiator hose attach and the lower hole is the water pump cavity.



    I secured the fabricated plate over the water pump cavity that we will use to either pump or evacuate the cleaning solution. We'll have another plate installed over the thermostat hole before beginning the process. There is a brass nipple I picked up at Tractor Supply installed in the back of the head and that will be our other inlet/outlet. As the solution pumps through the cooling passages we will rotate the engine on the stand to ensure that there are no air pockets and that all interior surfaces are bathed.

    Last edited by pajeff02; 02-23-2016 at 04:24 AM.

  13. #33
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    Our witch's brew of water, muriatic acid, and oxalic acid worked wonders on the cooling system passages. We had to fabricate one more block off plate for the thermostat housing cavity before flushing the block and head. A piece of plate steel was sized and drilled using the thermostat housing as a template for the holes. A bead of Ultra Black Permatex acted as a seal and we were leak free throughout the flushing process.



    The concoction consisted of 2 gallons of warm tap water, 1 gallon of muriatic acid, and a half-pound of oxalic acid (comes in a crystal like powder). Both of these are readily available at most hardware stores and big box stores like Lowe's and Home Depot. Muriatic acid is regularly utilized to clean concrete and masonry. Oxalic acid is also commonly referred to as "wood bleach". You always slowly add acid to water and never the other way around as it reacts as you mix it. And of course, safety first as this stuff is nasty!





    We used a small submersible pump sourced from Tractor Supply that is intended for small ponds and landscaping water features. The pump would not run when I first plugged it in, so like any good mechanic I whacked it and it started running just fine. We made sure the pump was submerged in the water before adding the acid. The hoses are simply a chemical rated reinforced nylon hose also sourced from Tractor Supply. With the engine upside down we plugged in the pump and started the flushing process.





    The fluid quickly turned from clear to a yellowish color and then became darker as the process continued. We ran the pump for around 15 minutes with the engine in this position and then shut everything down and carefully rotated the engine on its side before continuing.



    We continued to flush and rotate the engine in various positions to ensure that all passages were flushed and that no air pockets remained. As we rotated the engine we had to raise our bucket up for the hoses to reach and to ensure that the pump remained submerged.





    As most of the nastiness would be at the bottom of the cooling passages we ran the pump for over a half hour with the engine upright. We finished with the engine canted to the left and then carefully lowered the bucket and allowed the solution to drain out. A bucket of fresh water was then pumped through the engine and we added baking soda to the water to neutralize the remaining acid. Unfortunately, the reaction between the acid and baking soda created bubbles and this caused the pump to cavitate a bit.

    Finally, we removed the bucket and used a garden hose to fully flush out all the acid while we rotated the engine around one more time. Each time we rotated the engine we would get a little color and once the water ran clear we changed positions. Baking soda was also utilized to neutralize the acid in our two buckets for disposal. We removed the block off plates and found that the solution worked really well. The head passages looked almost new and we had just a little bit of sludge in the bottom of the block that almost appears to be an oily goo. This will be flushed out with solvent when we finish cleaning the block.



    Last edited by pajeff02; 02-26-2016 at 04:57 AM.

  14. #34
    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    Looks awesome Jeff. I think you will be fine with what ever residue is left inside the block. The minor bits of corrosion and junk left over wont affect anything.

  15. #35
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    I agree. My brother wanted to run another batch of solution through it, but after looking at it again I think things look just fine. Especially for being 45 plus years old and having Lord knows what run (or not run) in it.

  16. #36
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    After running the head through the parts washer, I removed the valves for a more thorough cleaning and inspection. We will also replace the valve seals and springs upon reassembly.











    The valves and seats all appear to be in good shape so this should be a simple rehab.

  17. #37
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    We cleaned up and inspected the valves and used a variety of wire wheels to clean up the head. We'll run the head through the parts washer again and then I will lap the valves to ensure that the seats are all good before a final cleaning and reassembly with new springs and seals.

    Here are some before and afters of the valves. There was quite a bit of combustion chamber residue on the face of the exhaust valves. Interestingly, the accumulations were in a circular pattern around the perimeter of the face. I used a razor blade to scrape this off and then a brass brush and brass wheel to finish the job. The intake valves had a buildup of oil and/carbon on the back side that brushed off pretty easily.









    I used a fine steel cup wheel in my die grinder to clean the combustion chambers and ports. In this pic, the two chambers on the left are untouched and the two on the right have been cleaned.


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    I have thought about it, if that counts?

    Actually, just cleared out a spot in the garage last weekend to start on re-assembly. I ordered all the tools I would need for this back when it came apart and have been itching to use them. Have to start with a quick hone of the cylinders and then give the block a good scrubbing. I swiped a large heavy dish tub from the office (which was previously a restaurant) and will probably set the block down into that to keep the mess contained.

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    Thought about it. Sounds like my bird
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